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I've done it many times. I just add a little bone meal & veg fertilizer to each plant.
That and adding straw or grass clipping mulch to keep soil born diseases from bouncing up onto the leaves.
For several years, the only spot with enough sun was along a parking spot. I grew tomatoes in 30 gallon grow bags with fresh dirt and SuperSod compost every spring. The mulch helped some, but eventually nearly all of my tomatoes would succumb to wilt.
Except for Torch tomatoes. They are just delicious. Little smaller than Romas. First one we pick in the spring, and the last ones to still be producing in the fall.
If you check out Gemstone's good reference posted earlier, you'll see that almost all of those conditions involve microbes that thrive in conditions of high humidity, high moisture and poor air circulation....Those spores may harbor themselves in the soil, but rotating your tomatoes to another plot nearby won't help-- the spores are everywhere and become airborne. The plants don't get "infected" from the soil....
Up here where we have real winters and summers aren't too long or too hot, a little fungal or bacterial damage will still give you a good enough harvest if you're an amateur, and rarely requires any real treatment other than preventative--> plant in full sun conditions with good drainage and enough room betweeen plants to allow for good air circulation. Don't water at nite (daytime watering allows excess moisture to evaporate) and only water the ground around the plant, not on the vegetation itself (keep the leaves dry).
I've grown tomatoes for decades in the same plot without disease problems. Fertlize as needed to replace nutrients carried off with the harvest.
I have a small garden and grow tomatoes in same general area, my biggest issue is blight. I live in NJ and it gets hot and sticky during the summer. I have some prevention techniques like spacing out, keeping them off the ground, water at the base and keep some kind of ground cover under the plant, and remove lower infected leaves.
Also apply a fungicide with a pump sprayer late evening or early morning, and fertilize. Also some plants are much more resistant than others. I go with disease resistant hybrid's, tried heirloom and they do not do well in my enviroment. Eventually the plant gets it no matter but try to delay it as long as possible.
Being in the far north (most of Canada is south of us), I can only get good tomatoes by growing them in a greenhouse. Which means they get planted in the same location every year. Each spring I add some good quality compost, a little commercial fertilizer, and a little bit of gypsum. They usually do well unless we have an unusually cool and wet summer. Tomatoes do not like cold damp weather but I can't control that.
For a long time the problem with replanting in tomato soil has been nematodes. Keep that in mind as you choose which varieties to plant. Early Girl cultivar is fairly resistant to root knot nematodes.
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