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Find another place to have the attic stairs pull down or put a captain's ladder up thru a hole in a closet. Likely places to put the whole stairs, tho, are hallway, adjacent bedroom. Patching the hole where the old stair was won't be too big of a chore, you know how to do it, frame from attic a piece of drywall into the hole, tape and mud from room, repaint ceiling. You'll need a pal to move those stairs over to the new spot, of course. Then cut a hole like the other one, perhaps use the same framing if there was any there, AND use the same opening cover, which should be attached to the stairs anyway.
Hi. Does anyone have any suggestions? Its in my daughters bedroom ceiling of a house we will hopefully be purchasing. I didnt want to have to re sheetrock the ceiling and pay to have the stairs moved-any suggestions please? It really is an eyesore-thanks
What's more of an eye-sore- an attic access in a secondary bedroom or in a common area; i.e., the hallway? Find more info below-
Quote:
Originally Posted by gigimac
Find another place to have the attic stairs pull down or put a captain's ladder up thru a hole in a closet. Likely places to put the whole stairs, tho, are hallway, adjacent bedroom. Patching the hole where the old stair was won't be too big of a chore, you know how to do it, frame from attic a piece of drywall into the hole, tape and mud from room, repaint ceiling. You'll need a pal to move those stairs over to the new spot, of course. Then cut a hole like the other one, perhaps use the same framing if there was any there, AND use the same opening cover, which should be attached to the stairs anyway.
Right! If it were really that easy.
Generally, attic access/pull-down stairs are located in hallways because the headroom in the attic meets the minimum code requirement (generally the ridge is running parallel to the hall), and framing the opening doesn't require a lot of additional structural lumber because of the short span between hall walls. Attic accesses that are put in secondary bedrooms are either because of a headroom restriction in the hall area (when contrary to the more common scenario I mentioned previously or house has trusses) or, the hallway area is open to other common areas of the house and would be in eyesight- a distraction from the overall appearance of said home.
RAIN has a great idea going there! Maybe just fill crack around unframed door part, tape and mud, then paint ceiling blue with those glow stars, maybe a GIANT moon all over the door (altho I'm partial to Saturn). That means probably leaving stairs there and using Captain's ladder thru a closet ceiling hole, covered of course. The bigger the hole, the bigger the stuff can go in there, but won't be easy hauling via wall ladder esp in a closet... KNWLDG, can you expand these ideas some more? I feel like I know you.
I would leave it where it is, it was probably put there for a reason.
I also agree, where is it more an eyesore, a secondary bedroom or the hallway. I rather it in the bedroom than the hallway.
Now if you were thinking about not using the attic ever, I would close it up and have a small space inside of a closet to get into the attic, because there will be times when you need to get access into it.
...it was probably put there for a reason.
This is called reasonable deduction.
...I would close it up and have a small space inside of a closet to get into the attic...
This would be called a code violation, more specifically (for everyone):
From the IRC (International Residential Code)
R807.1 Attic access. Buildings with combustible ceiling or roof construction shall have an attic access opening to attic areas that exceed 30 square feet (2.8 m2) and have a vertical height of 30 inches (762 mm) or greater. The vertical height shall be measured from the top of the ceiling framing members to the underside of the roof framing members. The rough-framed opening shall not be less than 22 inches by 30 inches (559 mm by 762 mm) and shall be located in a hallway or other readily accessible location. When located in a wall, the opening shall be a minimum of 22 inches wide by 30 inches high (559 mm wide by 762 mm high). When the access is located in a ceiling, minimum unobstructed headroom in the attic space shall be 30 inches (762 mm) at some point above the access measured vertically from the bottom of ceiling framing members. M1305.1.3 Appliances in attics. Attics containing appliances shall be provided with an opening and a clear and unobstructed passageway large enough to allow removal of the largest appliance, but not less than 30 inches (762 mm) high and 22 inches (559 mm) wide and not more than 20 feet (6096 mm) long measured along the centerline of the passageway from the opening to the appliance. The passageway shall have continuous solid flooring in accordance with Chapter 5 not less than 24 inches (610 mm) wide. A level service space at least 30 inches (762 mm) deep and 30 inches (762 mm) wide shall be present along all sides of the appliance where access is required. The clear access opening dimensions shall be a minimum of 20 inches by 30 inches (508 mm by 762 mm), and large enough to allow removal of the largest appliance.
This would be called a code violation, more specifically (for everyone):
From the IRC (International Residential Code)
R807.1 Attic access. Buildings with combustible ceiling or roof construction shall have an attic access opening to attic areas that exceed 30 square feet (2.8 m2) and have a vertical height of 30 inches (762 mm) or greater. The vertical height shall be measured from the top of the ceiling framing members to the underside of the roof framing members. The rough-framed opening shall not be less than 22 inches by 30 inches (559 mm by 762 mm) and shall be located in a hallway or other readily accessible location. When located in a wall, the opening shall be a minimum of 22 inches wide by 30 inches high (559 mm wide by 762 mm high). When the access is located in a ceiling, minimum unobstructed headroom in the attic space shall be 30 inches (762 mm) at some point above the access measured vertically from the bottom of ceiling framing members. M1305.1.3 Appliances in attics. Attics containing appliances shall be provided with an opening and a clear and unobstructed passageway large enough to allow removal of the largest appliance, but not less than 30 inches (762 mm) high and 22 inches (559 mm) wide and not more than 20 feet (6096 mm) long measured along the centerline of the passageway from the opening to the appliance. The passageway shall have continuous solid flooring in accordance with Chapter 5 not less than 24 inches (610 mm) wide. A level service space at least 30 inches (762 mm) deep and 30 inches (762 mm) wide shall be present along all sides of the appliance where access is required. The clear access opening dimensions shall be a minimum of 20 inches by 30 inches (508 mm by 762 mm), and large enough to allow removal of the largest appliance.
Thanks for posting this KB. Its nice to know that there are at least a few knowledgeable professionals who frequent this site. I hope you stick around for a long time to come.
Yeah, watch your codes...we got grandfathered in on a captain's hole for our attic since we live in a historic house, but to change anything turned into a nightmare. However, we have huge hinged vents on either end of the house - getting someone to remove the furnace is interesting, but we were able to get around it all.
What we did over a horrid old stained popcorn ceiling with a set of attic drop stairs was to plank the entire ceiling with the Armstrong faux planks and give it a rough-ish, more primitive look since we have a 130 year old house with some painted plank ceilings already present in other rooms that are original to the house or additions that were put on many moons ago. We have 12' ceilings and the attic access just sort of goes away against it all...the handle has to be grabbed with a ladder but it was painted the same color so it fades away as well. Maybe it's just that we've gotten used to it, but it's not the first thing you notice walking into that room anymore.....and it definitely was a focal point before! We also looked at beadboard but opted for the planking to continue the look through the house. Don't know if this is practical for you, but just an idea :-)
You could attach material canopy style to cover the whole ceiling or just in the area of the door. I have seen it done with just the 4 corners attached so the center kind of balloons den toward the floor or done more like what you see covering outside pergolas. You could attach slats close to the ceiling and lay the fabric over the top-allowing the the material to "droop" between them. If it is a small room, you could do it cheaply sheets.
I really like your suggestion. I have one more suggestion like if you attach material canopy style to cover the whole ceiling then 4 corners attached Ceiling lights. Its played vital role in bathroom decoration. Always use light color on ceiling and wall.Avoid dark and strong colors in bathroom like red, orange and bright yellow.
regarding the "codes' and all, and I am not disputing it...I know we have codes for window egress in the event of a fire...
but if you had attic stairs in a bedroom and wanted to seal it off and just make a manhole opening on the inside of a closet, who on earth will find out that you are breaking a code???
Just who are you letting into your bedrooms to look for violations?
How would anyone possible know?
I would not worry about it.
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I'd paint the door panel itself with a sky blue latex paint. 
