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I don't claim to know ANYTHING about a city after 4 days, but I can form some initial impressions, can't I?
Soon I will be working in STL for 2 months while living with some relatives in Ferguson. So, I decided to go up there over the weekend and check it out. I didn't hit every area by any means, but I did make it around a good chunk of St. Louis. Here are some basic impressions I had, and please, anyone who lives there can feel free to correct me or tell me if I am way off base.
Like almost any town in the USA, I noticed an extreme disparity between different sections of the city (please note when I refer to the "city" or "St. Louis", that I am referering to the city + surrounding areas/towns). Some completely opposite areas were even withing a mile or half-mile of each other. For instance, Clayton/University City/Central West End. I gather Clayton is upscale, University City (from 170 to the loop) is midscale, and eastern University City/Central West End is lowscale housing. Yet, these three areas that all have an extremely different feel to them are easily within walking/biking distance of each other (if one ever chose to walk or ride ). I found that to be strange. I also saw an extreme disparity between the immediate South of the Downtown area and the immediate North of the downtown area. The downtown itself was pretty cool, except for the fact that I was approached by 4 beggers while simply walking from Washington/N. Broadway to Washington/14th. However, what city doesn't that happen in? ... I really loved the city museum. That might have been hands down the coolest museum I have ever been to. North County did not seem as bad as people make it out to be (although I only saw Ferguson for the most part), but the north part of the city and central west end (off Delmar and surrounding areas east of University City toward downtown) looks like it could be really rough. I have to say that I do love the highway system though (70, 170, 270 & 64). Also, St. Louis (from what I saw) had great drivers while I was there. I did love the Mills mall, but I love the Mills malls wherever I see them. Forst Park is also very nice. I also liked this avenue of bars and shops that was somewhere in the area of Euclid St? Driving around though, one thing struck me ... especially when looking off the highways. Maybe I am just not used to midwest housing, but why are 95% of the houses either all brick, all white, or all brick mixed with some white?? Where is the color?
Location: Moved to town. Miss 'my' woods and critters.
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St. Louis homes are mostly brick. Weather, cost, etc. back in the 'golden days' of building. You will find some colour in the homes in the south St. Louis areas and also in the north county areas. In some of the 'newer' subdivisions you will find some colour. Brick has always been a great old favorite. Sedate, classic, warmth.
The differences in certain neighborhoods goes back decades. I grew up in/near the Central West End. At that time it was mostly white collar and blue collar workers. Many rentals. Apartments above stores, etc. Lovely apartments tho'. Residents tended to locate near family and close friends. My aunts, uncles and paternal grandparents lived within walking distance of our apartment.
As the county subdivisions became popular and the interstates came into existence, people moved around much more leaving their old neighborhoods and as others moved in, changes came. Families spread around more and drive time to places of employment became less stressful. Same old housing, but many changes in income and age groups. Hope that you enjoy your short stay.St. Louis is a wonderful old city and does have so much to offer.
I live very close on the other side of the river ....... and I have always wondered why things seem like ya turn a corner and you walk into a nice neighborhood then you turn the other corner and your in a hole! ............. I honestly never really understood that either and grew up in a close by area! (am in Illinois)
I go to visit .. to the Mills to the Museums but could not live in the big city area!
The Mills is ok .. but I am not a MALL person - heck I dont claim to even like to shop! haha
The City Museum is very cool!
Now how do you pick where to live once you move? I hope if you have children you look close at the schools - there are also some very nice private schools!
Ferguson is a fine place, people on these forums get a little catty when it comes to North County. I wouldn't choose to live there forever, but if it economically made sense, then who knows.
The Central West End has a lot of yuppies in it who make lots of money. I like that area because it's one of the most walkable areas in the city. It also has access to the metrolink, which while not perfect by any means is at least something. You have to be careful there because it's a great neighborhood, but as you noticed it's very close to some very bad neighborhoods. The area adjacent to St. Louis University (called SLU by everyone in St. Louis) is a pretty lousy neighborhood. Really most of North St. Louis has some of the worst poverty in the country. Most middle class and up St. Louisians have never been there (unless they were lost or buying drugs).
Forest Park is imo one of the most beautiful urban parks in the country (at least the one's I've seen) Chicago has nothing anywhere near as beautiful, and it's so big you really forget you're in the city. I have so many wonderful memories there of the world-class zoo (it's free!) the Muny (an outdoor theater that puts on musicals in the summer), the boathouse, the Balloon races!
I remember when they opened the city museum- that is one cool place. But I also love love love the Magic House in Kirkwood.
Yep, I'd say your impressions are pretty much correct. It seems St. Louis is mostly segregated along racial/ethnic/economic lines. Sometimes two drastically different environments will meet, as you witnessed in the CWE. I don't think this is a phenomenon of just this city though; I lived in Chicago for awhile in an upscale, high rent area that happened to surround Cabrini Green. Go figure.
As for the brick, it's a native building material. My SW city home is brick. Much of the south side used to be filled with clay mines, which account for the uniform red brick.
Amy
You captured the gist of the place fairly well. Few points though for future ref...
1. Get to the Landing, and other 'special' areas [The Hill, etc.]
2. Try Lion's Choice, Steak 'n Shake [if not in your area], Imo's Pizza, etc.
3. Most importantly, get to a Blues game!
ps: that stretch of pavement that is under construction is NOT 64, but 40
pps: Welcome to Missouri - hope the transplanting from LA to StL ain't too hard on ya
One thing about St. Louis I noticed when I first moved here over 12 years ago, and it still happens today, and I know its not a great thing to say about an otherwise pretty good place to live, but if your white, you will have people completely unknown to you, never seen them before in your life, that will just start talking to you in racist ways, assuming you are racist like them. This has happened to me several times a year ever since I moved here. They usually talk in a low voice at first something about a black or Asian person ( only not in those terms) and then chuckle, looking at me for a response. I learned that its best to smile and turn away. If you express that your not like them and dont appreciate it, well, Ive only been punched once for it, but Id rather not take any chances. It is racist around St. Louis, probably not much more than any other large city, but you need to be aware of it. Besides this little problem, Ive found the overwhelming majority of people in St.Louis to be very friendly and helpful.
As for the good things. The food is great around St. Louis. lots of small restaurants with great food all over the city. If you a club hopper the landing is I think still a great place for it. You can spend the whole night just in a 6 block area and visit 20 different clubs. Soulards just south of downtown off Broadway is a club spot to. More laid back older except for on Mardi Gras in February. Oh, and if your here then, they have a Dog Parade during Mardi Gras too. so if you like dogs, its a fun event. And usually cold too.
The bummer about downtown is that it pretty much closes up at 6pm. Cant even go shopping after 6pm downtown so most head out into the county to shop. Which I think it a huge loss a revenue. Also, if I understand correctly, Wal Mart cant build in stl city limits, so depending on your view about wallyworld, you have to travel way out to get to one.
If you dont live by an interstate, it will take you forever to get to one. Im in South St. Louis and mileage wise Im only 3 miles from most of the major interstates, but with traffic and stop lights, it can take over a half hour or more just to get to the on ramp.
There are tons of things to do in the St. Louis area too. You only hit on a few, but you can always find something to do, and they dont always cost an arm or a leg, some dont cost at all. Like someone else said, the Zoo is great, and its free to enter. And dont forget we have the bowling hall of fame and the dog museum !! Bowling museum I went to on my daughters school field trip, and it was kind of interesting. Id say its one place to consider going to. The dog museum we've been planning to go to, but havent made it yet. The Art Museum is really good here, and the Muny in Forest Park. The Fox theater just off of Grand by St. Louis University has Broadway shows and concerts. The Pagent just east of University city loop has great concerts too. I dont like Riverport Theater as its outside , only in the summer and can be hot and humid , and the fact I just dont like being eaten up by mosquito's. Shame to as its when and where most concerts happen in St.Louis. Not like the good old days of the Checkerdome/Arena where it was ac or heat and concerts year round. Tour Anheuser Busch , you have to take the tour. You should also go to Grants Farm which is Free too, and owned by Anheuser Bush too. You can see the Budweiser Clydesdale's, they have a tram that takes you around to see all the animals, and they have shows, and a nice beer garden and more.
The Magic house in Kirkwood is fun, and youve already seen the city museum, but did you go underneath into the caves?? There is a lot in that place, and it was all started by a group of local artist and an empty old warehouse building.
As youve noticed in St. Louis, it will be nice for a couple blocks, then impoverished, then nice again, all butting up against each other. I often wonder why it just stops and starts like that. You would think they might eventually encroach and blend, but its just like a line is drawn in the road and no one crosses it.
Lets just say, theres a lot to do, and for the most part, people in St.Louis are really nice. In fact the best one line summary Ive ever heard about St.Louis was a couple years back I was on Metro Link ( our light rail system that only goes to casinos and the airport, and want to go to anywhere in between your lucky, but it isnt that great if you live north or south of it, where most people here live...Sorry thats pet peeve of mine, the light rail system that residents cant really use, its more for tourist) anyway, there was a group of younger adults from England who were visiting St.Louis and one said " St. Louis is a nice place, its a small town in the shape of a big city"
Its interstate 64 and US highway 40 , they changed it I think it was back in the late 80's. But whatever it is, its going to be a real mess when they close it off by Brentwood soon. So it might be best to avoid going that way if you dont have too.
One thing about St. Louis Ive learned. I like to say its pretty much all roads lead to Rome. If you learn just a couple of the major streets/ roads, you can almost always find your way around. And believe me, my X wife was from Australia and had never driven by her self anywhere in the US before we married. I showed her the main roads and within a couple months she could just about get anywhere on her own. That was over 10 years ago , and now she can go anywhere without even worrying about it. So dont be intimidated by the streets. Its really a pretty simple layout for the most part.
One thing about St. Louis I noticed when I first moved here over 12 years ago, and it still happens today, and I know its not a great thing to say about an otherwise pretty good place to live, but if your white, you will have people completely unknown to you, never seen them before in your life, that will just start talking to you in racist ways, assuming you are racist like them. This has happened to me several times a year ever since I moved here. They usually talk in a low voice at first something about a black or Asian person ( only not in those terms) and then chuckle, looking at me for a response."
I don't think that's it's uncommon for any race to turn to someone else of their race & make a comment about another race.
Because races do have differences, sometimes it's humerous. I have a very good black girlfriend who makes cracks on white people often. She isn't racist, bc I'm white & we are great buds.
BUT I would never tolerate if someone turned to me & said something totally unappropriate about another race.
I'm just saying that little jokes aren't unnecessary, but rude comments are just wrong.
And sounds like you have a very nice impression on STL oscottscotto! Good luck to you, it's a wonderful place.
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). I found that to be strange. I also saw an extreme disparity between the immediate South of the Downtown area and the immediate North of the downtown area. The downtown itself was pretty cool, except for the fact that I was approached by 4 beggers while simply walking from Washington/N. Broadway to Washington/14th. However, what city doesn't that happen in? 
... I really loved the city museum. That might have been hands down the coolest museum I have ever been to. North County did not seem as bad as people make it out to be (although I only saw Ferguson for the most part), but the north part of the city and central west end (off Delmar and surrounding areas east of University City toward downtown) looks like it could be really rough. I have to say that I do love the highway system though (70, 170, 270 & 64). Also, St. Louis (from what I saw) had great drivers while I was there. I did love the Mills mall, but I love the Mills malls wherever I see them. Forst Park is also very nice. I also liked this avenue of bars and shops that was somewhere in the area of Euclid St? Driving around though, one thing struck me ... especially when looking off the highways. Maybe I am just not used to midwest housing, but why are 95% of the houses either all brick, all white, or all brick mixed with some white?? Where is the color?
just sayin!
