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Old 08-30-2008, 10:22 AM
 
Location: Pocono Mts.
9,480 posts, read 12,144,018 times
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Metal Roofing Wholesalers sells all styles of metal roofs to the public nationwide

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Old 08-30-2008, 10:53 AM
 
Location: Floribama
18,951 posts, read 43,837,436 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riveree View Post
This manufacturer was not speaking of standing seam, but their product was good-looking enough that maybe I don't need to go for the more labor-intensive standing seam (and more expensive, it sounds? ).
I didn't use standing seam, it is more difficult to install and it is more expensive. The kind I used does have exposed screw heads, but I still think it looks okay and most other people are using it also. The standing seam is more popular on higher end homes and businesses.

I used the type shown here (scroll to bottom)..
New Page 1 (http://www.dixiebuildingsupply.com/ROLLFORMER.htm - broken link)
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Old 08-30-2008, 03:39 PM
 
Location: Jax
8,200 posts, read 35,535,598 times
Reputation: 3443
The first link is nice. Those spanish tile look metal panels look awesome. My roof doesn't have enough of a slope I don't think, but wow, looking at all these metal roof links, what a variety!

The second link helps a lot too, I'll delve into those as well.

Right now, Hurricane Gustav is hot on our tail here in FL with Hanna right behind, so this project may be on hold for a bit .
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Old 08-30-2008, 03:44 PM
 
Location: Jax
8,200 posts, read 35,535,598 times
Reputation: 3443
Quote:
Originally Posted by southernnaturelover View Post
I didn't use standing seam, it is more difficult to install and it is more expensive. The kind I used does have exposed screw heads, but I still think it looks okay and most other people are using it also. The standing seam is more popular on higher end homes and businesses.

I used the type shown here (scroll to bottom)..
New Page 1 (http://www.dixiebuildingsupply.com/ROLLFORMER.htm - broken link)
Cool pics of the process . I love they panels you used, that's a great look.

Yeah, I'm thinking standing seam is going to be overkill for this house. The value is all about the location here, not so much the house .
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:59 PM
 
Location: Cary, NC
43,515 posts, read 77,535,595 times
Reputation: 45857
Quote:
Originally Posted by riveree View Post
Cool pics of the process . I love they panels you used, that's a great look.

Yeah, I'm thinking standing seam is going to be overkill for this house. The value is all about the location here, not so much the house .
Hey, can you post a photo of the house so we can rail on with our opinions?
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:36 AM
 
3,042 posts, read 7,964,274 times
Reputation: 4017
I have put my 2 cents in once already and since have had my new just moved in home done with metal roof,if you are in Florida they have added very strict code to either asphalt or metal roofing.A licensed contractor is required.I had to get notorized copy done.If asphalt,code says all shingles removed and roof renailed etc.Metal roof has to be done in a particular way,all for your protction.Fly by nighter handyman will bring nothing but trouble.This area had sting operation and arrested handymen from advertisements.You can google metal roofs and get excellent idea's on metal roof installation.
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Old 02-20-2009, 11:40 PM
 
2 posts, read 4,841 times
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I used Metal Sales. ( [url=http://www.metalsales.us.com]Commercial Metal Roofing Manufacturer Metal Siding Indiana Metal Roofing Manufacturer[/url])

pathologist
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Old 08-28-2009, 04:35 PM
 
Location: WNC
1,571 posts, read 2,980,806 times
Reputation: 1621
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones
Just my 2 cents. Why not put steel panels over an existing roof....You should strip with 1 x 4's screwed ( not nailed) every 2' across the 3' span anyways.....
Here in TN there are a lot of places that will take the rollstock and form and cut the panels to length for ya then deliver them to your location....
I know this thread is old, but some proper information might help someone out who might see this thread.

First off, our family business has been selling, distributing, and installing metal roofs for about 20 years. About 3 years ago, we quit doing installations because doing all 3 got to be quite a headache.

Anyways, yes you can put metal over shingles. Just remember, you have to have a buffer between the metal and the shingles. A roof will expand and contract depending on temperature and that can make shingles rub the coating off the back of the metal panel, possibly causing rust. So here's the 2 options: 1. As someone mentioned above use 1x4 slats. We always preferred Yellow Pine(we actually sell them), because of it's holding power. The benefit of slatting is it takes out the swag that might be in an existing roof. Plus, it puts that airspace between the existing roof and new roof, which helps with ventilation, which can help a house stay cooler in the summer. And no, you do not have to screw. We used ring shank nails on every house we did, with absolutely no problems. Not saying screwing them in is bad, but just completely unnecessary. Also, you cannot put metal in contact with treated lumber. The chemicals do not react well with metal. Matter of fact, most metal roofing companies will void the warranty if metal is put over treated wood. 2. You can use either felt, or titanium. The only real benefit IMO, is that it's quicker. Unless a roof has bad swags, underlayment works just fine. As long as you get good quality, strong metal, you wont see unevenness in the shingles, unless it is VERY pronounced.

Someone mentioned about the metal adding additional weight that would harm the roof. This is why generally the accepted tolerance level of putting on top of shingles is if the existing roof has no more than 1 layer. More than 1 layer and it is strongly recommended that you tear the shingles off. But putting over top of 1 layers is just fine. Unless you live in a poorly built, rickety house, weight will not be an issue.
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Old 08-28-2009, 04:38 PM
 
Location: WNC
1,571 posts, read 2,980,806 times
Reputation: 1621
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
J
Here in TN there are a lot of places that will take the rollstock and form and cut the panels to length for ya then deliver them to your location....
just a heads up. Those places that you mentioned make nothing but junk when you compare it with quality roofing from bigger companies. Here's why they cant offer an equal-quality panel. From the coil suppliers, the big companies are first on the list. They get whatever is left, which is usually seconds, which is lower quality metal, both in thickness(or lack thereof) and paint quality.
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Old 08-28-2009, 04:42 PM
 
Location: WNC
1,571 posts, read 2,980,806 times
Reputation: 1621
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodpasture View Post
There are way too many metal roofs to make blanket statements.

Are you considering 31 guage, 29 ga, 26 ga, 24 ga? Will it be ribbed? Standing seam? Will you need clips and a crimper?

Metal roofs are engineered products. the number of screws and placement of securing points are critical to allow for uplift. Remember, the roof acts as an airfoil and will try to lift when the winds blow over it.

Assuming your nephew is competent (and this whole thing assumes that anyone you contract with will be competent and that you have verified their reputations) then the second step, after determining the engineering specs for the type of roof you want to install, is to ask for basic installation instructions. It may be that the supplier/engineer says that you are not adding sufficient load to worry about structural issues, and that installation over existing roofing is acceptable. There may be caveats on that as well. It might be that he recommends installation over one layer of asphalt shingles only. It may be that he likes one layer of 15# felt under it. It may be that he wants 1 x 4 "purlins" to hold the metal off the roof regardless of the substrate. You need to find out how to install the steel you want, in the configuration you want.

y personal preference is to remove the existing roof covering, apply 2 x 4's horizontally across the roof at 2' on center even for 26 guage (if you are using 26 ga, that can be 4' on center; if you are using 24 ga, you can space them at 6' oc). I then prefer using a hidden clip, crimped on standing seam configuration that allows for no roof penetrations of any kind except for vent pipes and other PME components. You never see a screw, so you never have to replace a screw.

If I were using 29 ga or 31 ga "R" panel barn metal, then strip the roof to the deck, make sure all the decking is solid and in good repair, apply felt (I prefer 30#) and install the steel tight to the deck, with stitch screws on caulked seams at 12" oc, and horisontal screws 1 ' oc horizontally, with rows 2' apart. Make sure you have all screws with solid, intact, neoprene washers. Have some oversized stitch screws available in case you strip one out and you have to replace it with a thicker screw. Replace any screw that strips out with an over sized screw so you have all tight fitting screws.
15# felt is not recommended by most reputable metal roofing companies. Most require a minimum of 30# felt.

But, when it comes to residential stuff, as long as it is from a good company, 29ga is more than enough for a house. We sell Fabral and Central States, which are known in the industry as being the industry standard(especially Fabral). Fabral's 29ga is as thick as some companies 26ga. Now in a hurricane area I might could see the want for 26ga just for extra peace of mind.
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