City: Portland, OR

Category: Tours & Attractions

Description: Mount St. Helens was once known as “the Mount Fuji of America” because its symmetrical beauty was reminiscent of the famous Japanese volcano. But on May 18, 1980, after nearly two months of smaller earthquakes and steam eruptions, Mount St. Helens began a series of massive, explosive eruptions after an earthquake with a magnitude of 5.1 struck at 8:32 a.m. Within seconds, the volcano’s unstable and bulging north flank slid away in the largest landslide in recorded history, triggering a destructive blast of lethal hot gas, steam, and rock debris that swept across the landscape at 684 mph. Temperatures reached as high as 572 degrees Celsius, melting snow and ice on the volcano and forming torrents of water and rock debris that gushed down river valleys leading from the mountain. Within minutes, a massive plume of ash thrust nearly 12½ miles into the sky, where the wind carried about 490 tons of ash across more than 22,000 square miles of the western United States and, in trace amounts, around the world.The lateral blast, which lasted only the first few minutes of a nine-hour continuous eruption, devastated 250 square miles of forest and recreation area, killed thousands of animals, and left 57 people dead. The eruptions and huge avalanche removed about 4 billion cubic yards of the mountain, including about 170 million cubic yards of glacial snow and ice. The eruption also caused mudflows so severe that they blocked the shipping channel of the Columbia River 70 river miles away. The volcano periodically spewed steam and ash for several years, eventually settling down enough for the region to rebuild. In 1982 President Ronald Reagan designated 110,000 acres around the volcano as Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. Trails, campgrounds, and visitor centers were established to accommodate the thousands who visited each year.Now Mount St. Helens is one of the most popular day-trip destinations in the Pacific Northwest. It is an easy, scenic two-and-a-half-hour drive from Portland. There is a lot to do and see on this trip, so start early in the morning and pack some ice and refreshments in the cooler. Take I-5 to exit 49 (the Toutle/Castle Rock exit), which will lead you onto Washington SR 504 (Spirit Lake Memorial Highway). The first stop, just 5 miles east, is the Mount St. Helens Volcanic Monument Visitor Center (360-274-0962) at Seaquest State Park on the shore of Silver Lake. Don’t miss the scaled-down, walk-in replica of the volcano: It really helps kids (and grown-ups, too) understand what’s behind all the blasting. A short and easy trail just outside the center leads to a viewpoint overlooking Silver Lake and Mount St. Helens. This facility is operated by Washington State Parks; there is a $3 fee per adult for visiting ($1 for children older than 6), but it is worth it.Continue driving east past some of the most striking scenery in the Northwest, from the washed-out stretches of the Toutle River to the white carcasses of the fir trees that laid themselves down before the awesome power of the volcanic blast. SR 504 winds around the north fork of the Toutle River, and overlooks along the road offer views of the crater, Castle Lake, Coldwater Lake, and the mountain’s northwest lava dome. Hoffstadt Bluffs Rest Area offers a spectacular view of the landslide that preceded the blast. Elk Rock Viewpoint offers another stunning view into the still sediment-choked Toutle River Valley.Just 5 miles farther up the road from Coldwater Ridge, SR 504 ends at Johnston Ridge Observatory (milepost 52; 360-274-2140). Only 4 miles from the volcano’s crater, this wheelchair-accessible-site affords views of the inside of the crater and its dome. It was named in honor of brave geologist David Johnston, who was keeping watch over the mountain for the US Geological Survey and whose final words warned the world of what was to come. This magnificent center is a fitting tribute. The center also offers an incredibly high-quality movie about the eruption, along with many fascinating, interactive displays and kiosks. There is much to do on the mountain, so you’ll have some decisions to make. Ask for a map of Mount St. Helens at one of the visitor centers or on the website—it will help you understand your options. One great adventure is to circle the entire mountain by following improved forest roads. It is possible to do this from June until the first snowfall—usually in Nov or Dec. Other monument highlights include Windy Ridge and Spirit Lake, which rose 70 yards as a result of the blast. Consult with visitor center staff about selecting the best route. You will need a pass to visit the tourist centers at the monument. These can be purchased at any of the visitor centers. Adult multiuse passes are $8; children 15 and under are free. Discounts for seniors are also available. The monument is open year-round, though Johnston Ridge and some of the viewpoints and trails are closed by snow from Oct through May. The visitor centers may be on limited schedules during the winter. If the volcano is active, it may be closed to climbers, though barring a major eruption, the other monument sites tend to remain open.Pets are welcome at some parts of the monument, but dogs must be leashed where they are permitted. Some areas with especially delicate ecosystems prohibit pets altogether. Take notice of signs. Excellent picnic and day-use areas are plentiful, but there are few places to purchase food. No overnight accommodations are available on the grounds of the monument, but nearby towns offer lodging, camping, and supplies. For the most spectacular views of the crater, try to go on a sunny, summer day. But do remember that it is the Northwest, and even sunny days can bring clouds to the mountaintops. On October 1, 2004, the volcano awoke from its slumber, emitting steam and erupting ash to signal a new phase of geological activity, which is ongoing, rebuilding the dome of the mountain. A volcanic eruption puts daily cares in perspective like nothing else, and despite the potential danger, residents have been enthralled by the reminder that Mount St. Helens has a mind of its own.