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I found a wallmount airfreshner lodged in a toilet. Someone had dropped it in, or it came off the wall and they thought it would flush. It was spring action and gave every indication of a sewer line problem.
Toilet is one of the common used fixtures in your home and clogged commode can lead to frustration family. Understanding why your toilet backs up will help you prevent future blockage, and keep your plunger where it belongs: away from your toilet. There are five toilet-clogging culprits.
1. You Have a First-Generation Low Flow Toilet
2. You Flushed Non-Flushable Items
3. You Have a Clogged Trap
4. The Plumbing Vent Is Blocked
5. There's an Issue With the Sewer Line
Cast iron pipes rot from the inside out. As they rot the metal swells up and closes off the pipe. If you have older cast iron sewer pipes, they may be restricted down to an few inches or less. Most of the time it is only the horizontal pipes that go bad vertical drop will last a long time (at least a hundred years in most cases, but water chemistry may change that. If you have cast and they are blocked. look at just replacing the horizontal pipes. That is all that is usually necessary. PVC will last a lot longer for horizontal runs, but you do not want PVC for vertical drops, it is really noisy.
There are several possible causes. First, if the pipes in your walls are old, not insulated or properly secured, then they will move when water runs through them. A loose washer or shutoff valve will also vibrate with the flow of water, causing a groaning sound. Finally, a faulty ballcock, the mechanism that fills your water tank while avoiding overflow, can cause very loud vibrations. As it can make noise throughout the house, you may not immediately be able to determine the cause of the disruption.
I had the same problem and I fixed it by buying a new toilet. The original toilet installed by the builder was a piece of junk.
If you buy a new toilet to fix a problem with the drain pipe or venting, you have just flushed your money down the drain. Find out, first, whether the pipes and vents are good. Then, if the indications are that the cause of your problems is the toilet, by all means buy a new one.
If you buy a new toilet to fix a problem with the drain pipe or venting, you have just flushed your money down the drain. Find out, first, whether the pipes and vents are good. Then, if the indications are that the cause of your problems is the toilet, by all means buy a new one.
We had a similar problem with a ground floor toilet on a septic system, and the problem was all the way back to the septic. Opening the first tank exposed a bad separation wall to the second tank which was allowing solids past the first wall, thus allowing buildup at the wall, thus causing high water in the first tank, which caused backup all the way up the line back to the toilet. We were youngsters then and my inventive husband devised a long pole that he used to snake out the line going from the first tank back to the house (not advised for the squeamish) and that solved the problem. Had to do it periodically, tho. And of course this didn't solve the main problem which was in the tanks themselves.
I found a wallmount airfreshner lodged in a toilet. Someone had dropped it in, or it came off the wall and they thought it would flush. It was spring action and gave every indication of a sewer line problem.
We had a mystery plog when the boys were little. They tired everything, became convinced there was somehting in the pipes because it was an old house. hey took the toilet off, camered the pipe- nothing. Ran the camera through the toilet gooseneck and something was there, could not tell what it was. They tried and tried to get it out and finally said this is costing you more than a new toilet will. I took a hammer to the toilet and found a matchbox car stuck in the gooseneck. Plumber bill $150. Replacement toilet - about $80. If it is time for a new toilet anyway, just replace it. That may be a cheaper way to figure out whether it is the pipes. New matchbox car - $4.00
"I was just wondering if there is a limitation to the type of shutoff valves that can be used underneath a kitchen sink."
There is no code requirement as to specific type of shutoff. The type most frequently used is the angle valve, and with good reason. They are simple to install and come in different configurations. I have also seen ball or gate valves used, as well as threaded, sweated, or compression. Go with whatever works for you.
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