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None. If it is supposed to bear fruit then on our property it is sure to die. Only plants in the discount bin seem to like our soil. Maybe they know it's their last shot at life. Our land use to be a tobacco field. Our soil needs an obscene amount of amending for something to grow well. We've decided that our apple orchard is best left to the deer. They seem to enjoy it. At least someone does. It's a source of anxiety for my husband
None. If it is supposed to bear fruit then on our property it is sure to die. Only plants in the discount bin seem to like our soil. Maybe they know it's their last shot at life. Our land use to be a tobacco field. Our soil needs an obscene amount of amending for something to grow well. We've decided that our apple orchard is best left to the deer. They seem to enjoy it. At least someone does. It's a source of anxiety for my husband
Iam with you Dchapman, would love to see some specific varieties that do well in our climate although I think I planted all my space away this year. I planted several varieties of peach, two of which are going to give me some peaches any day now. Peaches, I think produce quicker than most varieties. Ive planted them before in Boone and had a few good years (best taste ever) before they started getting blight although I never sprayed them with anything. This time Iam not going to be so stubborn and use some copper fungicide.
I planted a honeyglo containerized nectarine and got about 8 decent nectarines out of it but the flavor wasnt quite there. Hopefully next year..
What Iam most excited about are my cherry trees. I planted two new varieties from BB barns, a Blackyork (eastern bing) and Regina. They are supposed to do better in our difficult climate but we shall see. I bought both of these in 3 gallon pots and they are very impressive for the money I think. They look ready to produce next year. With species that take awhile to fruit like cherry and blueberry, the older and bigger the container the better.
There is so much conflicting info out there on the best way to plant them. Its best to add organic material well ahead of planting time but who has time for all that? I saw lots of successful examples out there of people that did no fully bury the root ball (like the coop ext link advises) so I took that approach. People also debate on whether to dig in the organic material amendments or leave it all native and just mulch.
For the fruit tress, I dug maybe a third of the depth of the rootball into the native soil and piled a mound around the rest with pine bark fines, rotted sawdust and some compost. I think this approach is important for drainage but it does mean you have to water more especially in the beginning. With the exception of the Regina cherry they all have outstanding vegetative growth. I think the trick of course is getting to the fruit harvest with little disease.
My blueberries have wildly exceeded my expectations. The 3 gallon pots I planted in the ground this spring gave me a couple pints of blueberries already. Their vegetative growth has exploded and it looks like I will have more than enough for fresh eating and freezing next year. Why I didnt plant them 5 years ago? I thought they took that long to produce.. With those I dug deep into the native soil, placed some logs for hugelculture and backfilled with pine bark fines, peat moss and compost. Added amendments like hollytone, bone meal, greensand and have been watering with fish emulsion. Highly recommend blueberries in our climate based on my experience so far.
Any idea what cultivar and what did you spray with?
Um, nope - LOL. I'm barely over a year into this house and last summer, was spent working on inside projects and I thought it was because it rained so much that the leaves fell off. So I used a basic plant fungicide because I thought it was mold. I guess that's not right - I don't know what to do with it, so in my usual fashion, I've pretty much done nothing.
Well thanks for that leaf spot link. Treatment looks a little more complex than I had hoped but maybe because mine are sweet and not sour, I may not get it so bad. Resistant cultivars are everything huh..
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I've treated it two seasons in a row and can't get it to stop 
