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When I looked into a detached garage of similar size I was looking about 25-30k plus whatever the town wants to hit you for. That was a basic bare bones cheap everything deal. It goes up quickly from there. Do you want insulation, drywall, 2x6 framing, power, an attic with storage, a good door, an electronic door opener, heat, 2 doors, exterior lighting, a door into the house, outside entry door, better quality roofing, a window, etc. Then you get into site issues. I wouldn’t have had to try to hard to drop 40k on it. Wound up going a different route.
I’d say your ballpark is 20k -50k. Bare bones cheap and lucking out on a deal - getting somthing higher end from a reputable contractor. You’ll likely land somewhere on the middle of that.
(1) An attached garage requires electric, and probably requires lighting outside door
(2) I seriously doubt that the town will let you build an attached garage without garage doors, as it is then obvious that it is not at all a garage
(3) Needs to be a fire break to house, and I doubt your sheathing/siding qualifies, and any windows need to be closed in
(4) That is a large "garage," which must comply with setback requirements
(5) You likely need gutters; some towns may require drywell
I read the OP's specs as "a 36" door in addition to the garage door(s)", in other words a door on the side. But now I see "no garage doors" -- does that mean no garage doors AT ALL, or garage doors installed by someone other than whoever is building the structure? I am confused.
A 25x25 is a two-car garage. You would definitely want electric in there for outlets and a couple of ceiling lights even if garage door openers aren't in the plan.
Gutters are typically required by building codes depending on where the structure is located in relation to the property line. For example Town of Babylon says:
All new residential one- and two-family construction where the roof eave drain drip line is located at a point less than 10 feet from a property line shall require the installation of horizontal storm drainage gutters of either wood, metal or plastic construction having a minimum diameter of three inches or rectangular equivalent. Said gutters are to be pitched towards a leader or leaders of wood, metal or plastic construction with a diameter of at least two inches with the minimum size of leaders, storm drains and roof gutters to be determined in accordance with the table entitled "Maximum Permissive Loads for Storm Drainage, Piping and Gutters — -Table 531" of the New York State Building Code. Said leaders are to be installed so as to connect a dry well which shall measure a minimum of 18 inches in diameter (or rectangular equivalent) with a depth of no less than three feet. Said dry wells shall be located so that the nearest edge shall be no less than four feet from the foundation wall of the house wherein there is slab or crawl space construction and seven feet where full basement construction is proposed. The dry well size is dependent on the area to be drained and soil absorption.
I would assume that "new construction" would also apply to a building addition although if the main house was built before drywells were code, the garage leaders might be grandfathered in. Or not.
Which brings up the question of whether the OP would need to obtain a variance in order to add said garage because of setback on the side or front.
No setback issues as this will be built right behind existing 2 car attached garge. Im 20ft or more from any property line. Also this is why no garage doors. I will enter with car through the current 2 car garage opening. Im essentially making a 2 car into a 4 car if thats easier to understand.
As far as electric i will do that myself after the fact.
Oh, sorry, I misunderstood. So you are enlarging an existing garage, not building a new one from scratch next to a house that doesn't already have one.
I would guess the cost would be the same as to build any 25x25 shell on slab. Have you checked with a company like Shells Only? That would seem to be their thing:
Seriously??? For a slab, 3 walls and a roof? I am in the wrong business. Thats completely insane!
Agreed, seems more like it should cost $20-25K?
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