Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Hi all, I'm new here and was searching google about electrical problems and this forum popped up and I've read many of the threads here, but really need to start my own thread with my electrical issue that someone may help me.
Back story..
I've been living in this house for the last 8 years. Same things are plugged in and its the same routine every year.
2 small bedrooms are on 1 30 amp breaker.
Normal items in each room consist of a tv, stereo, computer, clocks (normal bedroom stuff)
During the winter, each room has a 120v lasko oil heater
During the summer, each room has a 120v 5-6000 btu window ac
Been this way for years.
There are three outlets in the main bedroom (I will be talking about, since my daughter hasn't been home to run any electrical items in her room)
One outlet normally only runs the heater during the winter. After winter, its unplugged and stored away.
Another outlet runs a clock, laptop charger and a lamp.
Another outlet runs (and I know this is bad):
Surge protector with speaker power, modem and window a/c
Surge protector with computer, printer, router, fan (extension cord that leads to another surge protector that has tv, tivo, gaming console, stereo and a small fan)
Been like this for years, never any problems.
Last few nights, I've been losing power. Check the breaker, not tripped. I manually flip it, nothing happens. I go around and unplug everything and flip it, and it works again.
I plug everything back in and it will work for hours.. Then fail.
I find it odd that normally, even during the hottest parts of the summer, I can run both a/cs and all these electronics and never have a fail. But I turn on one a/c and run for a couple of hours and its now failing and won't come back on until I unplug everything..
I just counted, there are five 30 amp single breakers in my panel
Receptacles (found on most appliances) cannot be powered by a 30 amp circuit. That was always a code violation. Those 30 amp breakers imply someone with contempt for human life has changed wiring.
Normally I would not post an ASAP answer. But in your case, you needed an electrician yesterday or earlier. You have a potential house fire due to someone's major contempt for human life and overt technical ignorance.
Had you only mentioned power cut off, well, that is often an easily solved failure. But those 30 amp breakers require an OMG and ASAP response. Now we do not know what else he did.
Meanwhile, trace how each recepacle connects back to the box. Power would be in a daisy chained manner. Determine the order of how power goes from breaker box to each receptacle. More information you get means less time and money spent by the electrician to discover same.
Could it be possible that this house could have 10 gauge wiring in it instead of 12?
I mean, I've been running the same stuff for 8 years straight and never had a problem?
Is there a way to measure the gauge of the wire with a micrometer or something?
I know, I know.. I'm just not wanting to think about me living in a fire hazard all these years
Could it be possible that this house could have 10 gauge wiring in it instead of 12?
Physical dimensions of prongs on that plug and wall receptacle define it as 15 amps. Only good for 15 or 20 amp circuits.
There is no magic cut off number. For example, a 20 amp breaker might conduct 25 amps for 2 hours before tripping. Or 40 amps for many seconds. An 18 AWG lamp cord (rated at ten amps) means it can conduct over 50 amps continuous. We simply say 20 amps or 30 amps to make it simpler for layman.
Power on seven 100 watt bulbs simultaneously. Rating is 700 watts. But it first consumes maybe 50 amps (5500 watts). We don't tell laymen this. We make it simple. If it has that two or three prong plug, then it can only be powered by a 15 or 20 amp breaker. Because some exceptions can cause death. Does not matter if failure has not happened yet. What matters is why failures can happen, suddenly, and in a catastrophic manner.
Some big box hardware stores sell a thin plastic sheet that can measure both wire gauge and screw sizes.
Possible your failure was due to a receptacle connection using the back stab method. 10 AWG wire would not fit in those holes. A minor vibration to one receptacle might have made a back stab wire connection intermittent. Which is why you want to trace the daisy chained connection through all receptacles to the one possible offender.
BTW, better electricians wire to side mount screws. Remove each cover plate to inspect those screws for a wire connection. Otherwise a back stab connection might exist that would explain intermittent power loss on all receptacles downstream of that receptacle.
However, if it IS 10 gauge wire, you'll need commercial grade receptacles. Residential grade aren't made to accept wire larger than 12 gauge, even on the side terminals.
Well all the plugs are side screw. My gf mentioned that a month ago we had a heater plugged into one in the living room and the power went out. She unplugged it (didnt touch a breaker and the power came back on)
I'm including this picture (not really sure why lol)
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
