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Originally Posted by ShermanJoe
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Thanks for posting the article. Very interesting.
While Tap has closed down, there are great food spots all over Northern Michigan. While some are recent arrivals, others have been operating for a long time, and are being rediscovered by people with an aroused curiousity for local foods of all kinds. Good quality food doesn't
have to be an artful, sculptural arrangement in the center of a half-acre plate. It might come from a humble spot along side the road that's been there forever.
Just up the road from the late, lamented Tapawingo is the place that gave Pete Petersen (Tap's owner and original chef) his start in Northern Michigan: The Rowe Inn. When Wes Westhoven started the Rowe there really wasn't much in the way of fine, creative dining in the area. He and wife Arlene toughed it out, kept serving wonderful food and the place is still thriving. One of the best wine collections anywhere, as well.
Pete was hired by Wes, and sharpened his craft at The Rowe. When he left to open his own place he just moved down the road, which, in that small area, seemed a bit treasonous to The Rowe. Wes took it pretty graciously, of course, but it hurt his hard-won business for some time.
The role of Alice Waters is interesting. She definitely was a major player in raising the awareness of the value of local foods and wines, etc.
But, here's another perspective about Alice. She is the sister of a friend of mine, and has visited Leland on a number of occasions. A very nice person, someone I've enjoyed getting to know, and, certainly, a very talented chef and writer.
But... when she was in charge of the weekend-long food oriented celebration of a nephew's wedding, a HUGE amount of the food served at those meals was
flown in... out-of-season fruits, meat from California, on and on. When local peaches were at perfect ripeness, she chose flown-in raspberries for a dessert. This happened a lot, and left the impression with many who worked on these meals that LOCAL was fine, as long as that "local" was California, and that truely local Michigan foods were somehow suspect or not up to her standards. To be fair, she did use some local products, but not nearly to the degree one would expect from the Queen of Local Cuisine.
Kind of a do-as-I say-not-as-I-do thing.