Problem w/AC (Sarasota, Naples, Venice: houses, water heater, buying)

[loves2read]

Our house has older AC unit--not sure how old--which is in garage vs attic...
There was water (condensate we think) leaking into the bottom where the filter goes this evening--
we first noticed it around 730.
The thermostate we usually set at 74 but I raised it to about 77 later this afternoon when we were outside swimming with our grandson...I didn't wnat him to be chilled when we came back inside.
It was set at 77 for about 3 hrs...

when my husband saw the water leaking from the unit, he came in and check the thermostat and set it to run on program (at 74) and the water slowed down...
it is not running now--thermostat shows 77--
so not sure what is going on...

we have never had unit in garage--
in TX our inside units are up in attic--there are evaporator pans to catch ovrflow that does not go though the tubing--like if there is stuff IN the condensate line...

Maybe that is the problem now--tried to take cap off the white PVC tube at front of the unit but it wouldn't come off...
don't see any overt way the condensate cycles out...

we will be calling AC company in the AM but no idea if they can come out Monday--

any suggestions/comments as to what is happening?
if it better to turn it off?
no noise--no leaking in attic (my husband checked)...

[motordavid]

Could be as simple as the condensate tube is plugged, or not directed properly to outside drain.

Otoh, it could be the condenser is corroded/covered in mold, or compressor leaking/shot, or an ugly combo of many parts that have deteriorated due to age and use.

Most FL towns codes now require HVAC units to be placed inside a dwelling for newer construction, vs a garage or attic, as the unconditioned air in garage/attic exacerbates the eventual deterioration of the air handling, condenser, et al.

If the condenser coil is shot, some A/C companies may pitch a 'cleaning' and then spraying coil with a nasty zinc based spray paint, and installing a UV light to reduce/slow the formation of corroision and mold; I would take a Pasadena on that band aid, though a UV light in the handler condenser 'triangle' in retrofit handlers is not a bad idea.

It may be as severe a problem as your needing a new Handler and exterior unit...not fun, as I have been through it a couple of times in FL houses.

If it is the worst scenario, shop around quickly for a day or so, (not fun in your temps), and look for brands with single metal condenser coil vs bi metal. They corrode much more slowly in the unconditioned area that your unit seems to be situated in.

Good Luck, and you may need it...

No HVAC expert, other than I tried to get very layman informed before replacing previous units.
GL, mD

[loves2read]

Appreciate the info and your time--good to know about the one metal vs bi coil--
if we did need a new unit does that mean it would have to be installed INSIDE the house?
that could make for problems...
I know in one TX house where we replaced the water heater in a garage there was some retrofitting needed (new pan w/higher walls, bigger vent pipe to outside) when it was replaced because of code changes since original installation...

the unit cooled fine last night and is not throwing off any excess water--

I correct what I said about the condensor line--
It runs to the outside of garage by the door and small concrete door step/pad
don't know if my husband thought to check there last night to see if there was lot of water or none--
the area is usually damp because of condensate running through it

I am thinking the line is probably partially blocked and couldn't take the increased level of condendate after we had raised the temp and let it get warmer inside...

he doesn't want to call the AC people who installed our humidistat switch during the holidays--when we were here previously but I don't much like the idea of not knowing what is going on--and a line that is partially blocked is only going to get worse...

[motordavid]

Originally Posted by loves2read

Appreciate the info and your time--good to know about the one metal vs bi coil--
if we did need a new unit does that mean it would have to be installed INSIDE the house?
that could make for problems...
No, our new handler was installed in garage ceiling where the builder had placed it, several years before, and before local code req'd it to be inside vs unconditioned garage or attic. New compressor as installed outside in same spot as previous, as I suspect yours is...

I know in one TX house where we replaced the water heater in a garage there was some retrofitting needed (new pan w/higher walls, bigger vent pipe to outside) when it was replaced because of code changes since original installation...

the unit cooled fine last night and is not throwing off any excess water--
Might be coincidental, you may be lucky; our unit did the same, and then days later went dead.

I correct what I said about the condensor line--
It runs to the outside of garage by the door and small concrete door step/pad
don't know if my husband thought to check there last night to see if there was lot of water or none--
the area is usually damp because of condensate running through it

I am thinking the line is probably partially blocked and couldn't take the increased level of condendate after we had raised the temp and let it get warmer inside...
Could be.

he doesn't want to call the AC people who installed our humidistat switch during the holidays--when we were here previously but I don't much like the idea of not knowing what is going on--and a line that is partially blocked is only going to get worse...

I understand: A/C HVAC joints are like mushrooms after a long rain: everywhere. How to find an honest company that has several buying option brands/models, (assuming you may need new system), is like throwing darts.

I would ask neighbors who they rec'd, and call a few, and the first one that shows up, see what their diagnosis is. If you are faced with new handler/compressor, shop around...

If your unit is currently 'working', I would start looking around at companies and their products for a new install: better to bite the cost bullet and get units replaced on 'your time' vs your HVAC going Kaboom, and waiting a few days for an up against the wall instant decision on a replacement unit, and sitting around sweating bullets for days.

I had a first class HVAC operation company that did two of ours, but they are based in Naples/Ft Myers and I doubt they come as far north as Venice/Sarasota.

As for brands, there are several: our last episode was fixed via an American Standard brand model, with aluminum handler coil, external electronics on handler vs interior, (which get damp/moldy), 16 SEER, (I would not buy a 14 SEER or any brand or rating), and about a half ton 'larger' than what the cheap azz builder installed. It was ~$4Gs+ for handler, compressor tower, some parts and install, a couple years ago. YMMV...

My 50Cst...
Good Luck, mD

[loves2read]

we were happy with the HVAC company that installed te humidistat--
my husband just thought the problem would resolve itself

it started leaking again this evening
the overflow or condensate line is blocked--water is welling at the end where you are supposed to add bleach and prevent mold blocking the line.
The after-hours operator said she would leave message for the office to call when they open and schedule appt...

[Shabotnik]

loves2read:

I had what sounds like the same problem. I posted and got this:
Condensate Dribble - HVAC - Contractor Talk

[loves2read]

Thanks
I read that
Maybe the compressed air would work butmy husband is probably just as happy to pay for a service call
I will ask about the other points mentioned

I want the unit checked out
The thermostat doesnt seem to register temp correctly at times
At times very cold in house and temp shows 74 yet unit is running

[bbronston]

Do you have a wet/dry vac? If you do (or you want to get a little one for this and other small jobs), all you do is put the nozzle up to the drain tube outside and turn on the vac. It works and it is probably what the A/C company will do, anyway. You can probably buy a small vac for less than the service call.

[Scrat335]

Probably just a condensate line plugged up. Moisture content can affect the way air feels, the humidity in the house could be affecting the tstat. If the handler can't remove the moisture it will just recycle it. Clear the drain and have the unit checked out. If it's over 10 years I would recommend changing the whole thing both outside condenser and air handler. Anything made after 1990 IS NOT DESIGNED TO LAST!!

I'd go with Trane, Rheem or Ruud. Trane is more expensive and quieter while Rheem and Ruud are not as stylish and good looking and noisier but they are capable of absorbing all kinds of abuse and neglect, very rugged. If your condenser is away from the house I would go with the Rs. I got 18 years out of my Rheem. I maintained it myself.

[loves2read]

thanks for the info

my husband is pretty handy around the house with some things but HVAC he doesn't really mess with--except knowing how to light the gas furnace if the pilot goes out...or wash off the outside fan housing if it needs it...