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But I can't go any further until I get the broadband cable turned on - which I hope will be near the end of the week.
One guy at Comcast told me I can't do the self-install and will need a Comcast person to come out and do something to turn it on, another guy told me I can do the self-install ...... I am hoping the second guy was right so I don't have to wait until they can come out here to turn it on.
I'm not familiar with Comcast, but our service loves to tell you they have to install it because they charge $99. When they told me that (I used to consult and would install for clients) I would tell them to cancel because I refused to pay the fee. They waived the fee every time. But that's my service I don't know what Comcast will do.
That's sort of what the installation guy did, the one who was working for a third-party call center - He told me they would have to install it and I said, the cable is already in the wall, what is to install? Then he said, oh, it looks like you are eligible for self-install, but my computer is locking up and it won't let me add that to your account.
Then he said, I will transfer you to this department where they have more permissions than I do.
I basically think he did that because I wouldn't agree to pay for them to "install" something.
The "install" includes them plugging it in and phoning in the MAC address for the modem.
FYI if you're only getting internet service from Comcast buy your own modem. There is something like a $5 rental charge each month to use their modem which can be picked up for about $50. They won't allow you to that if you're going to use their VOIP service.
Ok, now I am confused again. I am reading the "quick installation" guide from that site, and for the first step, its saying I need to plug ethernet cables from the PC into this router, and then also plug the router into the modem. Why do I have to plug this into my computer AND the modem? ...
I didn't set up that brand, but I have a Netgear wireless router. It's just easier to set up the router and your passwords and whatnot for the first time, and get any downloads accomplished with a wired connection. I'd say that's especially true of the older routers. The techs used to always advise using a hardwired PC for the setup. So, yes, you plus the router to the cable co's modem (or yours) and then plug your PC to that, at least for setup. After it's set up, you can easily go wireless.
Big Lots sells ethernet cables for around $6 or $7. You can even get cables at the $1.00 Dollar store with the big green letters (we have those in western PA), but I don't know how good a $1 ethernet cable is, haha.
Cable modems: I have a Motorola SURFboard that I got at a thrift store for only $5. I think there's possibly some issue with them degrading and introducing signal noise over time, but the one I bought has no problems. It even came with box and cable.
You'll probably find that your Internet connection hardwired is faster than it is using wireless. Mine is, but not vastly different for normal Internet browsing. For big downloads, and installing operating systems that need to d/l updates, I use a wired connection.
I set my router to WPA-PSK + WPA2-PSK, changed the password, and the PCs are all set to connect automatically. With my router, you have to type the password the first time but the PCs log in automatically without you typing a password every time. So, a dropped connection just reconnects silently and doesn't prompt for a password.
I put a wireless card in the desktop machine (even though it sits right beside the router) because in stormy weather I can then just unplug the power strip that is for that PC and its monitor and USb printer, and then it's totally unplugged from all AC power and TV cable so it can't be affected by any lightning strikes or power surges from the storms. I leave the cable modem and wireless router plugged in and powered on and then can use the laptop on battery to track storms. I am willing to sacrifice a $5 secondhand cable modem and a $45 router to a lightning strike, lol, but not my $1000+ computers.
eta: You can download the free program inSSIDER. It will show you the neighboring wireless networks that are within range and might be conflicting with yours. You can change your channel on the router (I think you can do that with yours) and get it into a channel that maybe nobody else is suing. 1, 6 , 11 are channels that don't overlap. I had probs setting up my router, and when I looked at inSSIDER, mine was on "auto" and was hovering on Channel 2, and all of the neighbors routers were clustered on channels 1 and 2, except for the people up the street who are more tech-savvy and grabbed 6. I changed to 11 and have no interference from the neighbors now.
While looking at that, apparently several of my neighbors let the cable co. set up their wireless. Their routers are all Belkins, the networks are their last names, all are on channel 1, are 54bps, and have NO security enabled on them at all. For that reason, don't pay the cable co. -- just set it up right yourself.
Last edited by SorryIMovedBack; 08-28-2012 at 11:42 AM..
That is not a secure password. For ultimate security, it should have upper and lower case letters, and symbols, and be at least 8 characters long, as well as a password that you'll remember. Something like: #$@#!YesDearAsInstructed!
>;-D
So I called Comcast today and even though my Comcast 4G card expires tomorrow night at midnight, the guy I talked to was really nice, so he put me into the system as a new customer and gave me a great price for the first 6 months of service.
Unfortunately, they have to send a truck out to turn on the signal to my cable, which won't happen until next week, but in the end, I ended up with a better deal than the third-party re-seller offered me, without any additional fees, so I now feel like my 4 hours of h*ll last Sunday were almost worth it.
That is not a secure password. For ultimate security, it should have upper and lower case letters, and symbols, and be at least 8 characters long, as well as a password that you'll remember. Something like: #$@#!YesDearAsInstructed!
>;-D
Or 5h3Wh0mu5tB30b3y3d!!!
Great to hear the news, Kitten. Sometimes perseverance pays off.
Great to hear the news, Kitten. Sometimes perseverance pays off.
thanks, what is even funnier is my 4G card is still working as I type!! That is 13.5 hours past the supposed "cut off" time. I was dreading an internet-free weekend, but if the card does stop working, I may actually get something productive done.
I have the same router. I have a cox connection. Cable and Broadband are not the same thing. One uses the round coaxle and the other uses a phone plug type of connection.
I also have a the modem made by linksys. This is what I have to do.
My coaxle cable goes into my modem. I plug the router into the modem. Plug the computer into the router. Turn everything on. Wait till the light that says computer is no longer blinking. Check your internet connection.
Open your browser. Enter, Http://192.168.1 it should bring up your router access screen. Enter the default password, no user name till you set one. Go to the wireless menu and turn it on.
I think the rest is pretty self explanatory.
If you want to secure your wireless connection, you can do it in the wireless security settings in the router menus.
Go to the computer you want to find the router, make sure it is set up for wireless, it should find the network. Enter the same password you put on the router.
Basically that is it.
(be sure to change your default password and enter a screen name or anybody can get onto your network and make changes to your router settings. )
I have to call Cox and tell them the id number of my modem so they can find it. Not sure if you will need to do something like that or not.
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