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Old 06-20-2010, 09:44 AM
 
2 posts, read 10,514 times
Reputation: 11

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Quote:
Originally Posted by brien51 View Post
It absolutely happens. When you get new tires, or even if you stay with the ones your already have, spray silicone on them, both sides and it will help prevent dry rot on tires.
DO NOT USE SILICONE OR ANY ARMOR ALL TYPE PRODUCTS OUTSIDE OR IN.
They exaggerate dry rot. At the shop we only use Renew Protect which simply puts back what is missing due to exposure .
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Old 06-20-2010, 01:53 PM
 
Location: Yucaipa, California
9,894 posts, read 22,027,890 times
Reputation: 6853
I have driven cars with dry rotted tires for yrs. When i see the steel in the tire exposed is when i replace the tire. I currently have a 10 yr old tire on my car (in the rear) & its abit dry rotted but holding 35 lbs of air just fine. My front right tire is wearing on the outside even though i paid 50.00 for a computerized front end alignment approx 1500 miles ago. It does take awhile for tire tread to wear down to the steel threads. My car battery is old but works good.
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Old 06-20-2010, 02:33 PM
 
Location: Columbia, California
6,664 posts, read 30,617,939 times
Reputation: 5184
Quote:
Originally Posted by banger View Post
,,,, Nitrogen filled tires are fine....,,,,
I run a custom blend of 78% Nitrogen in all my tires.
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Old 06-20-2010, 09:51 PM
 
48,502 posts, read 96,867,563 times
Reputation: 18304
Ht dry climates are really hard on tire as far as dry rot goes or for any rubber product really.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:48 PM
 
19,023 posts, read 25,969,090 times
Reputation: 7365
You all need to understand there is a date code on all car and truck tires.

This will be 4 numbers in a oval depression. The first 2 numbers will be a year code and the last 2 number the week of the year.

0125 say is 2010 week 25 of the year.

If you find a oval with 3 numbers it is older than anything you would want to buy! 936 would be 1999 week 36, way too old to be bought.

Dry rot is also called sun cracking. You can see it on the side walls. When you can see that it is a matter of time before air will pass right thru the sidewalls.
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:04 PM
 
564 posts, read 1,494,129 times
Reputation: 391
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobgot View Post
for the person who replaces their battery and tires every two years without question.....you have a lot of money to throw away, don't you? my tires are three years old and doing just fine
No kidding! My one car has had the same battery for 6.5 years. I keep waiting for it to just die but it keeps on going. For me, the prospect of keeping some jumper cables in my car and asking someone for a jump on the day it finally fails, is well worth not blowing ~$200 in unnecessary batteries over the last few years.
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:08 PM
 
Location: Eastern NC
20,868 posts, read 23,558,348 times
Reputation: 18814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatday View Post
"Short time" period? 3 years or 6 years is not "short" - especially in certain areas of the country.

Out here is the West, where the summers are hot and dry, regardless of how little (or much) you drive, many will recommend having your tires inspected every 2 years for rot / cracking. Personally, I replace my tires every two years regardless - it isn't worth the headache to me to have a tire failure -

I do the same with the batteries on the cars too - every two years - a new one
You must enjoy throwing money away. I just replaced the battery in my 4Runner, it lasted 10 years. The tires on my Tacoma are now 6 years old and will get replaced next year. I can see replacing them if they are dry rotted but after just 2 years? And most batteries will last at least 5 years thats why you see them with 7 year prorated warrenties.
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Old 07-24-2011, 03:08 PM
 
Location: North of Canada, but not the Arctic
21,136 posts, read 19,722,567 times
Reputation: 25661
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottfs View Post
No kidding! My one car has had the same battery for 6.5 years. I keep waiting for it to just die but it keeps on going. For me, the prospect of keeping some jumper cables in my car and asking someone for a jump on the day it finally fails, is well worth not blowing ~$200 in unnecessary batteries over the last few years.
I tried that...

...until my alternator blew because it was overworkng due to an old battery.

Now I replace my battery every 3 years. I buy the cheapest American-made one I can find (approx. $50). Cheap insurance.

Oh, did I mention my alternator quit while I was driving and left me stranded?
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:21 PM
 
19,023 posts, read 25,969,090 times
Reputation: 7365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retroit View Post
I tried that...

...until my alternator blew because it was overworkng due to an old battery.

Now I replace my battery every 3 years. I buy the cheapest American-made one I can find (approx. $50). Cheap insurance.

Oh, did I mention my alternator quit while I was driving and left me stranded?
A 20 dollar voltmeter and a few simple tests are the best insurance. I dont know how old the battery is in my car, but it has blue overspray on it from in 2002 when I painted the car.

That battery still passes the tests.
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:26 PM
 
Location: North of Canada, but not the Arctic
21,136 posts, read 19,722,567 times
Reputation: 25661
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac_Muz View Post
A 20 dollar voltmeter and a few simple tests are the best insurance. I dont know how old the battery is in my car, but it has blue overspray on it from in 2002 when I painted the car.

That battery still passes the tests.
Pardon my ignorance, but what do you do with the voltmeter?...check the battery with the engine off and see if it has 12 volts?

...and that tells you.....?
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