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Old 12-05-2007, 07:16 PM
 
2,688 posts, read 6,684,708 times
Reputation: 1291

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I agree, do what you need to to get out of the contract. Things will only get worse, not better. Take a camera out as soon as the workers leave and thoroughly document all the flaws. Hire your own certified home inspector and have him make a report on all the flaws. Get a lawyer if you need to. Why spend such a huge amount of money on poor quality that will cause you nothing but headaches and $$$ down the line?
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Old 12-05-2007, 07:40 PM
 
76 posts, read 345,519 times
Reputation: 26
Cracks in foundation? I say get out...now. Agree, get a lawyer.
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Old 01-07-2008, 04:32 AM
 
1 posts, read 2,444 times
Reputation: 14
Default Foundation cracks/Basement Waterproofing

--New homes

Cracks in basement walls, several possibilities,here are a few......

1) poor backfilling practices. using heavy equipment next to/near
a basement wall causes an underground,lateral-horizontal spring-like
force/pressure which can cause crack(s), or a wall to bow inward.

2) the 'type' of backfill. pushing soil/clay against a basement wall
can cause crack(s), wall to bow in.

3) settling of the backfilled-soil, cracks often occur within 12-18 months.
as the soil SETTLES tightly against outside of basement wall it can
cause crack(s), wall to bow in.

4) not having the bsmt floor in place or, using little or no reinforcing-
rod in walls.

5) lousy/cheap/weak soil on-site or pouring footings on wet soil.
also, cutting corners including a thinner or shallower footing

6) regardless of plans, some will cut corners in other things like,
plans may call for basement wall thickness to be 12" and builder
pours `em 8", same with basement floors. Some parts of floor
may be 2-3" thick instead of 4+.


Most basement walls are NOT 'Waterproofed' on exterior, and are not
backfilled w/most-all gravel, this is a big mistake.

Most are ONLY 'damproofed'. While damproofing may meet the local
code, the code is the minimal, it is not whats best for homeowners.
Damproofing basement walls is basically garbage, its like painting the
outside of walls w/a thin asphalt, will not last. And, when they backfill
w/most-all of same soil that was excavated, this soil settles and
deteriorates/pulls down the thin tar/asphalt.

YOU want/need any cracks in basement walls 'waterproofed' from the
OUTSIDE, NOT inside epoxy/urethane injections.About 50% of ALL
injected cracks will....RE-LEAK, yes they will!

Injections are not what 'some' try and explain `em to be. Injections
will NOT, as some say, hold a wall together. Thats nonsense,
incompetence. Injections do not, will not relieve/lessen exapnding `n
contracting soil-pressure on outside of walls, thus this force is there
to cause wall to move/crack to re-open....leak again. Don`t buy the bs
of carbon fiber straps either,more nonsense.

If builder doesn`t fix/repair cracks correctly then take action.
A builder may think he/she knows whats best for bsmt walls/waterproofing
but MOST do NOT. They are not experts in this trade.

Some LINKS from others who understand more than most builders,
i don`t agree w/every word but these folks do TRY and explain
most facts, unlike sooo many other self-proclaimed-experts online.

Please read, try and understand the......... 6th paragraph,
one builder... 'gets it'
[url=http://www.dwightyoderbuilders.com/concrete.cfm]Dwight Yoder Builders[/url]


Scroll down a little to......... --Basement Walls
See... 'CAUSE' and 'RESOLUTION'
"Most SUCCESSFUL REPAIR METHOD"
[url=http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publications/marineclay.htm#2]Overcoming Problems with Marine Clays*- Fairfax County, Virginia[/url]


this building department for most part... 'gets it'
City of Shaker Heights - Building (http://www.shakeronline.com/dept/building/FAQ.asp#whatiftheproblemisnotrelatedtosurfacegradi ngandwaterisleakingthroughthefoundation - broken link)


Not so sure about the 'Sub-Title' for this link, but its very well written,
very informed stuff, read ALL, especially.... COMPACTION and
CAREFUL on the Construction Site!!!

[url=http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Why_Foundations_Fail-Foundation-A2095.html]Why Foundations Fail[/url]


Water/moisture intrusion can lead to....mold. Ya have to ELIMINATE
the water/moisture to get rid of mold. Inside-drain-tile systems do NOT
solve water/moisture intrusion due to cracks,loose parging and other-
outside openings/entryways. Nor do inside systems relieve/lessen
soil pressure or roots which can also cause cracks,leaks.

Radon, termites and other insects enter through cracks/other outside
openings. Yes, up through floor cracks,sump pits too.

-Termites
Termite Tips Number 8 (http://www.utoronto.ca/forest/termite/tips8.htm - broken link)

-Radon
[url=http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/physic.html#Character]A Physician's Guide | Publications | Radon | Indoor Air | Air | US EPA[/url]

"Radon gas can enter a home from the SOIL THROUGH cracks in floors
and walls,floor drains, sump pumps,construction joints and........
TINY cracks OR pores in HOLLOW-Block Walls"
-See, How Radon Enters Your House

-Mold
[url=http://abcnews.go.com/WNT/story?id=131638&page=1]ABC News: Is Hidden Mold at Home Making You Sick?[/url]

"Find the moisture, eliminate the moisture, clean up the mold"
"Locate and fix leaks immediately"
"Cleaning up the mold is NOT enough. You must find the water SOURCE and
ELIMINATE it"
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Old 03-16-2008, 05:44 PM
 
847 posts, read 3,354,168 times
Reputation: 247
Hey, is the OP still around? What happened? Did you get out of the contract? You didn't close on this piece of junk did you?

This is why I would never, ever buy a new house. I trust new home builders about as far as I can throw them.
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Old 03-17-2008, 06:49 AM
 
3,650 posts, read 9,504,944 times
Reputation: 3812
BasementwaterproofR - thank you for the great links - I might need them in the future.

I am lucky - my 1970's home is all brick and very well built - the basement is as dry as a bone with no cracks.
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:51 AM
 
254 posts, read 790,323 times
Reputation: 103
I'm thinking of buying one of those Centex homes in Stephens City, once I sell my house in TX (been in the market since Oct.2007). I was just thinking it would be better to sell it after the maybe 5-6 yrs we're supposed to stay in NOVA. Also, I don't want to deal w/renovations or anything of that sort. Any input on the Centex homes in Stephens City? I can only afford a less than $250K house, hoping maybe $230. How long does it usually take to build it? Like 4-5 mos as well? What should I watch out for? I won't be working for awhile (hubby is the one who'll be working) and so we can watch the process of building the house. Is it cheaper to have it upgraded to hardwood floors or is it cheaper to just let them put all standards and maybe we can do it ourselves someday?
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Old 03-18-2008, 08:44 AM
 
847 posts, read 3,354,168 times
Reputation: 247
Buying a new house is like buying a new car -- the value goes down as soon as you put your key in the door. If you're buying new for resale purposes, be the second buyer, not the first.
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:54 AM
 
112 posts, read 852,258 times
Reputation: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanyali View Post
Buying a new house is like buying a new car -- the value goes down as soon as you put your key in the door. If you're buying new for resale purposes, be the second buyer, not the first.
That's a broad statement that doesn't hold true in all areas and definitely wasn't true a few years back. Many factors are involved in real estate appreciation. For example, a friend recently purchased a condo pre-construction and it took well over a year to build. By the time it was completed, he decided to sell it and it appreciated $100K. And this was in the Rockville, MD area. Maybe he was lucky? Could be but it was only a few months ago.
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Old 03-18-2008, 11:49 AM
 
847 posts, read 3,354,168 times
Reputation: 247
You can't take price-appreciation during the housing bubble as anything close to the regular state of things.
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