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Old 11-04-2018, 05:26 AM
 
Location: Floyd Co, VA
3,513 posts, read 6,377,015 times
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Since I'm not a member of "the better classes", just a retired old blue collar worker I guess I won't be getting one.
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Old 11-04-2018, 10:22 AM
 
Location: SE corner of the Ozark Redoubt
8,918 posts, read 4,652,086 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zugor View Post
Since I'm not a member of "the better classes", just a retired old blue collar worker I guess I won't be getting one.
I won't be getting one either, since I am not in either yours, nor HiW's economic class,
but my only question is:
if you are going to be part of the problem, and not the solution,
why do you bother to post to this thread?
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Old 11-06-2018, 03:04 PM
 
Location: SW MO
1,127 posts, read 1,275,259 times
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Polaris is making a wheel/tire for a military grade UTV they are marketing that is not pneumatic, but instead is a rubber tread surface bonded to an articulating polymer(I think) wheel structure. Looks interesting, would be curious to see it adapted to on road use for automobiles.

Last edited by countryboy73; 11-06-2018 at 03:16 PM..
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Old 11-06-2018, 03:08 PM
 
Location: SW MO
1,127 posts, read 1,275,259 times
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Well, I was working from memory, went to check it out, and my curiousity is satisfied! Michelin makes them, run about 900 apiece. But they only market them for construction equipment and offroad vehicles currently. Say they still have development to do before using them on passenger vehicles. They do claim better side to side stability than pneumatic tires, which is a plus to those who might need such performance factors.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIzDu482mME

Last edited by countryboy73; 11-06-2018 at 03:27 PM.. Reason: Additonal info
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Old 11-07-2018, 04:15 PM
 
Location: SE corner of the Ozark Redoubt
8,918 posts, read 4,652,086 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by countryboy73 View Post
Well, I was working from memory, went to check it out, and my curiousity is satisfied! Michelin makes them, run about 900 apiece. But they only market them for construction equipment and offroad vehicles currently. Say they still have development to do before using them on passenger vehicles. They do claim better side to side stability than pneumatic tires, which is a plus to those who might need such performance factors.

[you-tube]
I used to drive mountainous terrain and rock roads on a tank gunnery range.

Never needed much in the way of side to side stability, other than a couple of slopes exiting parts of the range that were so steep we drove off the edge and recovered the slide after the slope mellowed, about 50 feet later. There pneumatic tires were sufficient on side to side stability, but we did rip the tread off of the cord from time to time. (Budget officer didn't much like my range )
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Old 11-14-2018, 12:43 AM
 
Location: Meadow Lakes, Alaska
300 posts, read 329,435 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy in Wyoming View Post


I've decided to install a run-flat system on one of my vehicles. I suggest that others consider doing the same. It's at worst a real convenience and at best a potential lifesaver regardless of the type of emergency. It beats an ordinary spare tire by several orders of magnitude. This seems to be the easiest item to address. There should be no problem finding local installation.


The second item for pickup owner is a plate across the back: I could probably install this myself.
What kind of run flat? And what do you mean a plate across the back? For?
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Old 11-14-2018, 10:32 AM
 
Location: SE corner of the Ozark Redoubt
8,918 posts, read 4,652,086 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechsix View Post
What kind of run flat? And what do you mean a plate across the back? For?
He is talking about tires that can continue to run after they have a hole in them. They lose some of their performance edge, and in most cases, should be kept under 50 mph and driven for no more than 50 miles, but that can get you to somewhere safer to stop.

The plat across the back he is talking about is a steel, kevlar, or some other kind of armor between the driver and the bed of the truck (or he might possibly mean across the tailgate, but I think not). It would be to keep someone from pulling up behind you and putting a bullet in the back of your head.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:12 PM
 
Location: Cody, WY
10,420 posts, read 14,602,965 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRex2 View Post
He is talking about tires that can continue to run after they have a hole in them. They lose some of their performance edge, and in most cases, should be kept under 50 mph and driven for no more than 50 miles, but that can get you to somewhere safer to stop.
That is correct. For the benefit of those who have not read this thread, there is a link in a previous post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRex2 View Post
The plate across the back he is talking about is a steel, kevlar, or some other kind of armor between the driver and the bed of the truck (or he might possibly mean across the tailgate, but I think not). It would be to keep someone from pulling up behind you and putting a bullet in the back of your head.
I'm talking about a steel plate in the rear of the cab from the floor to the bottom of the window. Heavy glass is indicated for the window. For the benefit of those who have not read this thread, there is a link in a previous post.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:47 PM
 
Location: Meadow Lakes, Alaska
300 posts, read 329,435 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy in Wyoming View Post
That is correct. For the benefit of those who have not read this thread, there is a link in a previous post.

I'm talking about a steel plate in the rear of the cab from the floor to the bottom of the window. Heavy glass is indicated for the window. For the benefit of those who have not read this thread, there is a link in a previous post.

OK, but as I asked in the previous post - what kind of run flat?

Foam filled? Solids? Solid insert, greased all to hell and gone, inside a standard radial?

All of them have definite pro/con issues.


As to the steel plate, up armoring helps but again comes with issues one has to deal with. If I was going to armor up a standard vehicle, I'd be looking at poly/UHMWPE armor, or getting a roll or two of something like Kevlar 29 or 44. All Kevlar is not the same, by the way, there are lots of variants. Then you'll have to deal with cutting, sewing, etc that Kevlar.

Running ceramics is heavy also, especially any home made ceramics.

Steel is just too heavy to deal with, unless you're also going to modify other elements of the vehicle - suspension, body mounts, etc.
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:59 PM
 
Location: SE corner of the Ozark Redoubt
8,918 posts, read 4,652,086 times
Reputation: 9242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechsix View Post
...
Steel is just too heavy to deal with, unless you're also going to modify other elements of the vehicle - suspension, body mounts, etc.
Depending on the vehicle, you may need a little extra in the springs,
and if you are going to do any aggressive driving on a regular basis,
you will want to beef up the whole suspension package.

The weight of the armor is why I said (Re: post #50) it might be a good idea to only armor the parts of the vehicle likely to be in between a shooter and unarmored parts of the the driver.
The simple law of mathematics is that the further the plate is from the person it is protecting the more
it will weigh.

Every stage of building or modifying an armored vehicle requires planning, compensation, and compromise. That is just the nature of the science. I have mentioned a few times that a lone tank is something I can easily kill, so nothing in invincible. There are always trade offs.
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