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Yes I had a UV unit in my last house. In addition to the UV unit you need really good filtration before the unit. Bacteria are small enough that if there are particals in the water then you're not assured that it is not being shielded from the UV. I had a 20,then a 5, then a 2 and lastly a 1 micron filter...then the UV unit. Not all that expensive to install...did it all myself (McMaster Carr etc)
You also have to replace the UV tube yearly...although it may not be burned out the UV output level decreases over time.
UV tube replacement and filters (which you prob. want anyway ) are the mantainance items.
it's been awhile ( > 10 yrs) so I'm sure there's newer stuff out there.but I deal with McMaster Carr for industrial type stuff...not the least expensive I'm sure but they don't sell junk..
But I would also stop in at a local plumbing supply house (where plumbers go) and chat up the guys at the service counter...lots-O free and generally good advice.
Note...NOT your local "home center" non-sense
I would try WW Grainger before McMaster Carr. While McMaster Carr has EVERYTHING under the planet, they are on the high end.
I don't know about for the house, but I have a UV filter on my pond to keep algae down. The bulbs are fairly expensive, and they say to change them once/year even though they are still working.
I don't think there is any way a homeowner can actually tell if the bulb is effective or not (worn out), you just have to rely on the manf (that sells bulbs) to tell you when to change it out.
Any water treatment dealer will have Class A or B UV lights from the largest manufacturers there are. A 20 mic prefilter is all that is needed for particulate matter but, the other pre treatment parameters are usually; +<7 gpg hardness, 0 ppm iron, manganese and H2S etc..
All lamps/bulbs have a 9000+/- hr life and rarely burn out. It is the invisible narrow band 254.7 nm UV light that 'kills', not the visible light.
Many Class A models have intensity and lamp out monitors with audio and visible alarms. Most Class B lights will not have the intensity monitor but will have a visible lamp out indication.
You must install a means to disinfect the light and all plumbing past the light and do so every time the power goes off for more than a minute or two. Some lights will have a water shut off solenoid option. I do not suggest that because in the event of fire, the power goes off to the house or light and you can not get any water past the light. You never want a plumbing by pass around a UV light.
Most water treatment dealers are the best choice for any treatment equipment, they know of all the equipment available in the water treatment industry. Plumbing and pump supply houses and their suppliers, and the big box stores usually only know a bit about the make/model they sell. And most of their counter help won't know anything about any of it; there's usually only one or two 'clerks' that do the water treatment sales.
The required minimal maintenance is to replace the lamp/bulb and clean the quartz sleeve and disinfect annually while keeping any pre treatment equipment working as designed; like a water softener etc..
Actually, many of the top UV manufacturer recommend an absolute (not nominal) 5-micron prefilter. And it is best to get a softener that produces softened water (< 1 gpg) at all times.
Actually, many of the top UV manufacturer recommend an absolute (not nominal) 5-micron prefilter.
Andy Christensen, CWS-II
I disagree. I've sold many UVs over the years of many different brands made by different manufacturers and have never seen that requirement. So list the manufacturers that say absolute and 5 micron so we can check that out.
I disagree. I've sold many UVs over the years of many different brands made by different manufacturers and have never seen that requirement. So list the manufacturers that say absolute and 5 micron so we can check that out.
I don't know what requirement you are talking about.
I have a UV water treatment system and just recently, the plug (that plugs directly into the outlet) from the UV lamp unit has been emitting a constant high pitch tone. A tone sort of like when your ears are ringing. The plug is boxy in shape with a red and green light on it. Both lights are currently lit on the plug. The UV bulb for the system is still "lit". We just moved into the home a few months ago and I am not sure when the bulb was last changed. Do you think the bulb is going bad and causing the noise in the plug or do you think the actual plug is bad? I do not have any owner's manuals or anything like that so I am not sure if the system has any sort of audible warning. Thanks in advance.
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