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Personally I don't recommend mulching unless it gets very dry. The problem is that mulch can create more disease problems and if you do you need to dethatch every few years. better to bag and have a compost maker. Then you can use the compost in your flower beds and gardens.
Personally I don't recommend mulching unless it gets very dry. The problem is that mulch can create more disease problems and if you do you need to dethatch every few years. better to bag and have a compost maker. Then you can use the compost in your flower beds and gardens.
I think my problem is having so many live oak trees (about 6 big trees around a 20 x 60 ft lawn) dropping leaves year-round in a small area of grass - leaf mulch takes longer to break down than fress grass, and if the leaf mulch builds up too much I think the grass will suffer.
But I can keep the leaf & grass mulch for composting, and maybe feed the lawn?
I would recommend a Toro Super Recycler. Like several other brands, get one from a dealer rather than a big box store. The dealers have the better end of the line, your mower will be set up properly, someone that knows the mower will help you get the most out of it and you will get better service after the sale.
The Toro has a patented mulching system on it that is much more than a crazy looking blade. (In fact, the blade is straight, the kickers under the deck keep the clippings under there until they are dust.) Toro also has the best drive system, bar none. (Rear wheel is the only way to go.) The super recycler also comes with a bag so you can choose to mulch or bag as conditions dictate.
That new grass will look pretty wispy. The most important thing you can do is keep your blade sharp. I'd cut 1/4 to 1/3 of the blade off at a time and mulch to help build up some thatch. (You need a little, but there is a limit.)
Oak leaves and pine needles are the two worst things to leave on soil where you want grass to grow. They make the soil too acidic. Get them off as soon as possible and add some lime or potash to your next round of fertilizer.
WitchDoctor - excellent point about buying from a local dealer.
I get my equipment from an established and respected dealer. Over time, I think I've paid about $20 more for a trimmer, $20 more for a chain saw, maybe $10 more for a blower, and gotten a better price for a mower. My equipment goes to the front of the line for service (maintenance - nothing's ever broken - knock on wood), plus the dealer throws in extras when he can (free t-shirts, 2-stroke oil, trimmer line, extra filters).
UNless you get a cheapo mower or a commercial grade mower, they are all pretty much the same. All of the companies make good mowers with good engines. Most mowers are offered in mulching or pick up versions. Gimmics and features are a waste of money. Just get a good basic mower with a reasonably sized engine. (8 or 12 HP mowers are ridiculous unless you are cutting heavy long grass or a hay field). The mower spins a blade and cuts the grass. That is what you need it to do. Fancy features or claims just cost you more money. And yes any of the people in lawn mower stores will often lie to you and sell you things you do not need. If you are weak, you might need electric start or self propelled. (Keep in mind self propelled mowers need level ground, dry conditions and low grass to function).
I won a Toro Personal Pace mower which does agreat job of cutting, mulching and bagging...depending on which task you choose.
However, i really don't like the mower because the way in which the 'personal pace' works is that you exert forward walking pressure on the handles, and the mower moves at your 'pace.' I have a weak back, and this operation puts constant pressure on the lower back (from pushing lightly) and after 30 minutes or so it becomes quite painful.
Prior to this mower i owned a Snapper self propelled. The mower did all the things which you require, and left a great looking lawn. It operates on the basis of squeezing a level to move forward, and thus sort of 'pulls' you along. I found this system to be more comfortable, for me.
Either way, you will get a good machine, reasonably reliable, and able to perform the tasks which you have described as being important to you. Buy from a dealer and not a big box. Looks the same, but the big box is built to a cheaper price point...and it shows.
My mower won't pick up the grass, the bag is basically empty. Can anyone help?
On my Husqvarna (which I love) rider, I have to run with the throttle wide open to get enough suction to pick up grass. The peed is set to slow, but the throttle is wide open. it will pick up wet grass too.
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