Pontiac Grand Prix having a hard time starting. (vehicle, idle, spark plugs)
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I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix, V6, 3.8L with 140,000 miles on it.
Resonantly I had a rebuilt transmission put in and I always keep up with my oil changes. The last few months or so I have noticed how the car has a hard time starting at times. I turn the key and it sounds like it starts up fine only to turn off again. The second time around it starts up fine.
I do not have this problem every day but 3 times a week on average. Last time the car had a tune up was at 100,000 miles.
What do you suggest the problem is?
Do you have a Check Engine Light on? You may have some codes that can be read - anyway, if the last tuneup included a fuel filter, you are about due.
First thing you need to do IMHO is take care of maintenance, do a normal tuneup, although I do not know if this is what's causing the car to stall right after starting.
Do you have a Check Engine Light on? You may have some codes that can be read - anyway, if the last tuneup included a fuel filter, you are about due.
First thing you need to do IMHO is take care of maintenance, do a normal tuneup, although I do not know if this is what's causing the car to stall right after starting.
This could be the ignition switch.
There is no check engine light on. Im am not sure how bad the fuel filter is. Could it be the sparks plugs?
I would suggest that changing the fuel filter and spark plugs would probably improve your MPG enough to pay for itself anyway so would start there.
Offhand this does sound like an ignition switch issue though. I think many GM switches have 2 sets of contacts, one may be working better than the other, thus the start - go dead - start - run fine cycle. But I am guessing.
A good shop might be able to read codes even though the CEL is not on.
I would suggest that changing the fuel filter and spark plugs would probably improve your MPG enough to pay for itself anyway so would start there.
Offhand this does sound like an ignition switch issue though. I think many GM switches have 2 sets of contacts, one may be working better than the other, thus the start - go dead - start - run fine cycle. But I am guessing.
A good shop might be able to read codes even though the CEL is not on.
Thanks Mitch. I appreciate it. You have helped me before.
This can also be a Passlock anti-theft system problem which is common on GM vehicles. Pay attention to the dashboard when this happens and look for the "theft" light blinking when the vehicle shuts off. Often, when the Passlock starts having a problem it will allow the car to start briefly and then shut it down since it is not reading the key properly. When they get worse they will not allow the car to start and the "theft" light sometimes stays on rather than blinking.
M3 Mitch is 100% correct with the codes. Only emission related controls will kick the check engine light on. Many times there are codes in the computers (yes, there are more than one) but the driver will not know it since they do not kick the "check engine" light on. Any decent shop will have a true scan tool that can check for any codes in the computers.
Thanks guys! I'm having the same problem, but i havent had a tune up in about 65,000 miles. I want to get a "remote" start put on my car for the winter, but the remote place said it wouldnt be a good idea until i can get the car to start on the first turn.
I would suggest a tune up for sure if its been that long. Plugs/wires, and maybe have the coils checked out. If you do it yourself, there are guides for checking ohms on them.
All said and done, I might lean towards a fuel pump. Especially if it fires off, runs for a second then dies. See if you can get fuel pressure checked, while its having the problems.
There is no check engine light on. Im am not sure how bad the fuel filter is. Could it be the sparks plugs?
It's not apt to be your spark plugs. That'll be a different set of symptoms.
It's most likely a fuel pressure regulator, or idle air control valve. It's possible that the cause of either of those could be connected to a vacuum leak. Remotely possible that it's a MAF sensor, though that should throw a code.
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did u ever solve problem?
