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M3Mitch, if you like reduced loads and come across some SR4759 at a deal, don't pass it up. It's very bulky but in a case like a 3006, it's ideal as you'll end up with high loading densities. I load 19.0 grs of it in military brass with a 147/150 gr bullet on top and it will shoot in a hole. That's about a 70% load density. Recoil is so light I use it for the Boy Scouts that I teach how to reload. They love it when the 03 Springfields come out and they get to sit down with their loads and and shoot targets. Recoil is about that of a 222 Rem. For a Springfield 03, raise the back sight to 300 yds for a dead on 100 yds impact. It's extremely accurate even out of a pitted 03 2 groove barrel. You'll never know anybody shot the rifle either as it's incredibly clean burning. If you shoot any hand cannons, it works fabulous as the burn rate is right with H4227 but you get far better loading density. The 19.0 gr load will hunt reliably to about 150 yds even with FMJ bullets. Be aware though, the old cans are only a half pound as that's all that will fit in it. Some of the newer cans will be a full pound. I never pay over 7 bucks a pound for it so it's also a cheap date. Downside, it will not go thru a powder measure. It's too bulky for that and will bridge in the measure. Look to a Lee Dipper Set to solve the problem. And if you've never use a Dipper Set, you need one. Takes a little technique but once you've gotten over the learning curve, you can throw dead on loads every time. Most benchresters are volume loaders now and not weight loaders.
I am on the hunt for some SR4759. Should have bought a bunch when it first came back on the market several years ago, but like an idiot I assumed it was back to stay.
I definitely load by volume, I have some Lee dippers but have not used them much. I mostly use the powder measure that came with my Dillon, some old Lyman 55s, and for big "log" powders an antique-style measure, the proper name escapes me right now, but it has a sliding transfer chamber and a calibrated brass tube that the powder discharges into that you use to pour through a funnel. I think this measure will work for SR 4759, but have not tried it. But you are right, anyone who thinks individually weighed charges are worth doing in a rifle should load up 10 rounds with a certain weight of powder, then load 10 more with say one more grain. See if they don't all shoot into one group. A decent powder measure used with decent technique will load within a grain if we are talking 35 to 50 grain charges.
IIRC SR 4759 was actually formulated for reduced velocity 30-06 loads to test bullet penetration of helmets, at velocities that simulated longer ranges.
The Lee is a good choice for your first press IMHO. I will suggest you spring for carbide dies if you can possibly swing that. In my other post I mention some of the presses I own and use. The Lee still gets used. It's my "go to" press if I want say just about 50 to 100 rounds loaded. The Dillon will load a "big order" faster but my Dillon does not have the current production's interchangeable heads, so it takes a while to set it up from one caliber to another. The Lee changes calibers in a few seconds if I have them both set up on turret inserts.
You will probably graduate to a Dillon Square Deal if you shoot a lot.
Commercial cast lead bullets are available for both calibers. Some commercial 9mm bullets are too small in diameter for some barrels out there. Or you can go "whole hog" eventually and start casting your own. Both these rounds are great cast shooters, but the 9 as I said you have to make sure you are getting a "fat" enough bullet for your particular barrel. Google "Cast Bullet Association" and take a look at the forum there, for some discussion on that. You may end up buying a lighter bullet intended for .38 Special/.357 Magnum in order to get the diameter you need. Or your 9 may work fine with a .356 bullet. But if you get leading with a .356 diameter, my first guess is you need a .357 or .358 diameter.
You want to make damn sure that with the 9mm particularly you size the brass enough and/or (I prefer and!) apply at least a taper crimp such that the bullet will not push back into the case when feeding. You want to check the first few rounds by pushing against the edge of a table or such, and make an honest effort to push that bullet back, using hand pressure. If you are one of the guys who can bench press say 450#, OK, you may not want to make a maximum effort. But you want to be sure the bullet won't push back and in doing so jump pressure out the kazoo. You don't want the .45 bullets pushing back either, but you have a lot more leeway there, the case is bigger and emptier, and the big bullet is harder to push back, usually.
I prefer to load on turret or progressive such that I can dispense exactly one "dose" of powder into the case, then put a bullet in and seat it. Good concentration will help you avoid cases empty of powder (which frequently stick the bullet in the barrel) and double charges (which can bulge or even blow up the barrel).
Final thought: EYE PROTECTION! Both while loading and while shooting. And welcome to the club!
Thanks! I will definitely get a progressive loader down the line, but for now an auto-indexing turret press should cover most of my needs. I also plan to use carbide dies. They only run about $40 from Midway so the cost is easily absorbed.
I don't really see myself shooting cast bullets. 90% of my shooting is done in an indoor range that doesn't allow their use so that is probably out for me. Of course, they don't allow reloads either so I'll be breaking that rule anyways.
I reload. I do check the case on rifle necked rounds. Not too much on straight case pistol. I may still have some reloaded rounds I bought many years ago before I reloaded but I don't buy reloads when I reload. I buy Varget and 55 gr bullets for practice.
I'm going to be dipping my toes into the reloading pool soon. Going to start with a Lee turret press so I can reload my 45 ACP and 9mm rounds.
Regardless of the brand, reloading equipment are a good investment that will pay for itself in no time.
I started reloading back in 1986 and back then I had the RCBS basic single stage press and all the other components, like trimmer, scale, etc. Since then, I've gotten more guns and more reloading equipment. I still like the single stage press, I bought 2 other RCBS single stage presses since I started, and in December of last year, I got the RCBS Rock Chucker, which works great. I use an RCBS electronic Chargemaster scale, which automatically dispenses the gun powder with exceptional precision, I use that for the loads on rifle ammo, and the RCBS Uniflow powder measure for pistol ammo.
I thought I'd start a thread on it. Question one, have you bought store brand reloads and noticed the OCL is all over the road? I've had some not even fit in the mag for .223.
I don't recall ever buying store brand reloads. Bullet seating depth is critical for both accuracy and feeding, and in your case, to ensure the .223 ammo fits in the magazine correctly. I'm not sure how the store-bought ammo you got was reloaded, but it wouldn't surprise me that the Overall Cartridge Length is not consistent, and I'd say they most likely didn't trim the cases.
I have an AR-15 and I believe the OCL specs for the semi-auto "Service Rifle" are slightly shorter than the ones for a bolt action rifle in the same caliber.
Regardless of the brand, reloading equipment are a good investment that will pay for itself in no time.
I started reloading back in 1986 and back then I had the RCBS basic single stage press and all the other components, like trimmer, scale, etc. Since then, I've gotten more guns and more reloading equipment. I still like the single stage press, I bought 2 other RCBS single stage presses since I started, and in December of last year, I got the RCBS Rock Chucker, which works great. I use an RCBS electronic Chargemaster scale, which automatically dispenses the gun powder with exceptional precision, I use that for the loads on rifle ammo, and the RCBS Uniflow powder measure for pistol ammo.
I also use the Mec reloader for shotgun ammo.
That's a nice setup there!
I bought this book a couple months ago and have slowly been building my knowledge base since then. I'll probably start buying bits and pieces to get started. For instance, I have several hundred empty cases of 9mm and 45ACP ammo that needs to be cleaned. I'll probably get a rotary tumbler this week and get started there.
I don't recall ever buying store brand reloads. Bullet seating depth is critical for both accuracy and feeding, and in your case, to ensure the .223 ammo fits in the magazine correctly. I'm not sure how the store-bought ammo you got was reloaded, but it wouldn't surprise me that the Overall Cartridge Length is not consistent, and I'd say they most likely didn't trim the cases.
I have an AR-15 and I believe the OCL specs for the semi-auto "Service Rifle" are slightly shorter than the ones for a bolt action rifle in the same caliber.
What's the relationship between case length, and overall cartridge length?
True, I think Magnum Mike's point was that the commercial reloads he had experience with had varying overall loaded length, too long can prevent chambering or feeding, too short gives more freebore before the bullet meets the rifling than optimal.
They also had varying *case* length, this can result in inconsistent crimping, if one is roll crimping.
Yeah, I knew the answer. I was just curious what he would say.
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