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The problems with relying on any kind of hollow wall anchor in a "dynamic" situation is that over time the loading and unloading of the weighted portion will result in the device loosening up. Machine screws literally will be "undone", the compressed drywall will "dust out" of the backside and there will be less meat holding the thing together.
All modern building codes specify that any kind of handrail is installed into wood blocking. Wood screws have a steeper pitch than machine screws so the torque needed to get them to "back out" is greater.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangEater82
I was going to say when I worked commercial jobs, we actually mounted some hand rails with just butterfly style anchors and I have actually stood on them to work on emergency lights. And I am like 340 lbs.
Thanks everyone for the input and help on my question.
When it is all said and done, I think I'm going to just go with hanging on the stud.
Maybe the anchors would have done the trick and maybe they wouldn't have.
I really don't want to chance it with these framed jerseys.
When you say 20-30 pound frames, I assume you mean your jerseys are in shadow box picture frames. You don't need anchors or stud contact to hang a picture like that. With healthy drywall you need only use the largest standard two piece picture hanger (100-150) and call it a day. See post 4 above. All the rest is a waste of your time and makes the locating of the frames on the wall and leveling 10 times more difficult. Just use two hangers equidistant from the point where you want the center of the frame to be. use real picture wire on the back not electrical cord.
I've been using this type of hanger and I love them. They are VERY easy to install. I have a heavy mirror hung with one of these, I think rated to 100 lbs that is not secured into the stud and it has held very well for over 6 years.
Hanging 100lbs from straight drywall is a flat out joke. How long do you think a 100lb weight would hold from a hole in gypsum, less any tilt or sag? No offense, but I've been hanging items for years, going > 60 - 70 lbs.
And where are you located - do you experience tremors?
This all depends on how you value that jersey setup.
Go into a stud, if it is close enough on-center for you. Use the solid thread wall anchors, non-splitting style. Hold the point against the wall with the phillips screwdriver inserted, and tap it in to the tread start, then turn it it in -- no pre-holing, these rely on pressure. Forget toggles, they're a gimmick. If in doubt center it on (2) 50 lb ones.
Hanging 100lbs from straight drywall is a flat out joke. How long do you think a 100lb weight would hold from a hole in gypsum, less any tilt or sag? No offense, but I've been hanging items for years, going > 60 - 70 lbs.
And where are you located - do you experience tremors?
This all depends on how you value that jersey setup.
Go into a stud, if it is close enough on-center for you. Use the solid thread wall anchors, non-splitting style. Hold the point against the wall with the phillips screwdriver inserted, and tap it in to the tread start, then turn it it in -- no pre-holing, these rely on pressure. Forget toggles, they're a gimmick. If in doubt center it on (2) 50 lb ones.
I didn't say the item was 100 lbs, the anchor is rated for 100 lbs. The mirror is probably 20 lbs and has been holding just fine for over 6 years now.
I've been using this type of hanger and I love them. They are VERY easy to install. I have a heavy mirror hung with one of these, I think rated to 100 lbs that is not secured into the stud and it has held very well for over 6 years.
If you look closely at this type hanger, the nails/screws are fairly close to each other thus more "concentrating" the load as opposed to spacing the load out with multiple other type hangers.
I say spread the load out with several E-Z Lock and Twist type hangers. Even if one let go (never happened to me), you would notice it in time (item sagging, etc.) to correct.
If it is a large object, you can easily just mount a piece of 1x4 from stud to stud and then mount your anchors to that. The board is hidden.
I have used some of the magic wire type anchors rated for 50 pounds, and then had the pleasure of spending a few hundred dollars on a new picture frame after it hit the floor.
If it is a large object, you can easily just mount a piece of 1x4 from stud to stud and then mount your anchors to that. The board is hidden.
I have used some of the magic wire type anchors rated for 50 pounds, and then had the pleasure of spending a few hundred dollars on a new picture frame after it hit the floor.
+1 for the above post!
I tried a couple of "80 pound" anchors on one side of the bracket for my 60 pound tv. (the other side lined up with a stud and I put lag bolts into the stud). Luckily, they pulled through the drywall before we even finished hanging the tv.
The thing is, the ANCHOR will hold up to "xx" pounds of force without breaking, not the drywall. If you don't want it to hit the floor, sink it into a stud!
Looking to hang up some frames which I'm guessing weigh anywhere from 20-30lbs. For peace of mind, I was thinking about drilling straight into the stud so that I know these things are not coming down. Now if I wanted these frames evenly spaced, I'd need to hang on drywall instead.
Are these heavy duty anchors pretty safe to use? Anyone ever have a problem with not supporting the weight? Pretty much when I need to hang something heavy, I go straight to the studs. If it something light, I'll use a drywall anchor.
Never used an anchor on anything heavy before.
thoughts?
The anchor is only as strong as the drywall. Never more, no matter what kind of anchor it is.
Anything heavy needs to be mounted to studs - however you go about doing that.
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