[WVREDLEG]

Originally Posted by MissTee_

Can I ask what is the reason to open the faucet before opening the water valve?

Tek_Freek explains in the last paragraph of post #25. If the lines are all closed, as you turn on water, the air in the lines compresses as water displaces air, and if your connections are not sealed you might get a "fire hose" experience. Sporty's technique would allow the air to escape and slow the pressurization of the lines, so if you are leaking, it will probably manifest as a fast drip instead of a "fire hose".


BTW, I used Shark-Bites on 1" copper and on 3/4" PEX for a softener and it worked great. Key is a straight cut on your pipe, preparing the end of the pipe to receive the fitting, and seating the press-on fitting all the way.

[Tek_Freek]

^^ Agree. And thanks. I missed that.

[MissTee_]

Originally Posted by Tek_Freek

You haven't. It's a process that seems difficult, but taken a step at a time it isn't. The biggest challenge you'll face is the unfamiliarity with the tools. It will be messy, and you will get frustrated at some point (we all do), but perseverance pays off.

Don't get in a hurry. Watch a bunch of YouTube videos. Post here about anything that you don't understand or if you run into a problem.

If you haven't yet post to this forum on CD. Lot of knowledgeable people there.

Thank you, I appreciate the encouragement. Will try to get the parts and the torch and will practice soldering first and see if we feel more comfortable (connecting the pipes before the softener & the water filter) arrive. I'll post more questions as they come.

Thanks for the link as well. I think you'll see me more often over there from now on

[MissTee_]

Originally Posted by WVREDLEG

Tek_Freek explains in the last paragraph of post #25. If the lines are all closed, as you turn on water, the air in the lines compresses as water displaces air, and if your connections are not sealed you might get a "fire hose" experience. Sporty's technique would allow the air to escape and slow the pressurization of the lines, so if you are leaking, it will probably manifest as a fast drip instead of a "fire hose".


BTW, I used Shark-Bites on 1" copper and on 3/4" PEX for a softener and it worked great. Key is a straight cut on your pipe, preparing the end of the pipe to receive the fitting, and seating the press-on fitting all the way.

Ah ok. It makes sense. Thank you for the explanation.

[robojester]

Soldering in very easy as the solder is drawn in by capillary action.

MOST failures will be due to poor prep.

You want things CLEAN AND SHINY !

If you run into problems let me know I could come give you a demo.

[SportyandMisty]

Originally Posted by MissTee_

As for the RO, we have another challenge with the sink edge fully covered by the countertop

I may not understand the challenge. Can you take a picture and post it? What is the countertop surface?

Is the issue there are not enough holes for the things you need (faucet, soap dispenser, air gap for dishwasher, RO spigot, instant hot, whatever?)

Is the issue that you need to drill another opening for the RO spigot?

[SportyandMisty]

Originally Posted by MissTee_

I have traditional tank.

I have a suggestion for you to follow for your traditional tank water heater. You didn't ask for advice on this, but all the equipment is right there in the garage next to your water softener project, so I'll offer up a couple suggestions.

Traditional tank water heaters will last a very, very long time IF they are properly maintained. Not many people do the maintenance, so they fail & have to be replaced. If you maintain them, they won't fail. The good news is this is something pretty much any homeowner can do by themselves.

1) Attach a garden hose to the drain at the bottom of the tank, and run the hose out to the street. Open the spigot and let water & sediment drain out for about 3-5 minutes or so. Do this every month or so. If you forget, don't kick yourself; even doing it 4 times/year helps quite a bit. The objective is to get sediment out of the tank.

2) Every 5 years, replace the "sacrificial anode rod". This is a rod about the diameter of your thumb that hangs from the top of the tank down about 4 feet into the water inside the tank. The rod is typically solid aluminum, although sometimes it is solid magnesium. The water "eats away" the anode rod over time (hence the adjective "sacrificial") INSTEAD of eating the steel of the tank. The sacrificial anode rod is designed to be replaced, but not many people know this let alone do this. You will not find the part in stock at Home Depot, but you will at a place such as Standard Plumbing Supply. They cost about $25 to $30.

Note that if you do not maintain the water heater, the sacrificial anode rod will eventually be consumed, and then the water will start to eat away at the steel of the tank, and at some point it will spring a leak. Then the tank must be replaced. Replacement tanks typically come in two varieties: tanks with a 6 year warranty, and tanks with a 12 year warranty. The only difference between these two types, aside from price, is the tank with the 12 year warranty has two sacrificial anode rods rather than one.

More preventative tips for the homeowner can be found at www.waterheaterrescue.com

[Tek_Freek]

^^ Thank you for the reminder. I am one that knows this but gets wrapped up in so many other things that I forget.

And it is time to drain the tank. Next year the anode check is due.

[Tek_Freek]

Originally Posted by MissTee_

As for the RO, we have another challenge with the sink edge fully covered by the countertop

Originally Posted by SportyandMisty

I may not understand the challenge. Can you take a picture and post it? What is the countertop surface?

Is the issue there are not enough holes for the things you need (faucet, soap dispenser, air gap for dishwasher, RO spigot, instant hot, whatever?)

Is the issue that you need to drill another opening for the RO spigot?

I wonder as well. When they put our sink in they drilled for the faucets, soap dispenser, garbage disposal (it's a button you push down instead of a switch on the wall) and the RO.

Because of limited space they had to drill through the granite and part of the stainless steel sink - the flat part that sits under the granite and on top of the plywood. It was a bear, and included some bad words aimed at the person who installed (I still don't know why) and some mumbling.



This is a picture from my blog page for the remodel.

If I was designing an RO tank it would be flatter, thinner, and taller. The current design takes up more space than it should. It should be shaped so it will set flush against the wall.

[lvmensch]

Originally Posted by Tek_Freek

If I was designing an RO tank it would be flatter, thinner, and taller. The current design takes up more space than it should. It should be shaped so it will set flush against the wall.

That is the standard pressure vessel problem. You want to make them round. I would think though you could use two or three cylindrical tanks for a flatter profile.