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Well, that changes things! The leak could literally be coming from any joint of the trim on the face of the dormer (and it's quite possible it could be coming from anywhere where the shingles meet the dormer).
The most probable correction is removing all the trim on the face of the dormer, removing the window unit, flashing the bottom of the window opening, resetting the window, flashing the window unit's entire perimeter with butyl flashing- starting from the bottom and overlapping as you move up, reinstall the trim- caulk&paint.
I had a leak just like that. The water was getting in behind the trim board on the side of the dormer. Poorly flashed and inadequately caulked.
Thanks for the tips. I guess the window company would take all the trim off and look? I can't do it. I don't have a tall enough ladder but even then, I really couldn't even climb a ladder that high and work on something when I don't know what I am doing. I don't even think I will ask my boyfriend to do it and he's pretty handy with things.
No one really answered my main question. If I get all this stuff removed, including the window, can the old windows be put back in or do I need to have replacements?
Anyway, here are the pictures. Sorry it took so long. I had to wait until I got home from work. For some reason, when I upload one photo to CitiData, the site makes it upside down. I can't get it to load right side up. I had to use a flashlight so you can see where it gets wet. Where the light is shining is exactly where the water comes in. I know this because last time it rained I kept sticking my fingers under the window and eventually, I found a spot where water was seeping in first. The drywall at the sides of the box (dormer I suppose) is dry. The wood is dry.
This was right after the drywall was removed. It had been raining a lot including a really hard rain.
This one is when it's mostly dry. We had another rain and it was only barely wet right under the window.
The upside down one showing the exact spot water first starts seeping in when it rains.
In answer to your original question, if the window is currently not damaged and the workers do not damage it when/if they remove it, there is no reason it cannot be reinstalled.
In answer to your original question, if the window is currently not damaged and the workers do not damage it when/if they remove it, there is no reason it cannot be reinstalled.
Thanks! Fixing this sort of thing and windows in general aren't something I know a lot about. So I want to know before talking to the window guy what some real options are. I know in the past some home repair people tried to pull fast ones on me but I knew enough not to be fooled into paying for more than what I needed. This, however, is something I am a little in the dark about.
I know the window needs to come out to fix the wood under it. You might be able to see from the pictures, but there is a piece of plywood that is pretty much okay. There is a gap and then there is more wood supporting the window. A big chunk of that wood under the window is soft and damaged and should be replaced in my opinion. Especially since I don't know how bad it is and won't know how bad until the window comes out. If the window can be put back in, that's great.
My only concern would now be, what if the window is damaged and they need to replace it. It could take weeks for a replacement to come in. So I will have to think about that after I talk to the window person next week.
After looking at the pics I think I know the problem.
You have a "twin window"- and you say the leak usually shows up just about in the middle (between both windows)?
Vinyl window frames are made in a way where they can be "married" together to make "twin windows" with a "mull". It's a vinyl piece that ties both units together. This piece is a friction connection- and requires caulking at both ends. The caulking can't be done when a window is installed.
I think the problem is two-fold. The mull is not waterproof anymore- most likely due to expansion and contraction. The best way to improve the seal is to remove the mull- caulk the mull seats with 100% silicone caulk then reset the mull. Also, recaulk the ends. There's also the possibility that there were no screws added to the frame connection to help reinforce the married units; allowing them to flex too much in the middle.
Thank you for that analysis! I don’t think anyone has looked between the windows. And I don’t think the man who came and re-caulked the windows did anything between the windows. I will take a look at it today.
Looks like condensation to me. You need to purchase a dehumidifier, I am pretty sure you have a lot of moisture in the air. Are you near the beach or a lake?
I used to have an office near the beach and the dehumidifier used to take 4 gallons of water a day....!
Looks like condensation to me. You need to purchase a dehumidifier, I am pretty sure you have a lot of moisture in the air. Are you near the beach or a lake?
I used to have an office near the beach and the dehumidifier used to take 4 gallons of water a day....!
Guess you missed the part about it gets wet when it rains...
Guess you missed the part about it gets wet when it rains...
Yeah, pretty much the only time water comes in is when it rains. The stain only got that huge because we had a really bad storm with a lot of water (I think something like half an inch in a few hours). That's when the drywall turned to mush.
I think if we didn't have that storm, I wouldn't have known there was an issue for a lot longer. The other day we had mist, fog and drizzle the sill stayed stayed dry. It only barely got damp during normal rain, but it got damp.
I didn't get a chance to look at the window mull today (too many Saturday chores). But tomorrow the weather is supposed to be warmer and I will open the window and take a look at it and see if there is a gap or if it's lose (luckily I am short enough woman that I can stand on the window sill and open the top sash and stick my head out). I'll still need to find someone to fix it even if that's the issue. I'll be honest, I am terrified of climbing on a ladder that high. I have a hard time climbing on my little 8 foot ladder and will only do so if someone knows I am doing it and knows that I am done. I had a bad accident once where I fell and ended up needing surgery. It wasn't off a ladder, but it's hard to shake that fear.
I really hope that's the issue because it sounds like a easy fix and it's something I don't think anyone looked at it.
After looking at the pics I think I know the problem.
You have a "twin window"- and you say the leak usually shows up just about in the middle (between both windows)?
Vinyl window frames are made in a way where they can be "married" together to make "twin windows" with a "mull". It's a vinyl piece that ties both units together. This piece is a friction connection- and requires caulking at both ends. The caulking can't be done when a window is installed.
I think the problem is two-fold. The mull is not waterproof anymore- most likely due to expansion and contraction. The best way to improve the seal is to remove the mull- caulk the mull seats with 100% silicone caulk then reset the mull. Also, recaulk the ends. There's also the possibility that there were no screws added to the frame connection to help reinforce the married units; allowing them to flex too much in the middle.
So I was able to look today. There is a thin strip (mull) that is between the two windows. It looks okay but when I run my hand down it, I can feel that it's warped slightly. I was also able to see the caulk at the bottom (can't see the top looking out the window). The caulk at the bottom is very dried out and appears to have shrunk. So it probably is leaking. I know from past experience water doesn't need a a lot of space to star leaking in.
When the window guy comes here, I will ask if he can fix that (or his company). If not, I will ask the handyman who re-caulked the windows for me a few weeks ago. Hopefully, that will stop the leak.
Thank you again.
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