I was in the Mid East for a business trip, the main reason for the trip was to visit with a major client in Saudi Arabia. I was very nervouse about going into the Kindom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) after hearing stories of Daniel Pearl, and just political tensions in general. I travelled with a co-worker, and we had difficulty getting into the country. Our business class flight connection in Bahrain ended up being a Ford Excursion accross the desert, and they dropped us an hour from our destination. Our driver (in an unmarked car) got lost in the warehouse district and scared the crap out of me, thinking I was living my last night on earth. Turned out he was just lost, and got us to our destination, which was Jubail Industrial City, KSA.
My client turned out to be a really nice guy. I ate lunch with him and his life-long friend, and our meeting lasted all day long, over 8 hours, wearing a suit and tie in 107f weather. It was a long day, and I was ready to rest at night, but when they dropped me back at the hotel, they said to be ready to be picked up in an hour, and to dress comfy. Jeans were acceptable (quite the relief as everythign to this point had been very formal)
They picked us up, we in our jeans and T-shirt, they in their traditional cloths. We drove down the highway, and then all of the sudden, his buddy turned the car between two sand-dunes and into the desert. I must have had a look of horror on my face because one of them said "In Saudi Arabia, we have no insurance", and the other chimed in without pause and said "if you die, you die". There was a very pronounced silence, and then they laughed. (just kidding). They were nice guys, and I knew it, so I laughed along.
We finally arrived at their "campsite", and by this time I was prepared as to what to expect. They had arranged for me to see their pet camels:
We sat together as the sun set on the desert and enjoyed figs from the family trees, pastries from their wives, (who of course were not present) and delicious mint tea.
It was really a beautiful night, and we just took our time and enjoyed these treats, as their friends and family came by to meet us, and to share some "hobbly bobbly" with us (hookah pipe, "sheesha")
As time went on, I was beginning to wonder if the pastries and fruits "were" dinner. I was still hungry but really appreciated the efforts they went to in order to make me feel welcome, so I did not dare ask for more.
After a while, their servant motioned that something was ready, so they directed us inside the "hut" (rough campsite, what with the 50" plasma TV and satalite inside
, seriously). We all sat on the floore around a plastic tablecloth, I was lucky to sit in front of a pepsi and a bottled water, my buddy sat in front of a non-alcholholic, apple-flavored budweiser. Yikes!
We each had a chop salad and an empty plate in front of us. Then the servant came in with a tray that must have been 36" in diameter, piled high with yellow rice and at least five chickens roasted outside in a special oven. They took time to show me how they ate with their hands (traditional) but made sure to acknowledge I was welcome to eat with a provided plastic fork and knife.
hey, "when in Rome..."
So, each person, using ONLY their right hand, takes a little bit of salad, tosses it with some rice, and some provided hot chili sauce, and then digs into a whole chicken, pulls out some meat, balls it all up, and eats it. Sounds easy enough, but the first thing I learned was that it is very difficult to get rice and salad to "ball up" (although they had no problems with it) and secondly, that it hurts like hell to dig your fingers into a 450f chicken OUCH!
I told the story to be somewhat entertaining, but I have to say it was one of the most special nights of my life. These guys were INCREDIBLE hosts, and although they had a good sense of humor (which I appreciate), they really went out of their way to make sure I was comfy. The stars in the desert, the camels, the home-grown appetizers, and the discussion about politics, religion and culture, all with full mutual respect, made for a night I will never forget.
I wish I could tell the story better in printed words, but it was really a special night.