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I'm getting mixed answers/estimates from roofers/contractors for anywhere from 3' to 6' to the entire roof...
I know that 3' is code, but most are quoting 6' or full roof.
A guy we really liked and is highly recommended said 3' is all he ever does (and gave various reasons why, which all sounded good, but then again anything he said would have sounded good to me...!).
And if you still have doubt or misunderstanding, contact your homeowners Ins Co and/or local agent for their requirements. Remember, codes are “minimal requirements”. Not to say you can’t go over and above, but sometimes the extra cost doesn’t outweigh the “performance”.
I had mine replaced in the spring of '23, and again last month for hail damage. I trust that the roofer I use (commonly regarded as the best in the area) is doing what needs to be done... or he wouldn't be at the top of the heap.
I'm getting mixed answers/estimates from roofers/contractors for anywhere from 3' to 6' to the entire roof...
I know that 3' is code, but most are quoting 6' or full roof.
A guy we really liked and is highly recommended said 3' is all he ever does (and gave various reasons why, which all sounded good, but then again anything he said would have sounded good to me...!).
Sorry, I forgot to post that I'm in CT, so am mostly looking for responses from those in colder climates...
Sorry, I forgot to post that I'm in CT, so am mostly looking for responses from those in colder climates...
Thank you.
Well, your profile has Westchester Co., NY- hence the reason for posting the link.
But, the answer is still the same- do your homework; find out what the (minimum) requirements are for CT. Then use that information to make an educated decision. All the responses you are getting from posters may or maynot give you the right information.
And, as I stated in my previous post- contact your ins co also.
FWIW, in the South the heavier barrier near the eaves and in the valleys is the same material that is commonly used as the finished roof on a mobile home or travel trailer.
The material is synthetic (and if you believe the eco-nonsense about plastics, lasts forever). It has some UV resistance, and an adhesive back - think really heavy-duty contact paper. The standard underlay these days is a thinner version of the same material without the sticky back. Tar paper and the like have fallen out of favor.
Key issue with any underlay is that it has to retain some flexibility, to limit stress on it making holes or tears that water can penetrate.
Growing up in Vermont, sheet (or roll) aluminum (or sometimes galvanized steel) that went about a foot over the attic space and all the way down to the drip edge was used. The warmth of the attic could melt snow, the colder eaves and overhang formed ice dams. Once the electric heating wire was available, and placed in a zig-zag pattern, ice dams became a non-issue if you remembered to plug it in when conditions warranted it. Those icicles could be killers though.
How ever wide the roll is and a bit wider than the overhang of the roof. It's for ice dams, so I don't know what purpose it would serve for covering an entire roof that had been installed correctly, except for upping the cost tremendously because ice shield is expensive.
If you put the heat strips along the overhang while the roof is being installed then you don't have to worry about ice dams, for as long as the heat strips are still working. I'd still do the ice shield even with heat strips.
It kind of depends on where you are. In Texas I have never seen an ice dam in 60 years. In Massachusetts this was multiple times every winter.
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The standard underlay these days is a thinner version of the same material without the sticky back. Tar paper and the like have fallen out of favor.