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Old 03-25-2014, 08:48 AM
 
835 posts, read 2,877,846 times
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Hi, hoping to get some help with a problem related to my programmable room thermostat. The heat has suddenly not been kicking on when the temperature falls below the set target room temperature. I have set another table top thermostat in the room which reflects the same room temperature as the wall thermostat. I have tried changing the batteries with no luck. The target temp is set to 68. Even when the room temp falls to 65 it still will not kick on unless I raise the target temp to 69. Any insight to offer here? Thanks.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:52 PM
 
Location: Sarasota FL
6,864 posts, read 12,078,177 times
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First- the batteries don't run the thermostat. They are for memory back up during a power failure. The thermostat is controlled by the wires from the a/c transformer. If you remove the thermostat from it's mounting, you will see the wire block.
If the thermostat is not kicking on at the temp you have set, the thermostat is defective. Not unless the temp differential is set more than 3 degrees.??? Most can be set at .5, 1.0, 1,5, 2. Do not set at .5 compressor/fan will cycle on/off too much i.e my stat is 7 day, 4 sets. if I set mine at 72 [with 1 degree diff] it will kick on when temp drops to 71.5, shut off at 72.5
If still under warrantee, exchange it for a replacement, otherwise you're stuck with buying a new one.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:43 AM
 
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
44,585 posts, read 81,186,228 times
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Actually, it varies. In my case the battery runs the thermostat. The two wires are only a switch to trigger the furnace. Without the battery the clock/timer will go blank and not operate. A new dual-setback thermostat can be bought for under $50 and is very easy to install, if that one is defective, but check first to make sure the wires are OK and still connected.
That will normally be solid copper and they can break where they are screwed in behind the thermostat. You can test it by touching those red and white wires together. If the furnace still doesn't come on, it may be a furnace issue.
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:26 AM
 
10,926 posts, read 21,997,495 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d4g4m View Post
First- the batteries don't run the thermostat. They are for memory back up during a power failure. The thermostat is controlled by the wires from the a/c transformer. If you remove the thermostat from it's mounting, you will see the wire block.
Incorrect, batteries do indeed run some programmable thermostats.

For the OP, what is the swing value set at? If it is set to 3 degrees then it's kicking on about when it should, set it to 2 and it should kick on at 66 degrees.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:02 PM
 
Location: Sarasota FL
6,864 posts, read 12,078,177 times
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Batteries do not run any thermostats. Most new thermostats don't even have batteries for memory back up. They have a memory chip.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:12 PM
 
10,926 posts, read 21,997,495 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d4g4m View Post
Batteries do not run any thermostats.
Wrong, just as the person before you that said that was wrong.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:43 PM
 
835 posts, read 2,877,846 times
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Thanks for the replies.

First, the display stays on when the batteries are removed. I assume then that they are for backup.

I hit the reset button behind the panel necessitating reprogramming for the week with the same target temperatures of 68 during the day and 65 at night. When I did the reset, the current temp display read in the mid 70s. I waited overnight to give it time to adjust to the current room temp. By morning, it was still way off. In order for the temperature display to match the actual room temperature I had to calibrate it to -5. The directions for the unit state -1 to +1 is normally accurate. I don't know what that means that I had to do that and if it was a good thing to do or not. All day the temperatures matched, and the unit kicked on appropriately to keep it at 68. At one point it actually got quite warm so I set the target temp down 1 degree to 67.
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:34 AM
 
10,926 posts, read 21,997,495 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strongasabear View Post
Thanks for the replies.

First, the display stays on when the batteries are removed. I assume then that they are for backup.

I hit the reset button behind the panel necessitating reprogramming for the week with the same target temperatures of 68 during the day and 65 at night. When I did the reset, the current temp display read in the mid 70s. I waited overnight to give it time to adjust to the current room temp. By morning, it was still way off. In order for the temperature display to match the actual room temperature I had to calibrate it to -5. The directions for the unit state -1 to +1 is normally accurate. I don't know what that means that I had to do that and if it was a good thing to do or not. All day the temperatures matched, and the unit kicked on appropriately to keep it at 68. At one point it actually got quite warm so I set the target temp down 1 degree to 67.
Ok, so yours is powered how d4g4m described, the batteries are likely for backup, mine runs 100% off the batteries, no batteries no heat. As far as a good thing, if it's working properly you shouldn't have a problem, the calibration is there for that purpose.
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:37 PM
 
Location: The Ranch in Olam Haba
23,707 posts, read 30,749,085 times
Reputation: 9985
Is the other thermostat within a few inches of the wall thermostat? If not, then you will get a variance of a few degrees from one side of the room to the other.
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:53 PM
 
Location: Sarasota FL
6,864 posts, read 12,078,177 times
Reputation: 6744
If a thermostat is being run only by battery, meaning no wires to the air handler transformer and compressor, does that mean the air handler and/or the compressor also have transmitters/receivers to send/receive a signal from the thermostat to operate the system? Is the system operating like a garage door opener?
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