City: Portland, OR

Category: Restaurants

Telephone: (503) 239-8830

Address: 215 Southeast 9th Ave.

Description: For a city on the Pacific Rim, and considering the number of Japanese language and cultural programs we have, Portland has surprisingly few authentic Japanese restaurants. Fortunately, Biwa has closed this gap. This restaurant is in the “small plates” style, emphasizing variety in taste and high-quality ingredients. Standout dishes include the vegetable salad, which features cabbage rolls, carrots, and daikon radish in a silky sesame dressing; a savory fried chicken; pork belly; onigiri, little stuffed rice and nori sandwiches; and offerings of two different noodle styles.—in particular, the pork ramen is stellar. Biwa is right next door to Simpatica, and chef Gabe Rosen is a close ally of theirs—which is reflected in all the meat dishes, but especially in the gorgeous beef tartare, marinated in sesame oil and garlic. Its dining room offers both booths and counter seats next to the open kitchen. Biwa also has a fine cocktail list, as well as an excellent selection of sake. Biwa is open Mon through Sat.