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I've used them and love them. They work particularly well in cars with smaller engines because the added airflow can give it a slight (but noticeable) boost in horsepower. Put one in my 2001 Rav4 and my hubby's '06 Civic with good results. I don't necessarily buy them for the longevity, but that is an added bonus. Also, you can get them online significantly cheaper than the auto parts stores.
How did you measure this boost in horsepower? The proverbial "butt dyno?"
To whiteboyslo got any info from a test to show your position?
I did or is your saying so make it so?
Yeah. 3 years experience as an engineer for an aerospace filter manufacturer, actually. Sorry I don't have a website to quote with 'highly' scientific tests run with $30 of Home Depot stuff and a Miata to quote.
To be fair, I was their Manufacturing Engineer, not the Design. But if you work in a place long enough that's that small and have a natural curiousity towards anything automotive-related (as I do), you pick up A LOT. Suffice it to say, after you see the real deal when it comes to filtration design and testing, you come to realize most advertisements and online 'anlayses' you find are utter nonsense.
I'm not saying Bob's test isn't enlightening, but there's a million holes to poke in his methodology and his analysis. And just having a website doesn't make one an authority on anything.
And again, I'm not saying the K&N is just as good if not better when it comes to filtration. That all depends on the media they chose. I'm just saying the idea that a filter cannot both flow well and filter well is nonsense.
Mike
Last edited by whiteboyslo; 09-08-2011 at 01:26 PM..
Not much of any internal mods need to be done to a diesel to run 30psi of boost, most have a inter-cooler, that I don't want to be covered with oil. A fuel rail shim will take care for that for now
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Ahhhh.. You're a diesel guy.. Now I understand where the big boost numbers are coming from. I though we were talking gas engines... The whole Turbo sizing and filter sizing deal goes right out the window as the turbos, piping and filters on those things are more than adequate to flow the air required for 1000+ hp. Just add fuel and turn up the boost. Nice to finally talk to another turbo junky that knows what he's talking about.
Actually when I used to race I kept a new paper filter just for racing. I also at times ran no filter at filter change tome is keep the race paper filter in and buy a new paper filter and make it my new paper filter.
For me I can buy 6-7 paper filters for a cost of a k&n. Throw in a recharge kit and I can buy 2 more filters.
So 8-9. Paperhaha filters. Or a filter I have to mantain myself and I really get it "clean" by finding it out.... Also risk contaminating the MAF. Figure every 6k-8k on changes so 54k-72k miles? Do you intend to run the same filter you "hose out" that long.
It's a filter its dispoable....
My opinion for racing a new paper filter is better then a used k&n, even freshly recharged.
My background... I lived 7 miles from a dragstrip from age18 to 26. Had over 1,000 passes and have done a lot of autocrossing and some roadracing.
The poll results are 13, 14 right now. That's not exactly helping my decision making. I think I'm going to stick with paper filters for now. The K&N might save some money over the long run, but I'm feeling thrifty for the short run. Thank you all for voting and posting.
Flow and filtration it takes more psi or vac to pull air threw a filter that has a high micron rating thus slowing down the flow. A lower micron rating will flow easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by duster1979
You would also think that they would design their vehicles to work with a single universal oil filter, but that hasn't happened either.
The only proublem is some use 6qt or less and some use 3gal or more. so I don't think one size will fit all.
We would be hy-jacking this thread as the difference in flow and filtering micron rating in oil filters is eminence.
absolute or nominal , multi pass or single pass
Quote:
Originally Posted by johna01374
Ahhhh.. You're a diesel guy.. Now I understand where the big boost numbers are coming from. I though we were talking gas engines... The whole Turbo sizing and filter sizing deal goes right out the window as the turbos, piping and filters on those things are more than adequate to flow the air required for 1000+ hp. Just add fuel and turn up the boost. Nice to finally talk to another turbo junky that knows what he's talking about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangEater82
Actually when I used to race I kept a new paper filter just for racing. I also at times ran no filter at filter change tome is keep the race paper filter in and buy a new paper filter and make it my new paper filter.
For me I can buy 6-7 paper filters for a cost of a k&n. Throw in a recharge kit and I can buy 2 more filters.
So 8-9. Paperhaha filters. Or a filter I have to mantain myself and I really get it "clean" by finding it out.... Also risk contaminating the MAF. Figure every 6k-8k on changes so 54k-72k miles? Do you intend to run the same filter you "hose out" that long.
It's a filter its dispoable....
My opinion for racing a new paper filter is better then a used k&n, even freshly recharged.
My background... I lived 7 miles from a dragstrip from age18 to 26. Had over 1,000 passes and have done a lot of autocrossing and some roadracing.
Sent from my autocorrect butchering device.
On my race engines (boat) I only use a screen/flame arestor to keep the rocks, weeds and sticks out. coastguard approved of course.
Another draw back is washing the k&n, some will use the hose to squirt threw the media while others will use some war or hot water in the kitchen sink, both methods can damage the filter.
Then there is the I just washed my filter and I can't do a thing with it until it drys..
Cleaning them takes time and you have to buy the chemicals. If you assign any value to your time, it does not save money. I saw no difference in performance or mileage. Eventually I just threw the K & N away. Not worth the hassle.
How did you measure this boost in horsepower? The proverbial "butt dyno?"
LOL, butt dyno, I like that! Nothing scientific, just how I felt the car performed for me. The Rav only had 145 HP and didn't have enough get up and go for my driving preference. I'm not saying everyone needs one or should get one, I'm just simply saying that it worked for me in my situation and made enough of a difference to notice. I also put one in my hubby's 1.8L Civic and while very slight, I could tell the difference. YMMV.
LOL, butt dyno, I like that! Nothing scientific, just how I felt the car performed for me. The Rav only had 145 HP and didn't have enough get up and go for my driving preference. I'm not saying everyone needs one or should get one, I'm just simply saying that it worked for me in my situation and made enough of a difference to notice. I also put one in my hubby's 1.8L Civic and while very slight, I could tell the difference. YMMV.
Was your comparison from an old filter to a new clean filter? Or a clean filter to a k&n?
Sent from my autocorrect butchering device.
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at filter change tome is keep the race paper filter in and buy a new paper filter and make it my new paper filter.
