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The M-1, the Garand, is my vehicle rifle. It's a long range rifle and battle proven. If you're facing a sniper, this can save your life.
Nothing personal, but at 9.5 lbs and 4' in length... I wouldn't call the M1 the most versatile weapon to bring on target in a slew of situations. As for snipers... I think you have bigger problems than trying to get to your trunk and play counter sniper unless you are involved in sort of take the high ground offensive survivalist mode (which seems pretty silly to me).
While earlier I advocated the .12 gauge shotgun, personally, I am even more in favor of an M4 or Mini 14 type weapons. In my mind, be it survival or general chaos if I have to make a shot over 100 meters, I'm out there to begin with.
The M-1, the Garand, is my vehicle rifle. It's a long range rifle and battle proven. If you're facing a sniper, this can save your life. Load the clips (they're clips, not magazines) alternating soft point, AP, and tracer. Carrying a few clips of incendiaries gives more options. In areas of high fire danger, remove the tracers. Clips only hold eight rounds, but are very fast to load..
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Originally Posted by ovcatto
Nothing personal, but at 9.5 lbs and 4' in length... I wouldn't call the M1 the most versatile weapon to bring on target in a slew of situations. As for snipers... I think you have bigger problems than trying to get to your trunk and play counter sniper unless you are involved in sort of take the high ground offensive survivalist mode (which seems pretty silly to me).
No, it's not versatile. It's a long range battle rifle. That is, it's useful for distances up to 1000 yards. At that distance, any hit that I made would be pure chance; but I could make my opponents very uncomfortable. The .223 is not an effective stopper beyond a hundred yards (Marshall and Sanow); the intermediate 7.62x39 doesn't have the range. The .30-06 and .308 Wichester use the same bullets. This doesn't just mean that they have the same nominal diameter. It means that they are 150 grain bullets optimized for the expected velocities; the AP, tracer, etc. are the same in both rounds. Bullets pulled from one work fine in the other.
A shotgun is fine for a city. But when we're talking about a trunk gun requiring time to get into action, we're talking about rural locations. We're hardly the SWAT team with all sorts of back up. We're likely to be alone. The cops like to act tough; we need to be tough.
The survivalist should practice with a handgun until he or she can handle hundred yard targets or better. I'm not that great a shooter; but I practice and know my guns. I know where to hold for a two hundred yard shot with a .357 magnum. Anyone who's willing to work at it can do the same. The rifle is for long range where the survivalist may be shooting from one hill to another. It takes even more practice.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
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Originally Posted by ovcatto
Well there's no doubt that a SKS is cheap, but seeing how this is the survivalist forum, I can't think of anything more versatile than a .12 gauge pump that will take 3" shells, and slugs. Then you'd be set for self-defense or getting vitals without having to worry about the size of the food you are after. Plus you can get a used 870 or alternative pretty cheap.
Essentially my thoughts exactly. There are some knockabout shotguns available in the $200-$400 range.
I like the concept of the Remington 887 quite a bit and may find purchase irresistable over time.
If you just need something cheap that will work when you pick it up, look at the Howa Escort.
Which sort of makes me wonder what your definition of a trunk gun is.
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It's a long range battle rifle. That is, it's useful for distances up to 1000 yards.
Unless you are using match grade ammo out of a match grade M1 I'd cut that effective range by at least 40%. If you plan on striking anything in the 100 yard range, you are going to need some pretty nice optics, of course that raises the question, who the hell is going to leave a match grade weapon with optics bouncing around in the trunk.
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At that distance, any hit that I made would be pure chance; but I could make my opponents very uncomfortable.
Opponent? An opponent is going to be worrying about someone trying to do fire suppression with a semi-auto shooting at them from beyond 600 yards. Pissed yeah, uncomfortable, highly unlikely. If the are an Opponent they will be maneuver to make you regret giving up your position at a range where it wasn't worth it in the first place.
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The .223 is not an effective stopper beyond a hundred yards (Marshall and Sanow);
Marshall and Sanow... well anyway, I can assure you that a human can be brought down at ranges far exceeding 100 yards with the 5.62mm.
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tracer, etc.
What is with you and tracer rounds?
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A shotgun is fine for a city.
There are lot of hunters from Alaska to Florida who would strenuously disagree with you.
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But when we're talking about a trunk gun requiring time to get into action, we're talking about rural locations. We're hardly the SWAT team with all sorts of back up. We're likely to be alone. The cops like to act tough; we need to be tough.
I'm starting to get a feeling that there I'm going to need to get some hip waders if this conversation goes on much longer.
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The survivalist should practice with a handgun until he or she can handle hundred yard targets or better. I'm not that great a shooter; but I practice and know my guns. I know where to hold for a two hundred yard shot with a .357 magnum. Anyone who's willing to work at it can do the same. The rifle is for long range where the survivalist may be shooting from one hill to another. It takes even more practice.
Dude, if that's your criteria your M1 is a huge waste of cash, because it ain't going to cut it from hill to hill be the target men or white tails. When you start thinking .300 Win mag, 7mm in a bolt action rifle.
PS all rural areas are the great plains... just saying.
Location: When you take flak it means you are on target
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifelongMOgal
Never understood the want of a pistol grip on a shottie. They get in the way, catch on clothing, etc... . Personally, I would not recommend the folder either. YMMV.
I have a pistol grip on my Mossberg 500 shotgun, with an 18 1/4" barrell. That gun isn't for duck hunting, it's for blowing people off their feet at close range and for the intimidation factor. There is nothing quite like the sound of a round being racked into a pump action shotgun to get people's attention.
But I will say that firing a few rounds of 3" magnum buckshot out of that with the pistol grip and your hand hurts. And you'd better take a minute and put some ear plugs in before you blow away a bad guy or you will be deaf for life.
Ovcatto, I disagree he can't hit targets well past 100 yards with plain iron sites. If he can see well, which I have no idea he should be able to use iron site to 300 yards pretty easy, with a M1.
All he has to do is set up the sights to be point blank at 150 yards, and he will be on still at 300, and if there is little winds, and if the bull is apx a 6 inch bull. And with that he would likely have hits inside the 6 inched leaving 3 or so to spare.
And that's with factory ammo of a good quality, but not Match ammo.
Now if he is a real good shot, a 'natural', or well trained and practiced he can probably do better than that.
With a scope and my old man eyes i can do better than that.
A part where I disagree is that not everywhere is the Plains. For me in the wild thicket of New Hampshire no M1 would be much good as a trunk gun. Deer gun Hell Yeah, trunk gun not so great.
In NH you want brush guns, short light and fast to handle for shots starting around 25 FEET, since in the woods it's hard to see 50 FEET.
This depending could be a rifle like a winchester 30-30 carbine, or any 12 ga shot gun, not super long. It could be a lot of other guns too, but these would all tend to be short and light. Probably they should be in .30 cal aka 7.62 so the bullet can cut brush if it is a single projectile.
A trunk gun to me means not a indoor SD gun at all. It would not be used inside a home.
Then I sort of disagree with any hand gun at 100 yards if it is a SD gun.. The Colt .45 ACP round will be hard pressed to take any target at any 100 yards on a good day with a bet. That rond in my hands is good to apx 75 yards, before it drops to the ground.
Sure you can hold over some, but getting that fat blob of a slug to fly more than 75 yards and hit a target with any sort of reliablity is tuff.
But HIW didn't mention the .45 acp round, and did mention the .357 mag, which will fly that 100 yards and some more, as will the .44 mag. I am not sure now about me, and I no longer own a .44, but when I did I could hit targets at 100 yards with ease with it, and the slug still had a lot of authority.
I have a pistol grip on my Mossberg 500 shotgun, with an 18 1/4" barrell. That gun isn't for duck hunting, it's for blowing people off their feet at close range and for the intimidation factor. There is nothing quite like the sound of a round being racked into a pump action shotgun to get people's attention.
But I will say that firing a few rounds of 3" magnum buckshot out of that with the pistol grip and your hand hurts. And you'd better take a minute and put some ear plugs in before you blow away a bad guy or you will be deaf for life.
LOL
Huh? What'd you say?
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I think you have bigger problems than trying to get to your trunk and play counter sniper unless you are involved in sort of take the high ground offensive survivalist mode (which seems pretty silly to me). 
An opponent is going to be worrying about someone trying to do fire suppression with a semi-auto shooting at them from beyond 600 yards. Pissed yeah, uncomfortable, highly unlikely. If the are an Opponent they will be maneuver to make you regret giving up your position at a range where it wasn't worth it in the first place.
