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One of my favorites as well - its a big and heavy pro-quality lens but its tack sharp and its a 2.8 lens throughout the entire zoom range, unlike the kit lens. I use mine all the time as well as my 1995-vintage 80-200/2.8 zoom.
I also have a D80 and just a few weeks ago bought a D7000 to supplement or eventually replace it. Already its clear that the D7000 does much better at high ISO and in really long exposures (several minutes). The D80 sensor tends to show all sorts of greenish "sensor glow" after more than a couple minutes.
i have duplicated the sensor glow by following instructions with some test shots and the lens cap on the camera.
we tried that when i first got the d80 4-1/2 years ago but the truth is i never ran into it being a problem in anything we ever took.
marilyn (badcook5) on this forum and i have trouble telling who took what as i use the d300 and her the d80 and they are that close in quality.. usually in low light ill use the f1.8 and f2.8 lenses and she will use the 50mm f1.4 and that allows her to shoot at lower iso speeds then me, usually no more than 800 with the d80. with the d300 up to 1600 is fine if you watch dark backgrounds.
Last edited by mathjak107; 07-25-2011 at 03:32 AM..
One of my favorites as well - its a big and heavy pro-quality lens but its tack sharp and its a 2.8 lens throughout the entire zoom range, unlike the kit lens. I use mine all the time as well as my 1995-vintage 80-200/2.8 zoom.
I also have a D80 and just a few weeks ago bought a D7000 to supplement or eventually replace it. Already its clear that the D7000 does much better at high ISO and in really long exposures (several minutes). The D80 sensor tends to show all sorts of greenish "sensor glow" after more than a couple minutes.
i sold my 17-55mm ,infact i sold all my zooms except my nikon 80-200mm f2.8 and went all lightweight ,low light primes and saved a bundle of money..
i have never hot anything yet where a few steps forward or back didnt do what i would have with the zoom.
having low light lenses all the time with you and not carrying extra weight lugging them with your zooms is a big plus.
i now use the nikon 24mm f2.8 ,35mm f1.8 , 50mm f1.4 ,105mm vr macro and the 80-200mm f2.8.
just a few weeks ago marilyn and i were at the nyc botanical gardens shooting macro. we wanted to lug nothing extra with us so except for a 50mm f1.4 in my pocket and our macro lenses thats all we took.
well we ran into a show indoors in one of the halls with flemenco dancers..
i popped the lightweight prime i had in my pocket on and got great shots.
i like it alot. im thinking of getting my wife one to replace her d80.
what budget are you setting for a lens? one of my favorites is the nikon 17-55mm f2.8 ...
Not on much of a budget for the lens, Just want a good all purpose lens That will work good in low light and has the anti shake. maybe something that will go from wide angle to some telephoto. As you can see I don't know allot about it.
Will the lenses that work with the Nikon D1X fit the Nikon D7000??
Not on much of a budget for the lens, Just want a good all purpose lens That will work good in low light and has the anti shake. maybe something that will go from wide angle to some telephoto. As you can see I don't know allot about it.
Back when ASA 400 film as considered fast, a lens with a wide aperture was considered significant for low light. But that isn't really true today, simply because DSLR's like the D7000 have a great deal more effect on low light ability than the aperture of the lens!
Lens aperture is very significant for depth of field though, so it isn't like you wouldn't want to think about an f/2.8 zoom for creative purposes.
But on a low budget, zoom is the most significant functionality. Typically the zoom range is also an indication of overall quality too. 3:1 zooms, for example a 70-200mm, are usually very good (sharp and no vignetting or barrel/pincushion distortion across all apertures and focal lengths). 5:1 zoom range is where things aren't so great, but can still be very good. The superzooms, at 10:1 or more zoom range all exhibit various problems at the extreme ends of the zoom range and at wide open apertures. The better superzooms, and Nikon has some that are as good as they get, are also not usually cheap.
The above suggests you will probably find a zoom with a 4 or 5 to 1 zoom range to be the most economical and versatile. As an example, the Nikkor 18-70mm is inexpensive and widely available used for peanuts because it was the kit lens for the D2X a few years ago.
Note that at wider angle focal lengths there is not much significance to having Vibration Reduction. Starting at perhaps 60mm or so it has more benefit.
Quote:
Will the lenses that work with the Nikon D1X fit the Nikon D7000??
Back when ASA 400 film as considered fast, a lens with a wide aperture was considered significant for low light. But that isn't really true today, simply because DSLR's like the D7000 have a great deal more effect on low light ability than the aperture of the lens!
Lens aperture is very significant for depth of field though, so it isn't like you wouldn't want to think about an f/2.8 zoom for creative purposes.
But on a low budget, zoom is the most significant functionality. Typically the zoom range is also an indication of overall quality too. 3:1 zooms, for example a 70-200mm, are usually very good (sharp and no vignetting or barrel/pincushion distortion across all apertures and focal lengths). 5:1 zoom range is where things aren't so great, but can still be very good. The superzooms, at 10:1 or more zoom range all exhibit various problems at the extreme ends of the zoom range and at wide open apertures. The better superzooms, and Nikon has some that are as good as they get, are also not usually cheap.
The above suggests you will probably find a zoom with a 4 or 5 to 1 zoom range to be the most economical and versatile. As an example, the Nikkor 18-70mm is inexpensive and widely available used for peanuts because it was the kit lens for the D2X a few years ago.
Note that at wider angle focal lengths there is not much significance to having Vibration Reduction. Starting at perhaps 60mm or so it has more benefit.
I've got one. It's a great camera. Image quality better than that of a D300s, price of a D90 replacement, and it meters with MF glass. The only cameras Nikon makes that are better right now are the D700 and D3.
Lenses: my kit consists of a Nikon AIS 28/2.8, a Tokina 35-70 2.8 (MF, AT-X I think it's name is), Nikon 50/1.8 E, Nikon 70-210 D. Each work great, and except for the 70-210, all are pretty fast, and all are inexpensive. All told, that setup, minus the body, ran me $300.
With the D7000, you can hunt for bargain gems of manual focus lenses (made after 78, or AI or later, pre-AI lenses won't work, and they are cheapest of all). All the lenses I have work and meter on my D7000 and FE (ca. 1978). The 70-210 and my 28-80 Sigma POS meter on my D50, N80, and N75, the other lenses work, but won't meter. Not too big of a problem for me, my medium and large format cameras don't have meters at all, but for most people, that means buying and using an external meter - just another thing to loose, forget, break, and/or figure out how to use effectively.
If money were no object, I'd put together a wish list like this:
Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 ($500)
Nikon 35/1.8 AFS ($200)
Nikon 50/1.8 D ($100)
Nikon 85/1.4 ($1200)
Nikon 180/2.8 ($900)
All pretty fast, quality lenses that cover 99% of what most people shoot (100% of what I shoot). Wicked expensive long fast lenses are much cheaper to rent.
However, with money an object, I'd do this instead:
Nikon 35/1.8 AFS ($200)
Nikon 80-200/2.8 ($1100)
A good starter setup that you'll never outgrow (good lenses). After shooting for a while, you could decide you want wide angles or macro or what ever that is lacking and buy then.
Note: It's currently on sale at Costco for $1,799.00 with the 18-200 lens included. Perhaps not the top lens, but still good for that price.
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