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Old 02-04-2014, 03:13 PM
 
Location: MS
4,395 posts, read 4,911,959 times
Reputation: 1564

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GnomadAK View Post
Has anyone tried building one the 80% lowers?
I have a dozen coming in from a Rocket Hub project by Sierra Nevada Arms. I've seen the videos and it doesn't look difficult. I also plan to pick up non-anodized stripped uppers from Aero Precision so I can dye match them during the anodizing process. I've also thought about going with DIY nickel boron coatings but that would run about $100 per gun to do it.
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:22 PM
 
Location: MS
4,395 posts, read 4,911,959 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucksnee View Post
There are many 2 stage triggers out there.....

LOL...thanks, I;m just cheap but willing to help others if I can....

I'll look into Griz and LMT stuff...heck I may have looked at it, just did not know it?

Never made a pistol, but soon maybe? Not sure if a gas gun is worth it?
Same process except for the buffer tube. There is no castle nut on it. You just screw it in until it is tight. If you use a standard latch plate PSA AR15 CAR Stock Latch Plate - Individual Lower Parts - Lower Parts - AR-15 then you will need to grind that tab off. It takes about a minute with a Dremel.

I chose a 7.5" barrel and paired it with a carbine length rail from UTG (the made in the USA model) but I am probably cutting that down about an inch. The compensator I use doesn't completely clear the end of the rail so I am getting some blow back of the flash. It's not fun having flames coming through the rails.

I also use a UTG grip on all of my ARs. They are a little larger and they have a bump on the right side that keeps my finger from going too far on the trigger. You can see that in the picture UTG Tactical Ergonomic Pistol Grip AR Fit 1 Bolt Mount Rubberized Desert Tan | eBay

On one rifle, I've sent it to Bill Springfield - www.TriggerWork.net Bill did a great job in setting the pull at 2.5 lbs and making it extremely smooth. I like it better than the 2 stage on my wife's Rock River.
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:23 AM
 
46,289 posts, read 27,099,738 times
Reputation: 11127
Looking forward and a little off topic, but still dealing with a lower build....

I have done some research, and looking for some back up from others just to be sure, but If I build a complete upper in .300 blackout and 6.8SPC (2 seperate complete uppers) I can use the current AR lower with these uppers, correct?

Basically, I will have 1 complete upper in .300 BO, and 1 in 6.8SPC.

Go to the range, push 2 pins out, put another upper on and start shooting.



3 complete seperate uppers, 1 complete lower, total of 3 guns....

Just looking for advise...good idea or bad...
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:52 PM
 
Location: San Diego
50,291 posts, read 47,043,365 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucksnee View Post
Looking forward and a little off topic, but still dealing with a lower build....

I have done some research, and looking for some back up from others just to be sure, but If I build a complete upper in .300 blackout and 6.8SPC (2 seperate complete uppers) I can use the current AR lower with these uppers, correct?

Basically, I will have 1 complete upper in .300 BO, and 1 in 6.8SPC.

Go to the range, push 2 pins out, put another upper on and start shooting.



3 complete seperate uppers, 1 complete lower, total of 3 guns....

Just looking for advise...good idea or bad...
Absolutely! I like to mix and match em. I can hunt Deer with my 6.5 and swap uppers for Coyotes. The next day I can put a borrowed .300 blackout upper for hogs! That's the beauty of them.
The morons in CA didn't think that one through. I register the lower and I can put whatever the beep I want on top of it when I go shoot it. Even a BMG single shot upper
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:10 AM
 
Location: MS
4,395 posts, read 4,911,959 times
Reputation: 1564
From everything I have read, the only upper that requires a non-standard lower is a 9mm. You even if you use a removable mag adapter, the hammer needs to be 9mm specific. Other than that, a lower works with any upper from .22LR to .458 SOCOM.

I would also do some reading on the benefits/drawbacks of the .300 BO and 6.8 SPC. I'm starting to believe the 6.8 may have been a fad. The .300 is taking over. In fact, you can use the same bolt carrier group on the .300 BO as you do with a .223/5.56.
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:29 AM
 
46,289 posts, read 27,099,738 times
Reputation: 11127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_J View Post
From everything I have read, the only upper that requires a non-standard lower is a 9mm. You even if you use a removable mag adapter, the hammer needs to be 9mm specific. Other than that, a lower works with any upper from .22LR to .458 SOCOM.

I would also do some reading on the benefits/drawbacks of the .300 BO and 6.8 SPC. I'm starting to believe the 6.8 may have been a fad. The .300 is taking over. In fact, you can use the same bolt carrier group on the .300 BO as you do with a .223/5.56.
Yea, not going 9mm....

I also looked at the .458 SOCOM, and it appears that you have to widen the ejeciton port to use it, unless you buy a .458 SOCOM upper, of course that is just what I read onthe internet...not sure if it is true, but a few places said the same thing?

I'm just going to build to have them...that's all. Increase the value and yet spend less money than buying 3 entire AR's.

I thank all for the input!
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:10 AM
 
46,289 posts, read 27,099,738 times
Reputation: 11127
Update on price (all prices include shipping):

Anderson Lower, $61
Anderson Blem upper, $51
PSA LBK including the buffer and adjustable stock, $86
Flash hider (3 inch spiral), lowprofile gas block, and carbine length gas tube, $57
Charging handle, forward assist, and dust cover, $40

$295 out-a-pocket...sister in law bought barrel....$160 (H-bar 1x9 twist 16 inch)

All together, $455....

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Old 02-06-2014, 11:41 AM
 
Location: MS
4,395 posts, read 4,911,959 times
Reputation: 1564
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucksnee View Post
Yea, not going 9mm....

I also looked at the .458 SOCOM, and it appears that you have to widen the ejeciton port to use it, unless you buy a .458 SOCOM upper, of course that is just what I read onthe internet...not sure if it is true, but a few places said the same thing?

I'm just going to build to have them...that's all. Increase the value and yet spend less money than buying 3 entire AR's.

I thank all for the input!
From everything I've read, the mod is easy with a Dremel. After you make the first mod, it really becomes easy. I can't wait to get started on my 80% lowers.
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:51 PM
 
Location: Approximately 50 miles from Missoula MT/38 yrs full time after 4 yrs part time
2,308 posts, read 4,122,972 times
Reputation: 5025
Quote:
Originally Posted by TaxPhd View Post
Are you sure about a carbide die in 5.56 from Lee? There website doesn't say anything about carbide in that rifle die.
............You're correct............... The 4th Die is the Factory Crimp Die----not a Carbide F/L sizer Die.
Age is catching up to me--
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Old 02-09-2014, 01:38 PM
 
46,289 posts, read 27,099,738 times
Reputation: 11127
Dust cover installed, BTW, if you ever build, put the dust cover on prior to the barrel install.....just easier!
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