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Well, I've been at it with the Wonder Software all day...and I think I may have settled on a plan, although it is FAR from the idea I started with. Amazingly far! I was about ready to punch out the walls to the largest bedroom and go for broke...interesting what taking a little time and playing with something will do for you! I have a plan...now I'm going to run it by the kitchen designer and see just how badly I've messed up - but I surely do like it, although I would have said NO if I hadn't seen it in 3-D! The dining room wall is coming out for the most part, so I scarfed a few inches here and a few there and it made all the difference in the world.
IRA - question - I do need to move the sink about 20" to make everything come out even and line up right...so this isn't as huge of a problem as I was lead to believe?
One other thing...can your vent hood vent directly into the attic, or does it need to have a pipe extend all the way to the roof (egads!)? Please remember we have an 11' attic. Rather than turbines or whatever those whirly things are called on the roof, we have huge wooden slatted vents with screening on the inside at the gables.
While we're at it, does anyone have a thought on downdraft versus hood? The only comment I've read that made sense to me was that a downdraft sucked the heat off the stove when cooking and changed the cooking time some...something I suppose I could adjust to and never really thought about...
As you can see, I'm a little panicked about this...I feel like I have one shot to get it right...and I never get anything right the first time...!
Well, I've been at it with the Wonder Software all day...and I think I may have settled on a plan, although it is FAR from the idea I started with. Amazingly far! I was about ready to punch out the walls to the largest bedroom and go for broke...interesting what taking a little time and playing with something will do for you! I have a plan...now I'm going to run it by the kitchen designer and see just how badly I've messed up - but I surely do like it, although I would have said NO if I hadn't seen it in 3-D! The dining room wall is coming out for the most part, so I scarfed a few inches here and a few there and it made all the difference in the world.
IRA - question - I do need to move the sink about 20" to make everything come out even and line up right...so this isn't as huge of a problem as I was lead to believe?
One other thing...can your vent hood vent directly into the attic, or does it need to have a pipe extend all the way to the roof (egads!)? Please remember we have an 11' attic. Rather than turbines or whatever those whirly things are called on the roof, we have huge wooden slatted vents with screening on the inside at the gables.
While we're at it, does anyone have a thought on downdraft versus hood? The only comment I've read that made sense to me was that a downdraft sucked the heat off the stove when cooking and changed the cooking time some...something I suppose I could adjust to and never really thought about...
As you can see, I'm a little panicked about this...I feel like I have one shot to get it right...and I never get anything right the first time...!
Sam, keep in mind those do-it-yourself 3-D design programs do not include every cabinet size there is. They are very very basic programs for home use. The professional planners are 20/20 Vision or Planet, or even Cabinetware.
Moving your sink 20" is hard to give advice on since we ain't there to look at it. But also while making your plan, keep in mind there is no such thing as 20". Cabinet industry standards are in 3" incriments. Bases start at 6" and walls start at 9" and go up in 3" incriments up to a max of 48" unless it is a vanity which goes up to 60". Even the simplest of home planners should guide you to a total length of specific boxes with the left over 3" or less being filled with a 3" filler cut to size.
It is never a good idea to put a filler in the middle of any run. There are rare times when we must but I will spend all the time I can trying not to.
Here is another tip for you. Forget about all one height. Add some style. Try taking the over the micro cabinet up 6" higher then the rest and 3" out further then the rest. From here you can do this with the over the refer built in cabinet and even the wall oven cabinet with the heights.
If it is a long length you can do it again with a glass door wall cab up 6 and out 3.
Now try taking the sink base out to 27" which is 3" past the rest. The granite guys hate this but it looks awesome. Take the range top cabinet out just the same. You can even angle transition it out.
Dont forget to add crown molding. It is not always customary to add crown in some parts of the country. The northeast for example almost never does crown. But then again few designers mention it so the poor customer dont know it exists.
I like under cabinet molding too. Even if you dont have under cabinet lighting it is still nice.
I still owe you your dealer list. Be patient. I will get to it.
Sam,
I don't think that moving the sink 20 inches is going to cost you more than a few hundred dollars in labor,plus materials, plus whatever you're putting under the sink(material and labor to install that)...and taking down walls can make all the difference in the world.
After reading what Ira said I think I misunderstood you Sam. You mean move the sink and not the sink base? 20" is pushing it but if you can plan for a wide SB48 then you can put it to one side or another as long as the plumbing is still inside the box.
I hope your happy at whatever you installed but that cabinet guy was a dope. A kitchen with all drawers and no doors in the bases? The only negative of pull out trays is you lose an inch for the drawer guides and another inch for the drawer sides whereby a shelf is full width so you are also utilizing behind the stile space. But the usable space you lose you gain more positive by greater accessability.
Maybe, but I have totally accessibility with drawers. And no inches lost.
I don't have to open a door and then pull out a tray. These are approx. 28" wide drawers - 2 on the bottom, with 2 smaller drawers on top. Yes, it kind of looks like a dresser...so?
Plus, I saved the expense of adding trays. And drawers are deeper than trays.
It works for me, anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by desertsun41
What did some one say several threads back? Bending all the way down on both knees and reaching into a big dark space?
I have artificial knees, so I can't get down on my knees to dig stuff out.
BTW, you're right about the crown molding!
Last edited by Southlander; 08-09-2008 at 09:32 PM..
Our last house was built in the 1870's and we totally gutted the kitchen down to the lath to remodel the kitchen. We put in a ceramic tile floor. It looked great, but I would not do it again. If you drop any dishes or glassware on ceramic tile it shatters. It was very hard to stand on and a kid with a hammer can break tiles while cracking walnuts. Last week I was in the flooring store and saw a new floor product. It looked like ceramic tile but it was rubbery. Think of linoleum on steroids. Water wouldn't hurt it, pets wouldn't hurt it, it was soft to walk on, and easy to maintain. I'd go with that on my floor.
No real ideas about anything else in a kitchen but if Iever have oportunity to re do a floor, I am going with vinyl, congoleum, linoleum, whatever you call it. No more ceramic,hard tile. No more wood or laminate. Who cares what is 'in'!
Get something durable, scrubbable, that won't bubble or buckle with splishs and splashs. that a breakable dish won't shatter into a million pieces on.
My sis has some 20+ yr.old linoleum whatever, that looks like a hardwood floor. it looks so good and has worn well.. I had to get down on the floor and tap on it to believe it!
Oh I missed that...IMO maybe get a vent free hood...but at least have a window in the kitchen you can open up to air it out if you burn something or cook something funky
Maybe, but I have totally accessibility with drawers. And no inches lost.
I don't have to open a door and then pull out a tray. These are approx. 28" wide drawers - 2 on the bottom, with 2 smaller drawers on top. Yes, it kind of looks like a dresser...so?
Plus, I saved the expense of adding trays. And drawers are deeper than trays.
It works for me, anyway.
I have artificial knees, so I can't get down on my knees to dig stuff out.
BTW, you're right about the crown molding!
Im glad it works for you. You do gain a little bit of usable space with trays. But just so others know....a drawer bank does cost more then a base with top drawer and bottom doors with trays behind them.
Your probably right that it looks like a dresser but if it works for you then that is more important.
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