Going Off Grid in East Tennessee; The Story and Chat Thread (humidity, Japanese) - (TN) - Page 209 - City-Data Forum

Mike.ASC · 07-25-2010, 06:13 PM

Greetings Mike & Lisa . I just registered on this website after looking at all your pictures and reading bits & pieces of your story (it's a bad habit of mine to look at all the pictures first then go back and read the story). anyway I thought i would say I think you two have done a faboulous job , I love it . I seem to remember somewhere in your story you mentioned that you either had or still have some property for sale somewhere in that area ....is it still available ? I am currently in the early stages of planning to relocate (currently live in Waldorf Md) and East Tennessee is one of my options , in fact I have some in-laws in the Newport/Pigeon forge area . I don't want to be too nosey but if you don't mind me asking - what area is your new home in ? Do you know any good real estate agents or anyone else that has any property for sale in the North Eastern Tenn area ? I hope I'm not infringing too much . Thank you , Mike

ylisa7 · 07-28-2010, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike.ASC

Greetings Mike & Lisa . I just registered on this website after looking at all your pictures and reading bits & pieces of your story (it's a bad habit of mine to look at all the pictures first then go back and read the story). anyway I thought i would say I think you two have done a faboulous job , I love it . I seem to remember somewhere in your story you mentioned that you either had or still have some property for sale somewhere in that area ....is it still available ? I am currently in the early stages of planning to relocate (currently live in Waldorf Md) and East Tennessee is one of my options , in fact I have some in-laws in the Newport/Pigeon forge area . I don't want to be too nosey but if you don't mind me asking - what area is your new home in ? Do you know any good real estate agents or anyone else that has any property for sale in the North Eastern Tenn area ? I hope I'm not infringing too much . Thank you , Mike

Hi Mike,

Thank you for writing in. We sold both of our properties in the Spring. I need more details to help you out. Price, size, etc? I know of a few larger pieces that are available. DM me for more info.

MarshVegasMike · 07-29-2010, 08:18 AM

Lisa,
Just got caught up with your story. I have to admit, that takes a lot of b....nerve. I wish you both well.
You have my admiration. (Not that you need or are looking for it.)

Mike

sabbytabby · 08-21-2010, 10:25 AM

Lisa & Mike,
It took me two days from start to finish to read your story. Like a good book, it was hard to put down. Somehow, I feel like a part of it all.

Thanks so much for 'letting us in' on some very special times in your lives.

TN Tin Man · 08-22-2010, 06:51 PM

Depending on the size and quantity of cat fish in your pond the rest of the fish may be gone is a short time...
And for a healthy pond.. http://www.pondaeration.com/

ylisa7 · 08-23-2010, 05:20 AM

MarshVegasMike- Thank you for reading our story.

sabbytabby- Thanks for writing in. I'm glad you enjoyed or story.

Tinman- Thank you for the link....so far so good o the pond. We even have baby fish and lots of tadpoles. Hopefully they all do well through the winter.

Getting ready for an update. See you all soon

Jim37680 · 08-23-2010, 06:08 PM

Mike and Lisa, the 85th Old Time Fiddler's Convention is coming up 27 and 28 August down in Laurel Bloomery (6PM till whenever). It's not advertised much except by word of mouth but it can be enjoyable watching and listening. The Geezers came both nights last year but they won't be in town for it this time per Mr. Geezer.

Kensue49 · 08-28-2010, 08:03 PM

Younglisa7,
It took me a week between work and family to read from page one to page 209.
I have laughed, studied and cheered you and Mikes progress.
I have been interested in wind generator, solar power and earth berm-ed homes since 1975.
You are a true partner to Mike and he to you and it comes through your post.
You are clear, upbeat, happy and CONTENT with your situation.
I love your home, property and both of your attitudes.
You make me tired sometimes at how hard ya'll work but you appear to love it.
I can only say thank you for the honor of allowing me and other to participate in you life, love and adventure.
When I saw your wood heater area I cringed because as so many times you have said you and Mike like to learn as you go. I know it is very hot out right now but you are looking for a wood heater and I am worried you may learn the very hard way about heater clearances.
PLEASE don't buy a wood heater you have not information about- installation manual, model number and serial number. Look up a used heater types online for reviews and manuals.
FOLLOW the minimum clearances to the letter. If is states 24" from the rear of the heater and 36" from the front(Door) follow it.
The chimney should comply with UL listings and the Solid Fuel applaince installed in accordance with NFPA 211 standard.
I like either double wall insulated stainless steel or triple wall insulated chimney through the roof.
Try to find a wood heater that is listed for a home a little smaller than your home. If you do not then it will overheat your house and you may have to open a door to be comfortable.
That may sound OK but it will waste heat and wood.
I am a 33 year firefighter and a 12 year chimney sweep so you may take this advise or not as you chose. I am not talking building codes but efficiency and safety.
I have a wood fireplace and propane heat I use now but for 5 years in my other stick built house I used a new small boxwood cast iron heater that heated 1200 square feet with 1 to 2 cords of wood a year. The heater cost $ 85.00 at Lowe's in 1980.
CLEARANCES- Read the installation manual. If you are shopping for a heater make a mock-up out of cardboard boxes and place it on you hearth. If the manual states 18", 24" or 36", cut those lengths from wood dowels or sticks and measure in any direction that the heater (at that clearance) could encounter.
There are ways to reduce those clearances but they require extra thought and planning. REDUCE not eliminate.
Man have I jumped into your and Mikes business. I am sorry but I am concerned.
I like you and Mike from your post and I would be very unhappy if you had a real problem with a wood heater.
God Bless and Thank you both.

ylisa7 · 08-31-2010, 06:02 AM

Kensue49- Thank you so much for writing in. Your nose must have been itching

. Mike and I just bought a small stove yesterday and we are reading the directions very carefully. Thank you for your help and concerns. We don't have all the parts yet but when we install it we will do it according to the manual.

Kensue49 · 08-31-2010, 06:47 PM

Well good for you and Mike.
I would like to suggest a conservative approach.
Wool flame rated rugs at the door opening. External air supply. Cut next years wood this year.
Buy a round wire brush(single wall stove pipe) and flat wire brush(double or triple walled pipe) with rods to clean your chimney. Don't use a shop vac for ashes or creosote. The fine material will just go right through the filter. The vac must filter down to 3 micron.
Use only stainless steel screws if screws are required. At least 3, 4 it better per connector in the black single wall stove pipe.
Vermont Casting did make a very good high temp black paint. Build a very hot fire with your home doors open to allow the odor of the cooking paint to dissipate.
As long as you have no water blowing into the heater when not in use, leave 1 to 2 inches of fine ashes to absorb condensation (sweat) in the spring after you finish your heating season and to act as a deodorizer.
As far as metal chimney as compared to masonry. Metal is better for a small wood heater.
My dream wood heater is a soapstone masonry fireplace or tile Russian fireplace.
Good Luck
Kenneth