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I don't think the voltage drop and potential compressor issues are the primary reason. As others have already stated, the more immediate danger is overheating of the extension cord and subsequent fire due to inadequate current carrying capacity.
I also don't agree with your grounding advise. If the device has a 3-pin plug with ground, it needs it to meet UL or other regulatory certification that requires a grounded chassis due to either potential leakage currents (from starting capacitors, noise suppression circuity or compressor motor issues) or due to a loose hot wire coming into contact with the chassis. Since you cannot guarantee who may touch the unit, it is incredibly bad advise to even contemplate running the unit off an ungrounded input. As you said safety is #1 and in this case this means the unit must be grounded, no question. Of course if the unit is double insulated then perhaps a case can be made (but that is not something you can easily ascertain), but most units are metal cased or have some touchable metals parts.
In a lot of countries, the manufacturer uses an integrated MCB/GFI in the power input to further protect the user. I'f it were me I'd also put a GFI on all window units (think of moisture or critters causing leak to earth issues).
I know what I'm talking about! Voltage drop and compressor failures are sure as hell manufacturers concern. They don't want to be replacing compressors because customers use a 100' / 16 gauge or even bigger cord. The absolute primary reason for the warning is undoubtedly protection from lawsuits.
As for your expert non agreement with my ground info... So in the case of a slide out chassis unit they must be mechanically bonded to the unit with a tension clip or wire. Yada Yada Yada! I'm relating to real world stuff not pie in the sky crap! People do plug A/C's into non grounded outlets all the time! I pointed out the dangers.
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I'f it were me I'd also put a GFI on all window units (think of moisture or critters causing leak to earth issues).
Really? Ever heard of Locked Rotor amps? You can't use a GFI on an A/C! It would trip every time the compressor started.
Now go back and read and if you find something wrong with What I actually stated come back and tell me.
Neanderthal stuff? Really? The op never said how old the house was, and the fact that there is not an outlet anywhere near the a/c (and the fact that there is no central a/c!) is a huge tip-off that the house is not modern. In my area, there are huge numbers of homes with aluminum wiring - even though it's not legal for new homes, there are many *many* homes that still have it. I've personally seen lots of older homes with knob & tube wiring kludged into what looks like "modern" wiring, with heavily overloaded circuits & while it might work for a while, it can burn your house down.
Paying for an hour of an electrician's time is the sensible thing to do & it's cheap peace of mind.
This is all nothing to do with the subject of my post. I merely stated fact! !2 gauge wire is capable of carrying 20 amp loads. If you don't have # 12 wire in your house then it simply doesn't refer to you.
BTW, I still see no point to your additional non useful info?
All 3 of our AC's run on extensions cords (the fun of living in a 100+ y.o. house with 1 outlet per room). All of them are heavy duty. The wires and breakers were all replaced, but they never though of adding more outlets.
This is all nothing to do with the subject of my post. I merely stated fact! !2 gauge wire is capable of carrying 20 amp loads. If you don't have # 12 wire in your house then it simply doesn't refer to you.
BTW, I still see no point to your additional non useful info?
and I explained to you that you were incorrect in your assertion that aluminum wire and knob & tube wiring have disappeared from the face of the earth.
You are incorrect when you state that "most homes have 20 amp wire and 15 amp breakers".
And you are incorrect when you state there is "no difference" between a standard outlet and a commercial grade outlet.
Following your advice could result in a fire.
Following my advice the op is out a few bucks, that's all.
and I explained to you that you were incorrect in your assertion that aluminum wire and knob & tube wiring have disappeared from the face of the earth.
You are incorrect when you state that "most homes have 20 amp wire and 15 amp breakers".
And you are incorrect when you state there is "no difference" between a standard outlet and a commercial grade outlet.
Following your advice could result in a fire.
Following my advice the op is out a few bucks, that's all.
You telling me most homes do not have 12 gauge wiring? The weight is the same for a 20 amp and 15 amp receptacle. If a difference exists in it's spring tension that's different than it's ability to handle a 20 amp load. If the spring tension difference is true the 20 amp could be safer in the long run. You're making stuff up again. You're wrong in quoting me incorrectly...I never said anything disappeared from the face of the Earth. Following your advice could result in ignorance ...now go hump someone elses leg.
I have a special extension cord for air conditioners. I used to be afraid because when you see a regular extention cord say fopr a lamp, you know logic tells you it cant be used for an a/c. But the home stores have heavy duty cord made for this.
I know what I'm talking about! Voltage drop and compressor failures are sure as hell manufacturers concern. They don't want to be replacing compressors because customers use a 100' / 16 gauge or even bigger cord. The absolute primary reason for the warning is undoubtedly protection from lawsuits.
As for your expert non agreement with my ground info... So in the case of a slide out chassis unit they must be mechanically bonded to the unit with a tension clip or wire. Yada Yada Yada! I'm relating to real world stuff not pie in the sky crap! People do plug A/C's into non grounded outlets all the time! I pointed out the dangers.
Really? Ever heard of Locked Rotor amps? You can't use a GFI on an A/C! It would trip every time the compressor started.
Now go back and read and if you find something wrong with What I actually stated come back and tell me.
Look, the manufacturer doesn't care about the voltage drop, they care about the fire that an underrated extension cord could cause. The voltage drop is a secondary issue. A cynical person might say that premature failure of the compressor would be good as the hapless owner would then have to go buy a new A/C. Ask yourself what the typical variation in a 110V supply in a typical home could be, don't worry about extension cords or anything else, and than see if your answer makes any sense.
The earthing issue I stand by. I'd agree with you if you wrote something like "under no circumstances should a A/C that requires grounding be run in an ungrounded situation" but you didn't. You started a long diatribe about how you should be careful if you do this. That, IMHO, is bad, bad advise. You obviously disagree, but I hope someone coming across this thread doesn't get the idea that it is OK.
Do you know what a GFCI or a plug LCDI does? Apparently not otherwise you wouldn't start on about LRA's. That has no bearing on the discussion. GFI's and inline LCDI's detect ground faults. Inrush current or steady state current have nothing to do with tripping a GFI, apart from gross over current steady-state situations. You should look into the UL ruling on A/C units and LCDI plugs before you start spouting off again.
Last edited by timfountain; 06-27-2012 at 08:47 AM..
I have over thirty years experience in dealing with these issues. What have you got? I assure you once again the manufacturers do not want their units run on extension cords period. They do not want to replace compressors unnecessarily. They do not want your house to burn down and be blamed on them. Whether you ran it on a light duty, too long, frazzled, spliced, tattered, worn, or jury rigged cord or contraption. Voltage drop is an issue what difference is it if it's secondary or primary?? You are cynical btw. Typical variation in A/C 110-125 ....voltage drops on long undersized cords can bring it down top 90 or worse. My answer obviously makes sense . Yours on the other hand is just a goofy argument.
Forgive me if I didn't state :
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The earthing issue I stand by. I'd agree with you if you wrote something like "under no circumstances should a A/C that requires grounding be run in an ungrounded situation" but you didn't
.
What I did state was:
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If you don't have grounded receptacles and need to use ground adapters, do so. But, keep an eye on these as they later can break down from overheating and cause a fire.
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Using an adapter (ground adapter) allows you to plug the 3 prong grounded A/C plug into a two hole polarized but non grounded outlet. This in effect does away with the safety provided by the ground connection. Many times people have replaced old non ground type receptacles with ground type receptacles. With these you can plug the 3 prong plug directly into the receptacle. There will still be no ground though unless a ground wire was added to circuit when the receptacle was replaced.
Thank you mr safety for adding your do not under any circumstance do what everyone does and run the A/C without a proper ground. I deal in the real world and people do what they do. Your diatribe has added nothing to this discussion. The OP's question's have been answered and you can get off my other leg!
Have you plugged in a hair drier to a GFI in your bathroom. There's no short but every other time that
resistance heating cranks up ....pop. Same thing happens to a 15 or 20 amp GFI when you have 90 plus LRA going through it. Unless they've improved over the years they couldn't handle it.
You should get some real world experience boy before you pop off to an adult.
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Originally Posted by timfountain
Look, the manufacturer doesn't care about the voltage drop, they care about the fire that an underrated extension cord could cause. The voltage drop is a secondary issue. A cynical person might say that premature failure of the compressor would be good as the hapless owner would then have to go buy a new A/C. Ask yourself what the typical variation in a 110V supply in a typical home could be, don't worry about extension cords or anything else, and than see if your answer makes any sense.
The earthing issue I stand by. I'd agree with you if you wrote something like "under no circumstances should a A/C that requires grounding be run in an ungrounded situation" but you didn't. You started a long diatribe about how you should be careful if you do this. That, IMHO, is bad, bad advise. You obviously disagree, but I hope someone coming across this thread doesn't get the idea that it is OK.
Do you know what a GFCI or a plug LCDI does? Apparently not otherwise you wouldn't start on about LRA's. That has no bearing on the discussion. GFI's and inline LCDI's detect ground faults. Inrush current or steady state current have nothing to do with tripping a GFI, apart from gross over current steady-state situations. You should look into the UL ruling on A/C units and LCDI plugs before you start spouting off again.
Another thing to consider. Find out what plugs are on what circut. Don't put the AC on the same one the microwave is on, for instance, or you might overload the circut, especially if its an older home.
I have a 600 watt window AC at one end of the small house and an 800 watt one at the larger end so even if they are both running they don't pull as much power through the circut. With a good fan to distrubute the air, it works very well.
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