Part of the Outer Banks’ charm is the remoteness of the area. Since it’s accessible only by ferry or by driving over one of the bridges that connects it to the mainland, once you’re here you feel far removed from the rest of the world. It’s really not that far. And in recent years, with an ever-growing tourism industry, goods and services have come to us. It’s fascinating to hear locals tell of long drives to stores on the mainland to buy groceries or to receive medical care back in the old days. The “old days,” however, were barely 25 years ago. Those of us who live here year-round still make excursions to nearby cities for specific services, shopping, and cultural events, but we wouldn’t trade island life for anything. Living here is a trade-off that is heavily weighted toward the good life; we’re blessed, and we know it.
Welcome to the land of beginnings! Feast your senses on wide beaches, whispering sea oats, and undulating dunes—a land where the pace of life is geared to the unceasing sand-sharpened breezes and wild winds. From the gifts and punishment of the glorious and untamed waters of these indomitable islands have sprung heroes, pioneers, pirates, and inventors. Tales of courage and creativity, bloody battles and savage shipwrecks, resourcefulness and compassion: All are part of the mystique of the Outer Banks. Here the first English colonists set up camp. Blackbeard and his band of buccaneers anchored sloops along the shallow sounds. Wilbur and Orville Wright flew the world’s first airplane, buoyed by stiff winds and brazen determination, and Billy Mitchell proved airpower to the world. From remote national wildlife refuges, sheltered seashores, and protected maritime forests to upscale resort communities, these strips of shifting sand offer both peaceful retreat and awesome adventure. Kitesurf or Jet Ski. Surf fish or stroll the endless beaches. Charter a deep-sea fishing boat to fight an ocean giant. Grab the binoculars and watch birds. Soar from the East Coast’s highest sand dune in a hang glider. Catch some waves and surf some of the best swells on the Atlantic Seaboard as breakers barrel toward the beach. It’s all here for the choosing, and boredom is not an option.
Despite its rise as a favorite resort destination, the Outer Banks continues to be a casual place. Shorts and sandals are accepted garb in even the finest establishments. Shrimp, crab, and dozens of species of fresh-caught fish (often hauled in that very day by Outer Banks fishermen) are available at nearly every one of the slew of restaurants that serves tourists and locals alike.
While you’re trekking the dunes, frolicking in the pristine waters, or enjoying the Carolina blue skies and soothing sunsets, don’t forget that these overgrown sandbars have provided the setting for some of the most dramatic moments in American history. Remember that you are walking the sands of some of the most dynamic barrier islands on earth. Some things have stayed the same since Sir Walter Raleigh’s party first laid eyes on Roanoke Island more than 400 years ago. These barrier beaches still startle visitors as well as natives with their rugged beauty and capricious topography. The fragile landscape remains at the mercy of the sea, furious with storm one day, calm the next.
Summer isn’t the only time to enjoy the Outer Banks, although the season from Memorial Day through Labor Day is by far the most packed with people and things to do. Fall offers fabulous fishing and windsurfing, spring brings bird watching and bicycling, and winter is deliciously devoid of almost everyone. Spend time here and you’ll understand why many of us came back to stay—or never left.
The Outer Banks is known for its sparkling, clean beaches. Sun worshipers from all parts of the world come to the Outer Banks to delight in the surf. But the ocean is fickle and can change its mood in the blink of an eye. Each beach is different, and to stay safe you need to follow a few rules. Store these tips along with your seashells to help make your stay a comfortable and safe one.
To become a true Outer Banks insider, you must develop a relaxed attitude and deep respect for nature, especially the weather. Outer Bankers’ lives are ruled by nature’s temperaments. From the calm, humid, and sunny days of early summer to the windy days of autumn and the raw days of winter nor’easters, you’ll marvel at the variable weather conditions. And then spring, both warm and cold, sunny and rainy, comes around again.
The interplay of sand, land, water, and wind is the primal force that drives life on these barrier islands. During your visit, even if you’re not inclined toward contemplation, slow down and spend some time getting acquainted with your temporary habitat and with what makes it unique.
Overview
Bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the east and a vast expanse of sound waters to the west, and connected in between by waterways and wetlands, the Outer Banks is among the most fascinating and complex habitats in North America. The Gulf Stream and the continental shelf’s edge influence us from a mere 37 miles away. Cradled within our boundaries are several unusual maritime forests, and Cape Hatteras marks the dividing line for northern and southern animal and plant species.
Because of our geographic location and environmental offerings, animal lovers from the world over come to the Outer Banks to sight rare pelagic birds, breaching humpbacks, and nesting waterfowl. Even manatees and harbor seals have visited our shores. Anglers ply the waters for anything from the humble flounder to the majestic blue marlin. Botanists study our ancient live oaks. Writers hole up in wooden beach cottages and ponder how poetically the wind howls. Families return year after year, generation after generation, to splash among the waves, explore tidal zones for sealife, and canvass the shores for colorful shells.
While the old-timers rightfully argue that things have changed dramatically here since the 1970s, there’s always been a constant: We are at the mercy of the forces of nature. Our dependency is clear: Nature feeds us, creates and crumbles livelihoods, offers unlimited free entertainment, is the artist’s muse, and sends us scurrying for shelter at a whim.
In this chapter we’ll introduce you to the land and its wonders, shaped by our bountiful waters and our crazy Outer Banks weather.
Insiders have self-imposed, state, and national restrictions on game fishing. We support tag-and-release programs and escort infant loggerhead sea turtles off the sand and into the water. Young and old alike participate annually in a nationwide coastal cleanup. All we ask of our visitors is that you treat the area’s fragile ecosystem with care. This vacation paradise is home not only for us but also for our less vocal friends who thrive on the air, sea, and land.
When some people dream of retirement, they might picture themselves strolling along stretches of deserted beaches on a mild winter afternoon. Perhaps later they would enjoy a round of golf with friends on an award-winning course to be followed by a good meal at one of many area restaurants. Sound too good to be true? It’s possible right here on the Outer Banks. But beware, this isn’t your normal retirement community! The retirees here eagerly pursue an active lifestyle, participating in the many activities the beach has to offer. Many seniors also enjoy working with the public, filling a spot in the workplace through retail sales or other tourist-oriented jobs. As for fun activities, the senior centers offer all kinds of group trips and classes.
If you’re thinking of retiring to the Outer Banks, you’re in good company. Each year it seems that more retirees are lured to these barrier islands by some sort of siren call. Moderate winters (remarkably quiet due to the small year-round population) provide for a tranquil environment, and 90-plus miles of broad, soft-sand beaches might figure into the equation as well. North Carolina is now the third most attractive state to retirees, after Florida and Arizona.
These are retirement locations that tend to attract early-retiring baby boomers who are seeking out relatively remote areas on the water where outdoor recreation is an integral part of life. Options for any type of dwelling abound all along the Outer Banks. If you’re looking for a seaside mansion in a gated community, you’ll find it. And if your tastes lean more toward a bungalow in the woods or to a traditional three-bedroom home with a yard, you’ll find those, too.
Overview
If you’re looking for property, check out the Real Estate and Area Overview chapters before you start shopping. For information on our community’s senior services, read on.
Seniors are encouraged to participate in the Outer Banks Senior Games sponsored by Dare County Older Adult Services. But be warned, these senior athletes are a dedicated and talented bunch, capable of putting much younger athletes to shame. This is a year-round program to promote health and fitness for Dare County residents age 55 and older. Competition events include track and field, bicycle racing, swimming, tennis, bowling, golf, softball and football throwing, basketball shooting, archery, shuffleboard, billiards, horseshoes, and croquet. Medal winners automatically qualify to compete at the North Carolina Senior Games in September. Besides athletics, there is a Silver Competition for the visual and performing arts. See the listings in the Annual Events chapter under April, or call the Thomas A. Baum Center, (252) 441-1811, for more information.