Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Problem is that the 1st floor walls are not insulated and it is solid (no gaps). They'll have to break down the wall or add insulation from the outside and wall it.
They can drill a hole in between each stud and stick the hose through to add insulation. Then you patch the hole when they're done. It's easy. We're having it done to two walls in our bedroom and they're just going to do it for free since we're having some other more major work done at the same time.
1. Unlike batt insulation, you can't see where the stuff ends up when blown into walls, or how well it adheres to the underside of a roof deck for example. As a result you can easily have gaps, because if the spray isn't completely even throughout the framing opening, any 'heavier' spots will tend to fold over on itself and cure into that position -- leaving a hole. Gaps can also occur in spots where the foam doesn't adhere to the framing sides. Or it may initially stick in place but as it cures and hardens it contracts (especially in colder weather) and separates from the framing, leaving gaps.
2. It is basically nasty toxic stuff, being not only a petroleum product (I'm assuming we're talking about blown foam, not blown cellulose) but loaded with chemicals. If you've ever seen foam being installed you probably noticed that the sprayed material is fairly hot. Unlike batts of fiberglas -- which is nasty in its own way, I admit -- attention has to be paid to the foam "mix" itself, the temperature of the mix versus the ambient temperature where it's being applied, etc etc. Having any of those things messed up can easily result in a less than optimal installation.
3. A common problem with foam is that there's either too little or too much of it. "Too much" is a common issue with the stuff you buy in cans (Great Stuff, etc) that expands all over the place. If sprayed around window framing the pressure exerted by the expanded, cured foam can warp the frame. The so-called "low expansion" versions aren't, really.
A common misconception about spray foam is that it doesn't "settle" or compress like fiberglas batts can do. And it's true that once fully cured, it won't move (I recently had the messy PITA job of having to cut and scrape away about 50 feet of gloppy hardened Great Stuff that the former owners had applied all along some interior garage walls.) With spray foam the settling problem occurs during installation. The only way to check for voids behind drywall is to scan the area with an infrarad thermal imager after the foam has cured. And if that shows multiple voids, what then? Drill a swiss-cheese pattern of holes into the drywall to spot-fill all the gaps? Not likely. Most people won't bother.
Also, there are two kinds of spray foam: open-cell and closed-cell. The characteristics of the specific area being insulated should determine what kind of foam is used. If the 'wrong' type is used, it can be a waste of money at best, or cause problems at worst (for example using open-cell foam without an additional vapor barrier where needed.)
At some point, just like aluminum wire and lead paint, folks gonna realize spray foam was a bad idea.
If you like an air tight house and to drastically reduce your utility costs, then spray foam is bad. New construction and complete gut jobs, spray foam makes sense. Not sure about adding it in a already built home.
Homes destroyed by moisture entrapment.
If your home develops a leak, which nearly every home will, it may not surface or show itself.
The moisture becomes trapped between the surface area and the foam. Rotting the crap out of everything and you wont always know until it's catastrophic. That's one of the big ones.
Also as stated, it can cause warping to surrounding areas. Makes it difficult to do repairs and upgrades like moving or adding plumbing or an electrical circuit and such.
From a new construction perspective, spray foam is terrific. Environmental issues are minimal with the latest acceptable products. As the context of this thread is about retro-fits, I stand corrected.
I've been tracking my oil use for 10 yrs now. And after reading some of these posts, its not good.
1964, 2,800 sqft ranch, 4 zones, (unfinished basement add 2k sqft, no heat). poorly insulated, some new, some old. work in progress.
Ideal 7 boiler; think it was a coal furnace back in the day. converted by adding a oil fired burner, which I replaced 10yrs.
I average 1,100 gals/yr. Heating only. water is electric with solar.
I think my usage should be in the 700s gals/yr. no gas option on street, otherwise i would have converted. have considered LNG or Propane. but that would require install of 1000g tank.
I know i need to upgrade and will do so this summer. looking for feedback
Viessmann Vitrorond 100 boiler, with either a Riello or a Beckett NX burner. Installers always have their "favorite" between those two and will argue about which is better until the cows come home. Riello fans will swear that Beckett is cr@p, and vice versa, but the bottom line is that if you have it cleaned and tuned every year, either of those should be fine.
Viessmann also makes a solar hot water tank if you need to upgrade yours. It's not their all-stainless tank though.
Upgrading your insulation (and windows, if they are old) is essential but it sounds like you already know that.
One small but useful tip: If you have recessed ("can") lights in any of the ceilings, swap them out for the one-piece LED retrofit units such as Cree makes. A lot of room heat escapes up into the attic via those standard/old recessed cans. It's an easy DIY swap, just unscrew the old bulb and pop in the new unit. Takes just minutes.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
In need of an upgraded heating system
