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OP, you WILL have this issue coming back at you, and you WILL be tossing $$ at this, unless you BED THE ROTORS AND PADS right after install. As in - instantly.
I am not aware of any of them brake places doing this for customers and truly, why would they? More wind into their sales.
Sounds like it's rotors. If it were something else, you would most likely have the problem even when not braking.
Make sure they check the rear brakes/rotors as well.
Personally, I always replace rotors along with brake pads. Rotors are pretty much considered an expendable item these days, you can get them for pretty cheap unlike the old days when you had to have them cut.
Personally, I always replace rotors along with brake pads. Rotors are pretty much considered an expendable item these days, you can get them for pretty cheap unlike the old days when you had to have them cut.
Cheap? Not to everyone. I spent over $700 last year on new pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. Wouldn't say that was cheap!
By cheap, he was talking about the rotors. They're generally around $25 each, these days. If they are turnable, that will usually cost around $10-15 each. Most people just get new rotors. In the days when cars were much heavier, the front rotors (back end were usually drum brakes) were usually quite large and had an embedded bearing and race. That style of rotor was $40-50 nearly 20 years ago. Almost everyone would have them turned.
$700 for pads and rotors is pretty steep, though. What kind of vehicle is it?
I had my front brakes replaced less then 6 months ago at brake max
I have an 2011 Toyota corolla
recently my steering wheel is shaking when I hit the brake
do you know what that could be.....
I was told its my Rotors
do you know how much this is to fix
thanks nancy
'Warped' rotors don't occur on street cars, at street speeds...
-The rotors may have pad/corrosion build up and be affected in that way.
-Slight, careful machining may help the rotors, but it does peel off some of the rotor meat. If not done carefully, they will be 'better' for about a week.
-thrust arm bushings are a factor in many brands of cars.
-wheel weights flung off, or tire wear that is substantially different than previous wheel balancing adjusted for, are also a possibility.
-lug nut torque improper, though low on the list, is easiest to check.
As it is only 6 months after a 'brake job', I would take it back and be firm on the shop checking rotor wear and pad thickness. They may/probably will dance the OP around and offer a reduced price 're-do' or sell suspension work/alignment.
If it were me, and the shop carefully checked the brakes and did some brake component re-do for free or a very reduced fee, I would drive it and see how they did. If that shop was simply selling you more 'brakes' or other stuff, I would decline and find a different shop; every town in the US has at least one Toyota oriented Indie repair place. I would avoid the dealer, off warranty.
GL, mD
Huh?? This car has rack & pinion steering and does not use an idler or pitman arm.
Did not bother to copy and paste the link but can't see how its relevant.
A shaking steering wheel upon brake application IS a rotor problem.
Don in Austin
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Rotors???
