Outdoor Patio Cover - Free Standing (how much, roof, phone, ceiling)

[swacker69]

All:

My wife and I want to build an Outdoor Patio Cover which will be freestanding. I have done some research before asking the following questions but I am not an expert so please be patient with me

The dimensions will be 20x20 and I would like to use 8x8's in either Cedar or Pine. The reason I would like to use 8x8's is so I can avoid 6 posts and just use only 4. I would like a 8 foot opening and a 5 pitch Gable style roof.

At this current time no utilities will be installed or no slab will be poured, just the Patio Cover.

Question1: If I use Cedar 8x8's I plan in the future to stone the columns only up halfway so I don't cover up the nice cedar post I paid for. How will I get my electricity up into the ceiling of the patio cover? If I was using 6x6's I would run it up the column under the stone and then panel the cedar and hide it that way. I guess I should still panel the cedar and the column would then turn into a 10x10? If this is the case than I might as well just buy 8x8 in pine and use cedar paneling when im ready to run my electricity?.

Question2: I am doing this in phases so if I do go with cedar, how long can I wait before I do the roof portion before the posts and beams (or 3 1/2 x 12's) get dried out by the sun or just too weathered. I will complete the roof in about 2 months.

Question 3: Since I am building it out of cedar and it will be 20x20 will 3 1/2 x 12 be sufficient instead of using a lvl beam. I plan on notching the 8x8 post and setting the 3 /12x12 on top of it and bolting it. I am not sure how much weight this will be afterwards but there will never be any walls or people up on the roof

Thanks in advance.

Greg

[wit-nit]

What does your city/county require. You'll need a permit and they will give you minimum requirements to pass code.

[swacker69]

I only need my to fill out a few materials forms with my HOA

[wit-nit]

Originally Posted by swacker69

I only need my to fill out a few materials forms with my HOA

That's step one. When you state it being a 20 x 20 size patio and adding electricity I'd suggest you go a second step and see what your city building inspection dept says. It's better to be safe than sorry, especially if someone gets hurt or you go to sell and a permit was required. In our area you'd have to tear it down and pay a steep fine if the inspectors find out.
Houston Codes say over 300 sq ft and electricity hook up require a permit no matter what anyone says. HOA's only say yes or no to putting up a structure, they are not in the permit/building business.
I'm not being facetious, only trying to watch your future back. Been there done that.
Here's a business in your area that can explain it.
Patio Kits Direct, DIY Alumawood Patio Covers

[K'ledgeBldr]

Here's the part of this equation that most people dont get-
Just because you want to limit the number of posts doesn't automatically mean bigger to support the load. Even small dimensional lumber (2X4) has great strength in a vertical axis. What you also have to deal with- especially with this type of structure- is uplift. The structure has to be firmly anchored to the ground. And sometimes, the only way to achieve the correct formula for the size of the structure is adding posts. The more anchor positions there are, the more resistance to uplift.

Sure, it's easy to figure load for the span and a 6X6 post on 4 corners would hold the "weight"- but more than likely would not cover the formula for uplift- even with "over-spec'd" anchoring hardware. I would use steel posts with saddles for the beams; plate for the foot anchor and embedded anchor bolts in the footings.

Posts can be wrapped with 1X to create 6X6 or 8X8 looking posts. The additional cavity can serve as a raceway for electrical.

Here's the particulars- pay close attention to Sec. 312.9
http://www.tdi.texas.gov/wind/docume...nstguidean.pdf

[swacker69]

I appreciate the response and I did look at the tdi website you provided - Thank you sir. I looked at the section on footers and I wasn't sure if you could use brackets like simpson strong ties to anchor the posts to the ground or if the city would want you to put the post into the cement 3 feet deep. I talked to a patio cover builder and he told the city would only allow the posts to be buried as opposed to being anchored. His reasoning was to eliminated lateral movement.

I would like some clarification if you could help out in this area please. BTW I called the city and I got someone on the phone that was having a bad day so I didn't get the answer I was looking for.

[K'ledgeBldr]

Lateral movement can usually be controlled with knee braces. Size and connections are critical and are dependent on overall structure size.

You say, "I didn't get the answer I was looking for".
Does that mean you got no answer at all; or you got an answer- just not what YOU WANTED(?)

[swacker69]

I got no answer. I asked for a little help from the lady at the permits office and was told to have my contractor figure it out.

There are a lot of people that don't use permits and that's their decision. But for someone that is really trying to do the right thing....im having a hard time gathering simple information. Everytime I call another patio cover place I get a different answer to having the posts cemented into the ground as opposed to embedding just the brackets into the cement.

Is there a site that I can go to ask these questions?