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I created a thread a not too long ago asking advise on moving to Chicago. I am born and raised New Yorker (Washington Heights) who lived in SoHo for the last few years. I went to U of M in Ann Arbor so had some midwest experience. My job moved me to Chicago a few weeks ago, and I am currently living in the Gold Coast (Goethe and LSD). I have had two weeks to explore Chicago, as I took 3 weeks off before starting my job, so I got a chance to really explore the city, so I thought I would share my experience in Chicago....
First, I must say that Chicago is a great city; compared to the East Coast it is very "polished". People seem to go out of their way to show off the greater downtown area, and very proud of the skyscrapers, etc. In NYC the mentality towards tourists seems to be get the heck out of here, we dont want you, where as in Chicago, they seem to be more welcoming and want to show you around.
The area around Michigan Ave/Mag Mile (for some reason I thought it was called miracle mile at first ) was nice as was Millenium park, Im not sure how often residents use the park, but nice none the less. The Loop to me seemed like typical business 9-5 district so I didn't spend much time there. I have spent a lot of time in "river north" as that area is close to my apartment, and must say I didn't find the area to have much soul, but I guess that is a touristy area? I have a few friends living in Lincoln Park, Lakeview, Wicker Park so I spent a lot of time in those areas, and all seemed to be great bar/drinking spots. Lakeview, especially around Wrigley reminded me a lot of Hobokon, NJ and Lincoln Park had a Brooklyn Heights type feel (smaller scale of course). Wicker Park is my favorite neighborhood I visited as it is hip, and vibrant but still has soul and grittyness unlike LP, LV, River North.
I went down to Chinatown as I am a huge Chineese fan (my Fiance is a chef and specializes in Asian Cuisine), while I was disappointed with the neighborhood itself, the food was really great!
In general, I must say the food in Chicago is very good, and is probably one of the top 2 or 3 in the country. I went to Hot Doug's in Roscoe (?) and must say, that was the best hot dog I have had in my life (big deal coming from a new yorker!)
Anyway, sorry this is typed so poorly (I am typing on an iPad), but if I had to sum up my first impressions of Chicago, it would go like this: Chicago is imo, the true second city in the US, San Fran, Philly, Bos may have similar ammenities, but they cannot match the scale of Chicago. Chicago is very clean for a big city, but I believe that is probably because it doesn't feel as cramped as Boston, Philly, NYC, there seems to be a little more breathing room, which is great! The park system is great, but I think there needs to be a few more away from the lake in the core area (or maybe squares like in NYC). The food is top notch, however, the availability of it seems to be lacking (very few Pizza, Hot Dog, places to grab a quick bit), and no street vendors?! (I saw there was another thread on that). The popular neighborhoods in Chicago seem to be very "white", I didn't see much diveristy in LP, LV, WP, Gold Coast, similar 'hoods in NYC would be a lot more diverse, but they are still great. Also, too many Chains in Chicago, they need more local business.
Bottom line, I think CHicago is the "anti New York": big city amenitites, with a more "American flavor" if that makes any sense at all.
I created a thread a not too long ago asking advise on moving to Chicago. I am born and raised New Yorker (Washington Heights) who lived in SoHo for the last few years. I went to U of M in Ann Arbor so had some midwest experience. My job moved me to Chicago a few weeks ago, and I am currently living in the Gold Coast (Goethe and LSD). I have had two weeks to explore Chicago, as I took 3 weeks off before starting my job, so I got a chance to really explore the city, so I thought I would share my experience in Chicago....
First, I must say that Chicago is a great city; compared to the East Coast it is very "polished". People seem to go out of their way to show off the greater downtown area, and very proud of the skyscrapers, etc. In NYC the mentality towards tourists seems to be get the heck out of here, we dont want you, where as in Chicago, they seem to be more welcoming and want to show you around. The area around Michigan Ave/Mag Mile (for some reason I thought it was called miracle mile at first ) was nice as was Millenium park, Im not sure how often residents use the park, but nice none the less. The Loop to me seemed like typical business 9-5 district so I didn't spend much time there. I have spent a lot of time in "river north" as that area is close to my apartment, and must say I didn't find the area to have much soul, but I guess that is a touristy area? I have a few friends living in Lincoln Park, Lakeview, Wicker Park so I spent a lot of time in those areas, and all seemed to be great bar/drinking spots. Lakeview, especially around Wrigley reminded me a lot of Hobokon, NJ and Lincoln Park had a Brooklyn Heights type feel (smaller scale of course). Wicker Park is my favorite neighborhood I visited as it is hip, and vibrant but still has soul and grittyness unlike LP, LV, River North.
I went down to Chinatown as I am a huge Chineese fan (my Fiance is a chef and specializes in Asian Cuisine), while I was disappointed with the neighborhood itself, the food was really great! In general, I must say the food in Chicago is very good, and is probably one of the top 2 or 3 in the country. I went to Hot Doug's in Roscoe (?) and must say, that was the best hot dog I have had in my life (big deal coming from a new yorker!)
Anyway, sorry this is typed so poorly (I am typing on an iPad), but if I had to sum up my first impressions of Chicago, it would go like this: Chicago is imo, the true second city in the US, San Fran, Philly, Bos may have similar ammenities, but they cannot match the scale of Chicago. Chicago is very clean for a big city, but I believe that is probably because it doesn't feel as cramped as Boston, Philly, NYC, there seems to be a little more breathing room, which is great! The park system is great, but I think there needs to be a few more away from the lake in the core area (or maybe squares like in NYC). The food is top notch, however, the availability of it seems to be lacking (very few Pizza, Hot Dog, places to grab a quick bit), and no street vendors?! (I saw there was another thread on that). The popular neighborhoods in Chicago seem to be very "white", I didn't see much diveristy in LP, LV, WP, Gold Coast, similar 'hoods in NYC would be a lot more diverse, but they are still great. Also, too many Chains in Chicago, they need more local business.
Bottom line, I think CHicago is the "anti New York": big city amenitites, with a more "American flavor" if that makes any sense at all.
You have a great city, you should be proud!
I'd have to say after 10 years in the city I would certainly agree with your comments - especially after only being here a few weeks.
I actually like the Loop a lot (during business hours). It normally gets missed because people tend to visit at night or on the weekends, but even after working downtown for 10 years now I still get a rush out of walking through the Loop during lunchtime on a weekday. It's great people watching, and there's usually something going on in Daley Plaza and along State Street.
River North is pretty sterile as far as being a true-blue neighborhood. It was mostly bombed out during the urban renewal periods, so it's a strange hodge podge of new construction and is in the process of finding a true imagine. I have to say though, River North has come a LONG way in the past 10 years as far as getting rid of parking lots and getting more people in during the day.
Glad to hear you like it! It is a great city. I agree with Wicker Park being one of the best neighborhoods of the city as well as River North being sterile. I could never live in River North.
Would like to to give you some more pointers on some cool neighborhoods you should check out:
1. Ukranian Village - This is the neighborhood just south of Wicker Park, check it out, it has a lot of cool areas and is similar to Wicker Park.
2. Bucktown (My personal favorite) - Neighborhoods just north of Wicker Park. Best way to get a feel for it walk from Damen and North Ave and head north on Damen. Lots of cool spots. Armitage also slices through Bucktown which is pretty neat street too.
3. Lincoln Square - Little "German" neighborhood. Take the brown line there get off at western, and explore Lincoln Ave up and down. Cool neighborhood.
4. Logan Square - If you want to see a real gritty, recently gentrified neighborhood, Logan Square is pretty interesting too. Lots of nice boulevards as well.
5. South Loop - A bit sterile too. Like River North, except that it is south of downtown and more affordable. Still nice place to check out.
6. Pilsen - Some great architecture, has a very old feel too it. Great Mexican food and mix of Mexican culture and hipster culture.
Honorable mentions: Avondale, Hyde Park, Andersonville, Roscoe Village. Also check out the suburbs of Evanston and Oak Park.
I'd have to say after 10 years in the city I would certainly agree with your comments - especially after only being here a few weeks.
I actually like the Loop a lot (during business hours). It normally gets missed because people tend to visit at night or on the weekends, but even after working downtown for 10 years now I still get a rush out of walking through the Loop during lunchtime on a weekday. It's great people watching, and there's usually something going on in Daley Plaza and along State Street.
River North is pretty sterile as far as being a true-blue neighborhood. It was mostly bombed out during the urban renewal periods, so it's a strange hodge podge of new construction and is in the process of finding a true imagine. I have to say though, River North has come a LONG way in the past 10 years as far as getting rid of parking lots and getting more people in during the day.
In terms of River North, I can see what your saying. Those new highrises are nice and shiney, but are very sterile. Most seem to have huge parking podiums taking up the first 10 floors, it really takes away from the street level. I guess that never happened in NYC becuase everything is so old, and there are no empty lots. Your right though, it is better than a parking lot.
Chicago is very clean for a big city, but I believe that is probably because it doesn't feel as cramped as Boston, Philly, NYC, there seems to be a little more breathing room, which is great!
NYC and Philly don't have alleys like they have in Chicago.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FAReastcoast
The popular neighborhoods in Chicago seem to be very "white", I didn't see much diveristy in LP, LV, WP, Gold Coast, similar 'hoods in NYC would be a lot more diverse, but they are still great.
Chicago has a lot of residential segregation but you have to expand your mind as to what neighborhoods are popular. Check out Edgewater, Rogers Park and other areas.
Glad to hear you like it! It is a great city. I agree with Wicker Park being one of the best neighborhoods of the city as well as River North being sterile. I could never live in River North.
Would like to to give you some more pointers on some cool neighborhoods you should check out:
1. Ukranian Village - This is the neighborhood just south of Wicker Park, check it out, it has a lot of cool areas and is similar to Wicker Park.
Yup, I checked out the neighborhood, I was mistakenly calling this "wicker park"
2. Bucktown (My personal favorite) - Neighborhoods just north of Wicker Park. Best way to get a feel for it walk from Damen and North Ave and head north on Damen. Lots of cool spots. Armitage also slices through Bucktown which is pretty neat street too.
See Ukranian Village
3. Lincoln Square - Little "German" neighborhood. Take the brown line there get off at western, and explore Lincoln Ave up and down. Cool neighborhood.
Thanks for the suggestion
4. Logan Square - If you want to see a real gritty, recently gentrified neighborhood, Logan Square is pretty interesting too. Lots of nice boulevards as well.
Thanks
5. South Loop - A bit sterile too. Like River North, except that it is south of downtown and more affordable. Still nice place to check out.
I saw the south loop, not really my cup of tea
6. Pilsen - Some great architecture, has a very old feel too it. Great Mexican food and mix of Mexican culture and hipster culture.
I meant to go down there, just have not made it yet. Is it similar to Spanish Harlem?
Honorable mentions: Avondale, Hyde Park, Andersonville, Roscoe Village. Also check out the suburbs of Evanston and Oak Park.
NYC and Philly don't have alleys like they have in Chicago.
Chicago has a lot of residential segregation but you have to expand your mind as to what neighborhoods are popular. Check out Edgewater, Rogers Park and other areas.
Is Rogers Park where Loyola is located? I went up there, when I say "popular" I also mean "upscale" (which Rogers Park is not). Upscale areas in Chicago, while great, seem very white. UES, SoHo, Village in NYC while very white, seem to have more ethnicity, many of them are small business owners in those neighborhoods, so while they do not "Live" in those area, they are very much a part of it. I didn't see this in Chicago.
NYC and Philly don't have alleys like they have in Chicago.
Chicago has a lot of residential segregation but you have to expand your mind as to what neighborhoods are popular. Check out Edgewater, Rogers Park and other areas.
I am assuming this is because NYC and Philly are much older cities? Chicago really planned well with Alley's.
Not sure if I would say Pilsen is similar to Spanish Harlem because I have never been to Spanish Harlem. So it might be or it might not be.
Pilsen is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city and you can tell by looking at some of the buildings on 18th street, which is like Pilsen's main street. Pilsen is very very Mexican and has a very Mexican immigrant feeling. Kind of like an old world feel to it as well, dunno how to explain it.
With that being said there is an influx of a lot of hipsters and a lot of college students from UIC which borders Pilsen just to the north. So it's got an interesting dynamic going on. I hope it doesn't ever get too gentrified, as I think as it is now, it has a whole lot of character.
I use Millenium Park quite a bit. I attend many free concerts in the Pavilion and even just sit in the park on lunch break sometimes. I work right across the street and live just south of the Wicker Park border at Division/Ashland, so it's very easy for me to get there.
I agree about River North, it's very touristy and not a lot for me in the area. I like the Portillos and Mr Beef, and even Green Door Tavern is good.
Wicker Park is fine, it used to be more artsy and such, it's getting more like Lincoln Park now, but retains some great music venues.... Empty Bottle, Double Door, Subterranean are close, Hideout is close, too.
Beside Hot Doug's, take a trip to Lincoln Park to Franks'N'Dawgs, another specialty "encased meat" place, where they make their own sauces and sausages. It's great!
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) was nice as was Millenium park, Im not sure how often residents use the park, but nice none the less. The Loop to me seemed like typical business 9-5 district so I didn't spend much time there. I have spent a lot of time in "river north" as that area is close to my apartment, and must say I didn't find the area to have much soul, but I guess that is a touristy area? I have a few friends living in Lincoln Park, Lakeview, Wicker Park so I spent a lot of time in those areas, and all seemed to be great bar/drinking spots. Lakeview, especially around Wrigley reminded me a lot of Hobokon, NJ and Lincoln Park had a Brooklyn Heights type feel (smaller scale of course). Wicker Park is my favorite neighborhood I visited as it is hip, and vibrant but still has soul and grittyness unlike LP, LV, River North. 
