Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Have you set rat traps and live catch squirrel traps?
Another option is a muskrat trap. The come in cage and the other looks like this:
Conibear Traps, Coon Traps, Muskrat Traps, Oppossum Traps, Raccoon Traps, Coni Bear Traps (http://www.guardianpestcontrol.com/conibear_trap.htm - broken link)
It will kill it if its a rat, cat, coon, etc.
Sounds like a rat to me. Rats eat mice and other rats. Better check your wiring so the whole thing doesn't burn down too. I would go with the kill trap because rats can be aggressive. If you cage trap it you can call someone, drown it or poison it...Yeh I know its horrible.
But its the way it is.
Walk around your building and look for piles of stuff/grass. Basically any secondary nesting opportunities for the rats.
The building is practically empty. I reset the trap last night and this time changed the trap so the rat or whatever would have to go all the way to the end in the hope that it would trigger the trap. And nope, didn't work
I either must be really bad at setting traps or this rat or raccoon is outsmarting me every time. btw its eaten A LOT of poison. It shouldn't be walking anymore.
I either must be really bad at setting traps or this rat or raccoon is outsmarting me every time. btw its eaten A LOT of poison. It shouldn't be walking anymore.
You are talking about "it", when there could be several or many.
Rats will often prefer to carry food back to the nest, which is one reason bait should not be used in restaurants; it gets dropped into food and onto cooking and food preparation surfaces. You can't be sure how much is consumed.
Why not follow some of the excellent advice posted here already? Nail a glueboard to a 2X4, spread some peanut butter in the center, then place it along a wall. You can also use wire to secure the glueboards to exposed overhead pipes.
By now you should also have discovered where the rodents have entered the living space, and where they have entered the structure. Be sure to seal the exterior opening(s) immediately, and then the interior openings when the rodents have been eliminated.
Lastly, disinfect all surfaces with a solution of bleach, as rats cannot control their sphincter gland and urinate as they scurry along.
I wouldn't fool around anymore with live-trapping, as I think I hear something gnawing on your wiring.
^that would explain why the spoon was missing. It carried the spoon away!
I would also remove the knife, fork, and after dinner mints. Time to get serious.
Was thinking that the Norway rat is pretty strong, and could pull the glueboard off of the 2X4, so use some strong adhesive on the bottom, just in case.
I rented an old house in Nebraska back in 1978 and it had mice. So we put out a large box of D-Con rat poison in a closet and there was a bag of Irish Spring bar soap in there too.
Next morning a bar of soap was partly eaten and box was missing but you could see trail of poison where it was being drug away. I thought what the hell is that big to do that. It went behind frig and we found a huge dead rat. The thought that I was sleeping in a sleeping bag cause we did not have bed set up yet really was not very settling. But had no more problems and moved to better place 2 months later.
I hope you're keeping track of all the time and energy (and the other money on poison, traps, etc.) all this is taking. I know you baulk at spending but an exterminator would probably have had the whole place cleared up by now and the discussions about super-glue boards and disposing of either trapped or stuck but still living animals wouldn't be continuing. Cheers!
The building is practically empty. I reset the trap last night and this time changed the trap so the rat or whatever would have to go all the way to the end in the hope that it would trigger the trap. And nope, didn't work
I either must be really bad at setting traps or this rat or raccoon is outsmarting me every time. btw its eaten A LOT of poison. It shouldn't be walking anymore.
What kinda trap are you using? That make a HUGE difference. Old, inferior and weak springs wont be swift and strong enough to do the job. Stop using that trap. Its not working. Get that one that looks like a couple of metal squares. Nothing survives those. We caught a bunch of red squirrels with those that the cage traps weren't fast enough for when they were in an attic. I wouldn't even bother with glue traps. Its not going to anything to a big rat or other animal over a few ounces. Your "mice" could actually be baby rats. Do you think so?
What kinda trap are you using? That make a HUGE difference. Old, inferior and weak springs wont be swift and strong enough to do the job. Stop using that trap. Its not working. Get that one that looks like a couple of metal squares. Nothing survives those. We caught a bunch of red squirrels with those that the cage traps weren't fast enough for when they were in an attic. I wouldn't even bother with glue traps. Its not going to anything to a big rat or other animal over a few ounces. Your "mice" could actually be baby rats. Do you think so?
I don't know what the difference in baby rats and mice would be. What is it?
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
