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Old 10-28-2012, 09:58 AM
 
3,244 posts, read 7,449,469 times
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Not to entirely derail this thread, but there are options besides chlorine to keep a pool sanitary...
What we did was put in a large ozonator (Prozone was the manufacturer, if I recall correctly), generating O3, and then using hydrogen peroxide (dirt cheap, in bulk). No odor/smell, though H2O2 at 35% is rather nasty to deal with, no worse than chlorine and brake fluid

Just food for thought. Also worked very well for hot tubs.
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:41 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheyDee View Post
This is a fabulous website, which will teach you everything you ever wanted to know about pool maintenance and then some.
Yup. They've also either created or promote The Pool Calculator which I use all the time. It's great to just play with the numbers and see how that affects the water balance.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:12 PM
 
Location: the AZ desert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon3475 View Post
Yup. They've also either created or promote The Pool Calculator which I use all the time. It's great to just play with the numbers and see how that affects the water balance.
Jason Lion wrote it. It's helped me keep my pool crystal clear for years.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:37 PM
 
Location: the AZ desert
5,035 posts, read 9,225,324 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparkle928 View Post
Not to entirely derail this thread, but there are options besides chlorine to keep a pool sanitary...
What we did was put in a large ozonator (Prozone was the manufacturer, if I recall correctly), generating O3, and then using hydrogen peroxide (dirt cheap, in bulk). No odor/smell, though H2O2 at 35% is rather nasty to deal with, no worse than chlorine and brake fluid

Just food for thought. Also worked very well for hot tubs.
The biggest issue with an ozone generator (IMO), is they're not stand-alone systems, meaning you need a sanitizer anyway, (i.e. chlorine, bromine). Chlorine is both a sanitizer and an oxidizer; ozone is only an oxidizer and, worse, it has no residual effect.

I wouldn't add peroxide (another oxidizer) to a pool for multiple reasons, including the color of my hair and bathing suits. (Do you mean Baquacil at 35%? I wouldn't consider that to be dirt cheap, even in bulk.)

I agree that ozone generators have a place in hot tubs. They also have a place in public pools, where the bather load is high.

Last edited by CheyDee; 10-28-2012 at 12:48 PM..
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:22 PM
 
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An oxidizer is a sanitizer which is why you can read ORP with any of the different methods for sanitizing the water like ozone, chlorine, peroxide, UV, etc...
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:43 PM
 
Location: the AZ desert
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Neither ozone nor UV have any residual effects.
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:23 PM
 
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I know this is an old thread,but yes household bleach...the cheapest you can find works better than chlorine tabs that add cya to your pool making it more difficult to maintain desired levels....I use 8.25% from Aldi or walmart.
go to troublefreepool.com to see how its done Wash
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Old 08-19-2015, 07:05 PM
 
Location: FL
20,702 posts, read 12,536,757 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheyDee View Post
This is a fabulous website, which will teach you everything you ever wanted to know about pool maintenance and then some.


I don't have a pool any more but I learned a lot from that site.
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:29 PM
 
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Have an above ground 19000 gallon pool with sand filter. Shocked and algea -60 over the last 3 days. Took the water to be tested..No chlorine...getting ready to winterize...want to use household grade bleach...to clear up water and close pool....we have no other history of pool but from when we took cover off....can we get by with bleach..until early Spring when we are ready to re-open...if so ...how much..
Thank you
TNY
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:19 AM
 
Location: Huntsville
6,009 posts, read 6,668,923 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNY71 View Post
Have an above ground 19000 gallon pool with sand filter. Shocked and algea -60 over the last 3 days. Took the water to be tested..No chlorine...getting ready to winterize...want to use household grade bleach...to clear up water and close pool....we have no other history of pool but from when we took cover off....can we get by with bleach..until early Spring when we are ready to re-open...if so ...how much..
Thank you
TNY


There is more to winterizing a pool than just adding in bleach or chlorine. The chemistry needs to be balanced. So you will need to get it balanced just as if you intended to swim in it. Once it is balanced, then you can drain and close the pool following winterization principles depending upon your region.


If you just dump chlorine in, there is a risk that you will stain the liner if the chlorine isn't circulated for a period of time. They make a non-chlorinated shock that I typically use when winterizing.


Here's what we do to winterize our pool (We have a 30k gallon 20x40 in ground, but same principle applies)


1. Balance the chemicals a week in advance.
2. Add winterizing kit (stain inhibitors, chlorine free shock, etc...)
3. Brush and vacuum the pool thoroughly and then backwash the filter
4. Drain the pool down 6 inches below the lowest return/jet
5. Remove the jets
6. Blow out the lines using compressed air and then plug the jet and return lines in the pool
7. Remove all drain plugs from the sand filter and pump (both pump side and return) and set the multiport valve to Winter (open position between filter and waste)
8. Remove ladders, etc... from the water
9. Install the safety cover


We don't use the time released floater, so we have to deal with a lightly tinted green water come spring, but it is usually very easy to clear up.






As for using regular bleach, a pool company in Chattanooga gave us the recipe that they use to maintain a pool our size and we will be using it next spring instead of all the pool store chemicals. Keep in mind this is what they gave us to maintain a 30k gallon pool. If you intend to use this formula for anything other than that, you'll need to do the calculation adjustments.


Shock the pool using 4 gallons of bleach (1 gal is equal to 2/3 lb granulated shock). 1 gallon adds 2 PPM of unstable chlorine to 30k gallons. Raise the chlorine level to above 6 PPM and do not swim for a few hrs (we shock at night) to let the chlorine deplete back down to a safe level by morning. Only have to shock once per two weeks instead of once per week with granulated shock. To maintain stable chlorine we will still use tablets. The goal is to maintain 1-3 PPM between shocks.


Add 14 grams of 20 Mule Team Borax around the edge of the pool to maintain PH per week. If PH is below 7.2, add the entire box. and check until the PH is between 7.2-7.6 PPM.


If alkalinity is low, add 5 oz of baking soda at night and check every day until it is between 120-200 PPM.


You can use Copper Sulfate in place of the expensive algaecides and can find it at the Farmers Co-op in your area for about $8-$16 depending on the size. Do not let kids get near this. Add one teaspoon full every 2-3 weeks while shocking by pouring it into the return basket so that it is pulled through the filter.


Current cost per month - $75-$80
Estimated cost per month: $36-$40


1 gallon of box store brand bleach - $3 (I need 4 gallons twice per month) $24
20 mule team borax (65 oz) - $5.50 (I need 14 grams twice per month, or .49 grams) $.08
Baking Soda (4 lb) - $2.25 (I need 5 oz per week) $.16
Chlorine tablets (50 lb bucket, about 114 per bucket)- $110 (I need 3 per week) $12
Copper sulfate (1 pint) $16.95 - (I need 2 teaspoons per month, or .33 oz) $.34
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