Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
are you using all focal points or single point?
reason i ask is because on your last image (sitting on the chair) it looks like the camera made what seems to be a chairs arm rest the subject on the bottom right
Yep. I brought it up earlier. I recommended using one point, preferably a cross-type (I am not familiar with layout in Nikon's entry level cameras about linear and cross-type AF points).
are you using all focal points or single point?
reason i ask is because on your last image (sitting on the chair) it looks like the camera made what seems to be a chairs arm rest the subject on the bottom right
if noneof the above work you may want to view this page
I changed the metering to Metrix instead of center weighted. Then I cleaned the lens, then took a picture of the tripod as kdog suggested. These are how the pictures turned out this time (I also had more lighting):
And no worries, that cassette is in my cassette player upstairs along with my CDs!
I changed the metering to Metrix instead of center weighted.
Metering options will not make much of a difference. All it does is adjust your exposure values. For example, with center spot meter, only the center of the frame will be evaluated. If it is brighter than the surroundings, it will result in a faster shutter speed (the surrounding will show up darker still). Here is an example:
In this case, I used spot metering on the flower (morning sun was on it) and got the exposure. "Locked" the exposure ("AEL" on my cameras, yours may have similar option), recomposed to as I wanted, re-focused and snapped. The background got darker even though it wasn't that dark because the exposure was set on one of the brightest parts in the scene. This also gave me a decent shutter speed.
Had I use matrix metering, the backdrop would have been exposed more, the shutter speed would have been slightly slower and flower would also be slightly brighter (slower shutter speed means longer exposure which will brighten up the scene).
In your case, using spot metering would meter off you (being in the center)... but of course, since you used kdog's technique, the metering was set on the background (behind you). This may not matter much with matrix metering (which most people use anyway, and I do too, unless I go with specific requirements like above).
If you had a brightly lit window behind you, the camera would have metered mainly for the window and you will mostly get a silhouette (to a lesser extent with matrix metering). If you wanted a hi-key image (shooting against a window) so your face shows, you would use spot metering which will overbrighten the window but you will also show up. Here is a similar situation:
Here Oscar is standing under a shade at a rest area. The backdrop is brightly lit (summer afternoon in Northwest Texas). Matrix metering would result in camera evaluating that a significant part of the frame is brightly lit. This will result in a faster shutter speed and some details on Oscar would be lost. Using Spot Metering on Oscar, brightened him up (lowered the shutter speed) and made the backdrop a bit of a blow-out (Which is fine in this situation).
So, metering options are simply a play of these settings. Sometimes, you could get AF to work when contrast is very low, by using metering, however.
Metering options will not make much of a difference. All it does is adjust your exposure values. For example, with center spot meter, only the center of the frame will be evaluated. If it is brighter than the surroundings, it will result in a faster shutter speed (the surrounding will show up darker still). Here is an example:
In this case, I used spot metering on the flower (morning sun was on it) and got the exposure. "Locked" the exposure ("AEL" on my cameras, yours may have similar option), recomposed to as I wanted, re-focused and snapped. The background got darker even though it wasn't that dark because the exposure was set on one of the brightest parts in the scene. This also gave me a decent shutter speed.
Had I use matrix metering, the backdrop would have been exposed more, the shutter speed would have been slightly slower and flower would also be slightly brighter (slower shutter speed means longer exposure which will brighten up the scene).
In your case, using spot metering would meter off you (being in the center)... but of course, since you used kdog's technique, the metering was set on the background (behind you). This may not matter much with matrix metering (which most people use anyway, and I do too, unless I go with specific requirements like above).
If you had a brightly lit window behind you, the camera would have metered mainly for the window and you will mostly get a silhouette (to a lesser extent with matrix metering). If you wanted a hi-key image (shooting against a window) so your face shows, you would use spot metering which will overbrighten the window but you will also show up. Here is a similar situation:
Here Oscar is standing under a shade at a rest area. The backdrop is brightly lit (summer afternoon in Northwest Texas). Matrix metering would result in camera evaluating that a significant part of the frame is brightly lit. This will result in a faster shutter speed and some details on Oscar would be lost. Using Spot Metering on Oscar, brightened him up (lowered the shutter speed) and made the backdrop a bit of a blow-out (Which is fine in this situation).
So, metering options are simply a play of these settings. Sometimes, you could get AF to work when contrast is very low, by using metering, however.
Ah, okay! I know I've changed the points before, but I honestly forget how I did that. Later, I'm definitely going to read the book. I'm still in the process of learning how to use this camera. Thanks again.
Ah, okay! I know I've changed the points before, but I honestly forget how I did that. Later, I'm definitely going to read the book. I'm still in the process of learning how to use this camera. Thanks again.
Jess, keep it simple. I know sometimes I end up posting more than I should, but start with the simplest possible set up, and go from there. Do note that some of the blur (in the last set you just posted) is also motion blur, where you might have moved enough... possibly to keep up with the self-timer.
Best learning might be from practicing in good lighting conditions first. Low light kinda complicates things a bit as additional issues (usually from camera and lens) can also play a role.
May be try a snapshot using an Auto mode. Look at the settings the camera used. Then, turn to Aperture Priority, Manually set a low ISO and see if you can improve upon it.
Jess, keep it simple. I know sometimes I end up posting more than I should, but start with the simplest possible set up, and go from there. Do note that some of the blur (in the last set you just posted) is also motion blur, where you might have moved enough... possibly to keep up with the self-timer.
Best learning might be from practicing in good lighting conditions first. Low light kinda complicates things a bit as additional issues (usually from camera and lens) can also play a role.
May be try a snapshot using an Auto mode. Look at the settings the camera used. Then, turn to Aperture Priority, Manually set a low ISO and see if you can improve upon it.
That's a great idea! Yeah, the blur in one picture was motion blur. I was running to catch the timer. I'm going to play around with it.
I bought that camera for a class, but the teacher never actually taught anything. She always got side tracked. It was supposed to be a digital class with a week in film. Film turned into 10 weeks, then we only had digital for 3 weeks. I loved the film portion, but I really wanted what I signed up for. It was disappointing.
Do be careful when you clean your lens - especially cleaning inside the camera.
Dummy Bunny once blew inside the camera and sent the camera to the shop afterward due to dead auto focus
Ah, yes, I was very careful. I used one of those dust blowers and held it very far away. Hopefully this isn't something that will need to be cleaned all the time!
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
