Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
There are plenty of them out there. If I wanted to buy one as a starter RV, what would I have to look for? Go beyond the obvious... everyone could tell when there's been a roof leak... I'm interested in knowing what is likely to fail on such units.
I could always get an inspection done... I'd have to find someone decent to do it though. For now I just want some information... information that would show me why I can get an older class C for $2500 (even though they say it runs & drives and needs nothing) when new ones are like $60,000... or an older travel trailer for $2000 when the new ones are like $20,000.
I imagine they're like cars... but from my perspective, I have bought some really cheap cars that have served me impressively well. I figure I can do that with an RV as well. Just wanted to know what to look for.
There are plenty of them out there. If I wanted to buy one as a starter RV, what would I have to look for? Go beyond the obvious... everyone could tell when there's been a roof leak... I'm interested in knowing what is likely to fail on such units.
I could always get an inspection done... I'd have to find someone decent to do it though. For now I just want some information... information that would show me why I can get an older class C for $2500 (even though they say it runs & drives and needs nothing) when new ones are like $60,000... or an older travel trailer for $2000 when the new ones are like $20,000.
I imagine they're like cars... but from my perspective, I have bought some really cheap cars that have served me impressively well. I figure I can do that with an RV as well. Just wanted to know what to look for.
So you think everyone could tell if there's been a roof leak, huh? LOL
Would you think to look under the couch or behind the fridge? Water has been known to some pretty obscure places in an RV.
That said, motorhomes and trailers are apples and oranges.
Older trailers may be cheap because the cushions are worn, the floors are soft, the appliances are tired (or even non-functional), etc. . They may also be heavier to tow, the brake systems may not function, the tires may be past their best before date. And they are old.
Motorhomes have all the dimensions associated with a trailer plus an engine and powertrain to consider.
Your usage of the unit may also be a consideration. Some RV parks are now placing age limits on units that staying for more than a few days.
Good points above. An old RV can be a real buy. Here is an example of a problem that is getting tougher to fix. Air conditioning in the old days used refrigerant gas that is now not generally available. The stuff that is still out there is pricey... don't ask how i know.
Point is that there is a reliability vs cost of repair factor that you will need to consider. A lot of RVs have had the wheels run off them, others have been sitting in a heated garage for years. Finding the garage RV is certainly desirable in my opinion and takes plenty of looking to find a good value, especially when considering older rigs.
everyone could tell when there's been a roof leak....
LOL. Sorry but that has to be one of the funniest statements I have read in a long time..... Ya you keep believing that and I have a bridge I would like to sell you also.
If your looking to buy anything used hire a very qualified person to do a complete inspection of any unit you have interest in, I have heard way to many horror stories of people buying a used RV "for such a great deal" only to spend well more in repairs then what the actual unit cost
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,690 posts, read 57,994,855 times
Reputation: 46171
Quote:
Originally Posted by RomaniGypsy
.... Go beyond the obvious... everyone could tell when there's been a roof leak... I'm interested in knowing what is likely to fail on such units.
....
In my country (100" + of rain / yr) a roof leak will kill an RV in about 3-5 yrs) OFTEN undetected, and very frequent)
look / feel / probe for swollen floors / panels.
rust on ANY interior electrical or plumbing fittings / hinges / exposed metal
Buy:
something that is a one-owner
been stored indoors
has tire less than 7 yrs old (max life)
not been in a 'kid / pet family'
Not been used off-road for hunting . fishing
not traveled tons of miles
Preferably a metal framework for interior structure and NO Particle board components (these are RARE FIND, BUT POSSIBLE)
That said... my friend just bought a Pristine 1976 Nomad 18' tow for $650
w/ newer tires, battery, updated floors and fixtures. (rare find, usually about $1800 - $3000 for a decent used one)
LOL. Sorry but that has to be one of the funniest statements I have read in a long time..... Ya you keep believing that and I have a bridge I would like to sell you also.
If your looking to buy anything used hire a very qualified person to do a complete inspection of any unit you have interest in, I have heard way to many horror stories of people buying a used RV "for such a great deal" only to spend well more in repairs then what the actual unit cost
Okay, maybe I'm naive, but perhaps it's due to my experience looking at used RVs and working on homes that I can always recognize the telltale signs of a roof leak. I figured everyone had to know, that if the white ceiling is stained brown around the roof vent, that there has been a leak around that vent. Maybe I just see things too commonsensically.
I guess sometimes it's a labor of love. Why spend more money on a 1973 Dodge RV than you'd spend on a 2003-model RV? Because then you have a nice vintage RV. As an old car guy, I can appreciate that.
We are tinkerers and loved the thought of a vintage "canned ham" travel trailer to restore. Most that we looked at unfortunately were too far gone to even consider, one that the owners were asking $1800 for you could see daylight beneath a side wall. Uh-oh!
The rest, most of the charm had been stripped out of them in 2x4 and plywood "renovations" over the years. I echo the comment on weight for older travel trailers. If you have a bigger tow rig, no big deal, a mid-sized SUV, weight might be a problem.
As noted, a number of RV parks do have age restrictions but I've seen them waived for impeccable restorations, especially travel trailers. Same is true for size. We've run into parks that have lower cut off limits of 24'. I don't get it but I guess it's there to keep us riffraff out.
There are good older units out there. Tons of good advice on finding them. Take your time, and unless vintage is the way you want to go, RV's (many near new) are selling pretty cheap in many parts of the country.
We bought a 1999 motor home from a good consignment shop but had it checked over by several professionals in addition to us going over every inch a thousand times. You just have to know what your getting into when you by older. We love ours!!
Okay, maybe I'm naive, but perhaps it's due to my experience looking at used RVs and working on homes that I can always recognize the telltale signs of a roof leak. I figured everyone had to know, that if the white ceiling is stained brown around the roof vent, that there has been a leak around that vent. Maybe I just see things too commonsensically.
I guess sometimes it's a labor of love. Why spend more money on a 1973 Dodge RV than you'd spend on a 2003-model RV? Because then you have a nice vintage RV. As an old car guy, I can appreciate that.
The point being made in previous posts is that, while some roof leaks do present as a brown stain around a vent, many other leaks are less obvious.
I've seen water intrusion cause rotted floors under appliances, walls rotted out behind stoves/cupboards, etc. ---- all without any sign of water damage to the ceiling or wall paneling.
I've seen floors rotting from underneath due to water intrusion running down inside walls and collecting in the belly membrane --- again, with no obvious sign of ceiling or wall damage.
Bedding compound routinely fails behind older windows which allows water intrusion to adjacent floor areas.
Often a moisture meter is the best tool for detecting leak damage, but it won't necessarily pinpoint where the water is actually entering.
StealthRabbit makes some good points regarding previous usage of units, but it's often difficult to be certain of a unit's actual history. Sellers have been known to tell a fib or two if the sale depends on it.
We looked at a class C once and hubby almost fell thru the floor! They actually just put a new rug over the spot and called it good.
It's scary what some people will try to sell .
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
They actually just put a new rug over the spot and called it good. 
