City: Portland, OR

Category: Restaurants

Telephone: (503) 546-8796

Address: 738 East Burnside St.

Insider Pick:

Description: Le Pigeon inhabits a small space on busy East Burnside Street, a space that is dominated by the open kitchen, a counter around the kitchen for diners, and a number of farmhouse tables. Le Pigeon does not take reservations, and they seat comparatively few people. It’s decorated salvage style, with old chandeliers and repurposed chairs. In spite of these humble trappings, Le Pigeon is probably the most innovative restaurant in Portland today. Chef Gabriel Rucker trained in Napa, then established himself here to take advantage of the local ingredients and the atmosphere of possibility.While he does use the typical local, seasonal approach, he does not fetishize it, and even more important, he uses these elements in completely novel ways. Menus change a lot, but there are some standout regulars—for example, the peanut butter and jelly sandwich with foie gras, served as an appetizer. Duck confit, crispy sweetbreads, and tongue make regular appearances, as do interesting sides such as pickled strawberries or gazpacho with melon. Desserts frequently incorporate foie gras or bacon to accent the silky sweetness of ice cream or the airiness of a profiterole. But it would be a mistake to think that the push-the-envelope combinations, which have garnered remarkable local and national press, are what drive this restaurant. For when you get down to it, it is the perfectionist technique of Rucker that makes this place sing. Even simple dishes such as roast chicken display an authoritative touch, with crispy golden skin and perfect combinations of texture and flavor in the accompanying sides. When a chef can make the simple things as interesting as the star dishes, you know he is a master. Le Pigeon is open for dinner nightly.