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This idea that one would HAVE to replace the caliper without knowing what is going on is really inane.
The ones here that have advised cleaning/freeing the caliper at least as a first step are giving you the correct advice Viking. No need to replace a part if it can be restored to original operating condition.
This idea that one would HAVE to replace the caliper without knowing what is going on is really inane.
The ones here that have advised cleaning/freeing the caliper at least as a first step are giving you the correct advice Viking. No need to replace a part if it can be restored to original operating condition.
I always start with the cheapest & easiest solution possible. Honestly though, that's usually not where the problem lies. Even so, it's worth a shot.
There's also a common-sense point at which it's not worth it to do expensive work on an older high-mileage car that (for instance) a college student just wants to hang onto for another couple months until he graduates. I recently had a nephew wondering if it was worth it to put all new shocks & struts under his rusty old 86 Saab 900, with 200,000+ miles. In light of the fact that all of his brakes (and rotors) were shot - and I do mean SHOT - the easy answer was, "absolutely not."
There are too many of these "chain stores" that lure people in by advertising cheap oil changes, then scare the living crap out of the them by telling them everything that's wrong with their car - and that the car is unsafe to drive - in an attempt to soak the owners for thousands of dollars of repairs they don't need.
For somebody who doesn't do their own work, it is EXTREMELY important to find a GOOD mechanic who you can trust. Then listen to him.
That's what I would think too. Of course, he doesn't do the work himself. And my guess is that most certified mechanics would balk at installing parts you take to their shop.
But that's just a guess.
It would be do able, but the car is sorely needed, I drive 60 miles a day, 4 days a week, and I don't have a spare vehicle, I wouldn't have time to wait for the parts to arrive in the mail.
Had it been summer, my options would've been greater.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deepcynic
Wow...
This idea that one would HAVE to replace the caliper without knowing what is going on is really inane.
The ones here that have advised cleaning/freeing the caliper at least as a first step are giving you the correct advice Viking. No need to replace a part if it can be restored to original operating condition.
They're still malfunctioning, so I'm talking to a shop tomorrow, I trust them and they do good affordable work, hopefully they can refurbish it at not too high of a price and replace the brake fluid.
Don't worry, I won't listen to some "mechanic" who seems to know nothing else than how to replace one part with another part, and spends his time calling people names.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omaha Rocks
There's also a common-sense point at which it's not worth it to do expensive work on an older high-mileage car that (for instance) a college student just wants to hang onto for another couple months until he graduates. I recently had a nephew wondering if it was worth it to put all new shocks & struts under his rusty old 86 Saab 900, with 200,000+ miles. In light of the fact that all of his brakes (and rotors) were shot - and I do mean SHOT - the easy answer was, "absolutely not."
For somebody who doesn't do their own work, it is EXTREMELY important to find a GOOD mechanic who you can trust. Then listen to him.
And herein is the problem, he he. The car is too close to being sold (approx. 6 months), and too old to throw any significant amount of money after it, the fact that I don't currently have an income obviously comes to play as well.
The problem is that it still holds a fairly decent value, if working, with bum brakes, I'll get a fraction of what it's worth. So I'm in somewhat of a damned if I do damned if I don't situation.
I'll lose any money I put into it, but I'll lose even more money if I sell it in it's current state, so I'm going to have to accept the loss and take it in.
Hopefully they can clean it up and grease/lube etc what's needed and have it working again, with not too much labor cost. Either way, it's a reputable place, they don't try and take your money for the sake of it.
Thanks for all the suggestions, had it been warmer I'd definitely have tried them.
There are too many of these "chain stores" that lure people in by advertising cheap oil changes, then scare the living crap out of the them by telling them everything that's wrong with their car - and that the car is unsafe to drive - in an attempt to soak the owners for thousands of dollars of repairs they don't need.
This is something that some shops don't quite understand. If I own a car that is worth $1-$2k.....It's highly unlikely that I'm going to want to replace anything on it that would cost in excess of $500.
"Yes...I know it sucks....I can't really afford a car that doesn't suck....and you swapping out a few parts making it temporarily suck slightly less isn't that appealing to me."
It seems like some people also don't understand that certain folks, especially who's interested in cars, know how to adapt their driving, or how to react should something fail, if you drive with something that's less than optimal.
My gf currently drives an absolutely horrible Ford Escort, because it was all she could afford at the time. There's certain things you have to adjust for when using it, but it's still drivable...when the radiators not falling apart, hehe.
You are a nuclear blowhard...! You are a back yard jack #ff who is taking chances every time you touch a wrench to a car. Do it your way, just don't interpret your way as the correct way. What you are proposing is no different than suggesting a housewife do some nuclear repair. You got lucky if you have had no problems.
I say again, go into business and see if you have that same, naive attitude
All it takes is one lawsuit to get your head straight. I shan't continue to argue with one so ignorant...
You couldn't make a pimple on a mechanic's butt...!
Oh yeah? Quote from my post what I am recommending that's unsafe, as in unsafe to the driver, not to your paycheck. There is nothing unsafe in "exercising" a caliper, it's a normal and legitimate technique to free up a slightly sticky piston, which at least around here is pretty common, particularly if a car has not been driven for a while.
You have yet to explain why I have not yet killed myself with my incompetent wrenching, since I have had over 35 years worth of opportunity to do so. I seriously doubt you work to my standards, very few "professional" shops do. If I am not a damn good mechanic, how come I can daily drive an 82 Scirocco that runs perfectly, and in fact is in considerably better mechanical shape than the day I bought it? And the M3? And the MG-B? Well?
You and your liability. This guy is not running a shop and he's in Norway, WTF do you know about Norwegian liability law? Probably about as much as you actually know about brakes.
You are probably a 12-year old kid in reality who has been playing too much World of Warfare or similar.
Nayabone - I am disappointed in your attitude. It is usually good to hear from people who make their living servicing cars.
But for you to claim that DIY repairs are simply unsafe is ridiculous.
Can a backyard mechanic screw up brakes? Sure. Do repair shop mechanics screw up brakes? I bet they do too.
One thing about DIYers like many here is that because we are servicing our own vehicles we take MORE time, MORE care, etc. doing maintenance. We don't care how much profit the shop needs to make.
Update: I went to the Repair Shop today, and they're as good as they've always been.
They will take it apart and lubricate/grease what needs that to see if that's enough, he said they'd only charge me for one hour for the job (!!), of course if they see that the caliper is bust, they'll call and confirm before putting a new one in it's place, but he said it sounded like there was a good chance the lubing + brake fluid change would do the trick.
All in all, they'll charge me one hour labor for the caliper and about $140 for the brake fluid change (which is very reasonable here.) In total, approx: $260.
I love those guys
Thanks for all the help, sounds like you were right M3 Mitch
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