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While I agree about the use of Sta-Bil most do not have to use it. The biggest problem consumers have is storing their seasonal equipment with very little gas in the tank. If you fill your tanks to the top when storing, you cut down on the area that can evaporate and you also increase the amount that will dilute the, otherwise concentrated, gas from evaporation. You leave just a little gas in your tanks and store your seasonal equipment and you are asking for trouble. Just a little gas will evaporate fast and turn to gum, the tank has more air space for moisture to get in, and you can have problems the following season. Top your tanks off and you will not need the additive.
I've never been concerned with storing a small engine with a full tank. In fact, I can fill the tank and with in a month it's almost empty, ether through evaporation or minor leak. I have a pressure washer that I had not started in maybe 3 years and then this spring I got it out and it only took two pulls and it was running.
I use this same method (the method in my previous post) in all my small engines. A 25 horse ZTR, 1500 watt generator, 8000 watt generator, 6 horse pressure washer, 5 horse tiller, push mower, and I'm probably forgetting one or two. I never filled their tanks and yet never had a problem starting them, even if it's been years.
You cant let todays gas set long periods, it deteriorates faster thanks to the alcohol. And todays small engines are made to run super lean. Meaning it takes far less varnish build up from deteriorating gas to plug them.
I have used alcoholic gas in my mowers for some time now, mostly cause its royal PITA to track down the non-alcohol gas. Drain it in autumn. Occasionally still have to clean the carb, just the way it is. I have gotten pretty good cleaning the Honda design carbs (Hondas and clones). And I adapted an antique adjustable Tecumseh carb on my Briggs, that all plastic carb Briggs use on their "E" engines (OHV) from factory is truly a nightmare. The old Tecumseh carb reminded me how much I liked the old style carbs with adjustable jet.
Oh another thing, even during summer use, want to use the fuel shut off valve if your mower has one. This keeps gas that evaporates from carburetor bowl allowing fresh gas down into bowl to continue evaporation. Just have to remember to open the valve before trying to start your engine next time. I even added shut off valve to one small engine. That Briggs 500E doesnt have convenient place to mount one between gas tank and carburetor. Small engines should just come with one. But obviously longevity of "E" engine wasnt a high priority for Briggs in designing it. I will look again when I drain gas soon after final mow of the season. I am however guessing it would require mounting fuel tank further from carb to give some room.
I ALWAYS use Sta bil in every gas powered thing I have, and it has only failed me once...
The ONE time Sta bil apparently didnt work, was in a 48" Exmark walk behind, 18hp Kawasaki engine, I went to start it in March and couldnt get it to turn over, I found the needle gummed up in the carb...I still cannot explain that one! (Im not sure why the Sta Bil failed in that engine), it was the only time I have had carb problems in the spring.
It is possible TOO MUCH Sta bil was used, many people dont realize this can cause problems too.
My mower is used year round as our weather has warmed up so much in FL we no longer have winters.
Say it outright, if you can get any engine to last 20 years with regular use, you are far ahead of game. Dont happen to know what brand/model of engine that was? Craftsman brand mowers used variety of engines over the years. . . .
Apologies for the delayed answer. I didn't see this.
I'm not sure about the older model - I think it might be a Tecumseh. And that one may be more than 20 years old - probably new in the mid-90's. It doesn't say engine brand on the labels, and B&S usually do. The newer model is a B&S. And, yup - I agree that I'm ahead of the game. Both were purchased used. The older one belonged to the seller's dad - who had passed - and never used it much. It was definitely low hours when I got it. It's not low hours now, and the way my son used to beat it up, it's a minor miracle the shaft isn't bent. He did put a rock through the deck once. Fortunately it's a steel deck, and I patched with some sheet steel.
The newer model was probably used a couple of seasons and discarded for some minor problem. I bought it from a guy who picks them up, wrenches the easy ones, and resells.
People still have to check their oil in their cars though.
Do they? I thought they had an idiot light for that anymore??? Or maybe computer tells you?? Please visit the dealer, you are half a quart low on oil..... LOL
I've never been concerned with storing a small engine with a full tank. In fact, I can fill the tank and with in a month it's almost empty, ether through evaporation or minor leak. I have a pressure washer that I had not started in maybe 3 years and then this spring I got it out and it only took two pulls and it was running.
I use this same method (the method in my previous post) in all my small engines. A 25 horse ZTR, 1500 watt generator, 8000 watt generator, 6 horse pressure washer, 5 horse tiller, push mower, and I'm probably forgetting one or two. I never filled their tanks and yet never had a problem starting them, even if it's been years.
BTW I use fuel without ethanol.
Pressure washers and generators can sit for very long times without being used. They are not in the same category of seasonal equipment. I had a lawnmower shop 50 years ago and I also sold Sta-Bil. I also have never had a full tank of fuel that drained out in one month, maybe I never had a leak that bad? Also, while I have had some equipment with ethanol problems, I have never worried about where I buy my fuel. Of course, since I was an authorized service mechanic, I never worried about potential problems. I always figured I could resolve any issues that came along.
For the last 40 years I have been taking care of my five acres. Almost all of my problems are related to rocks and roots on my property. A new batch of them 'grow' every year.
Today's manufacturers do not want consumers adjusting their equipment, you need special screwdrivers to turn those carburetor adjustment screws. I think that is a big player when it comes to lawnmower longevity. When people have to pull a starter rope too many times then they start thinking about replacement, instead of the problem. Small motors produce a lot of vibration and eventually need adjustment.
Pressure washers and generators can sit for very long times without being used. They are not in the same category of seasonal equipment. I had a lawnmower shop 50 years ago and I also sold Sta-Bil. I also have never had a full tank of fuel that drained out in one month, maybe I never had a leak that bad? Also, while I have had some equipment with ethanol problems, I have never worried about where I buy my fuel. Of course, since I was an authorized service mechanic, I never worried about potential problems. I always figured I could resolve any issues that came along.
For the last 40 years I have been taking care of my five acres. Almost all of my problems are related to rocks and roots on my property. A new batch of them 'grow' every year.
Today's manufacturers do not want consumers adjusting their equipment, you need special screwdrivers to turn those carburetor adjustment screws. I think that is a big player when it comes to lawnmower longevity. When people have to pull a starter rope too many times then they start thinking about replacement, instead of the problem. Small motors produce a lot of vibration and eventually need adjustment.
Rent a Bobcat with a 'rockhound' attachment on front...I used one of these at a commercial property once, and it really did a nice job of picking it all up.
Rent a Bobcat with a 'rockhound' attachment on front...I used one of these at a commercial property once, and it really did a nice job of picking it all up.
I have stonewalls surrounding my property from farmers trying to get rid of all the rocks. One is five foot high and about 200 feet long. There is no end to the rocks. The topsoil is also thin and roots can and do grow above ground. I am familiar with what a Bobcat can do with the 'rockhound'. In the long run my money would still be on the rocks and roots.
Speaking of rocks and roots, they can quickly take years off the life of one's mowers. To make matters worse, the manufacturers do not give the homeowners a lot of height adjustment. Many of the mowers only give a maximum of 3.5 to 5.5 inches. Most of my rock and roots are a good one inch higher that what my mowers can safely cut! Also I think some of those heights are exaggerated and one does not really have that clearance. The factories probably measure that clearance on a flat, level, surface; but many of our lawns are irregular.
I have stonewalls surrounding my property from farmers trying to get rid of all the rocks. One is five foot high and about 200 feet long. There is no end to the rocks. The topsoil is also thin and roots can and do grow above ground. I am familiar with what a Bobcat can do with the 'rockhound'. In the long run my money would still be on the rocks and roots.
Speaking of rocks and roots, they can quickly take years off the life of one's mowers. To make matters worse, the manufacturers do not give the homeowners a lot of height adjustment. Many of the mowers only give a maximum of 3.5 to 5.5 inches. Most of my rock and roots are a good one inch higher that what my mowers can safely cut! Also I think some of those heights are exaggerated and one does not really have that clearance. The factories probably measure that clearance on a flat, level, surface; but many of our lawns are irregular.
Oh yes, I remember those tree roots that grow on the surface!They were a pain to deal with when I mowed lawns, hit them at just the wrong angle and the blades would make contact.
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