Radon test came back need advice

[parentologist]

My husband put in a home made system with a fan and PVC piping following instructions that he found on the internet. It sucks the air out from underneath the house, before it enters the basement, and vents it above the house. It was very inexpensive (maybe under $400), and it works very well. The basement is about 800 sq ft, I guess. He has a constant radar monitor running in the basement, and it's always well below the limit now. The original test when we bought the house was really high, like in the high teens, if I recall correctly.

[SouthernBelleInUtah]

I had a system put in when I retrofitted my basement - it was at 5. Since I was putting in 2 bedrooms ad a game rom, I wanted it done. It was about $2000 but that was in 2007. It vents out through the attic, The floor was dirt to start with so not a lot of digging involved. It's covered with cement now,

[irman]

Originally Posted by SouthernBelleInUtah

I had a system put in when I retrofitted my basement - it was at 5. Since I was putting in 2 bedrooms ad a game rom, I wanted it done. It was about $2000 but that was in 2007. It vents out through the attic, The floor was dirt to start with so not a lot of digging involved. It's covered with cement now,

It vents out through the attic,

I assume via the attic to the outside.

For a lot of DIY hard to do because to get to the attic you need a way to get to the attic from the basement and that means thru walls ...
You also need a 4-inch diameter tube and not that many walls can accommodate that size ...

I just went outside the basement and the up next to the wall !

[SouthernBelleInUtah]

I had a professional company who only does radon remediation do it.

[Gingko]

Originally Posted by SWFL_Native

Thanks everyone!

I confirmed with the builder and they 100% for sure did not plumb the home with a passive radon system. Apparently in 2015 when the home was built this wasn't a standard procedure where several builders are now pre-plumbing the basement with a passive sytem.

I'll start looking into mitigation services and see if I can get a quote/estimate on the work. It's probably going to be $3k - $5k total to get my reading from 3.3. down to ~1.

It is good the builder answered you, but I would check with the local building code officials just make sure a passive system was not required when your house was built.


Here in Colorado, code required installation of passive systems back in at least the early 2000s (there is an inactive uranium claim a few miles to the northeast of us). Our house had a passive system, and when we got high readings prior to buying the house, we had the seller install a fan to make it an active system (it probably cost them $250 for the electrical work and fan).

[Blackjack6]

It is unfortunate there is so much outdated information about radon. I have done extensive research on the subject and written a CE class for Realtors approved by the Division of Real Estate in the State of Utah. While the EPA recommends action above 4.0 pCi/L, this is based on the Linear No Threshold model which was debunked (proven false scientifically) about 1980. Current studies (since 2010) show there is actually a positive aspect of radon at low dose rates and low dose levels up to approximately 3x background radiation (2.5 to 3.5 pCi/L) which would be in the 7-10 pCi/L range. Utah average in homes (small sample) is 4.4 pCi/L. Up to the 3x level radon can act as a "vaccination" preventing lung cancer even in smokers. Ultimately, it is the peace of mind of the homeowner that is important. At higher levels, radon is a cancer producing agent. Typical incubation times are about 5 to 6 years of exposure at a minimum. If your home is above 8-10 mitigation would be a good idea but try the passive caulking method (below) first. Active systems need to be monitored and tested every 5 to 8 years to ensure the fans are functioning properly.

Keep in mind, the testing requirements advise the room to be tested be closed, doors and windows, and A/C turned off for 12 hours prior to testing. This would have a tendency to concentrate the radon for higher readings. Nationally, the mitigation and testing industry generates $3 Billion dollars of revenue per year.

If you have an unfinished or partially finished basement, the easiest remedy is to use latex caulking (like for the bathtub) at all cracks between walls and floor, on the walls (near windows), and on the floor. This should reduce about 80% of the radon intrusion. Test again to see the effect, and open the door to the room.

As a final thought on the EPA this is from the "EPA Assessment of Risks from Radon" June 2003 page 2 from case control studies:

"Although there is a growing body of data from epidemiological (case-control) studies showing a correlation between lung cancer and radon exposures in homes, these results do not conclusively demonstrate an excess risk in homes with elevated radon and are inadequate as a basis for quantitative risk estimation."

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