Cold weather camera precautions?? (moving, vehicle, kitchen)

[ysr_racer]

Cold weather camera precautions??

I'll be using my Nikon D40x outside for a few hours, do I need to do anything special to get it ready?

How about when I'm done?


Thanks, brad

[SityData]

I have worked extensively in the arctic using many different types of cameras & formats at sub zero temps.

I have never encountered any type of problem with equipment in the cold for extended periods of time; i.e. "months' on a tripod!

I have heard of all the different types of techniques that are 'supposed' to be used to counteract the condensation that takes place upon arrival in a warmer place.

I can honestly say; I have never ever had to attempt to use such foolishness. I have never had a problem in 30 years time. I bring the camera inside and merely place it on a towel and let the condensation process run its course; OF COURSE; under no conditions would you ever remove a lens or open the back until that camera has stabilized.

My methods are based on actual experience under a variety of conditions using many types of cameras.

A mechanical camera ( that requires no batteries to function) can outlast any other type camera, for extended periods of time. - especially digital.

Despite what others may claim, I have never encountered any types of problems with my images or any of my equipment. My unique collection of whaling photographs consists of many tens of thousands of images.

That is just my opinion based on actual experience(s).

[Floyd_Davidson]

Originally Posted by ysr_racer

Cold weather camera precautions??

I'll be using my Nikon D40x outside for a few hours, do I need to do anything special to get it ready?

How about when I'm done?


Thanks, brad

There are two basic problems with operating modern cameras in cold weather: Batteries and condensation.

Batteries will act as if they have no charge when they are cold. Modern Lithium Ion batteries are pretty good though, and will work for quite a while at even -25F. Eventually the trick is to keep the battery warm. If you can keep the camera under your coat except when using it, that will work. Or, if not, the trick is to have two batteries and swap them between the camera and a warm pocket inside your coat and close to your body,

Condensation is a more serious problem because it is possible to destroy a camera by doing the wrong thing. Allowing a D40X to frost up and become water soaked with condensation will damage the camera. With the pro models, which have vastly better weather sealing, it isn't as likely... but of course the loss is also much greater if it is damaged! The same distinction is true for consumer lenses and the pro level lenses, with the same admonition that even the weather sealing on the pro lenses is not sufficient to guarantee no damage.

When a cold camera is brought into a warmer location the warmer air that comes into contact with the cold camera becomes colder, and that causes whatever moisture vapor is in the air to condense to become a liquid. Usually the inside of a home, for example, is relatively loaded with moisture and a camera that is at -20F (or even just 32F) will quickly become covered with water if not protected from condensation when it is brought into the house.

The camera can be protected by anything that prevents warm moist air from coming into contact with the cold camera. Put the camera in a camera case and leave it closed. Wrap the camera in a coat. Put it in a closed box. All will work, but none are perhaps the best. A lot of people recommend ziplock plastic bags, and they work too but are also not the best.

The best is to put cameras and lenses into a kitchen sized trash bag, and then squeeze all the air out. Place the bagged camera in a warm location that has good air circulation to help it warm up faster. It can be removed from the bag when it is about 40F or warmer. The advantage of the kitchen bag is that all the air can easily be removed (air is a good insulator and slows down the warming process, so you want it out) and such bags allow you to run your arm down inside the bag, without letting air in, to retrieve such things as memory cards. That means you do not need to deal with small slippery memory cards outside with cold fingers. (Drop even one card in the snow and lose it and the value becomes obvious.)

This topic is discussed every winter on many photography forums, and there usually are some people who simply cannot ever understand the practical aspects, never mind the physics theory involved. I haven't gone into any of the physics in the above discussion, but if the thread drifts in that direction or if anyone specifically asks, I'll be happy to provide technical details.

[Rance]

Keep a spare battery in an inside pocket if it's very cold.

[SityData]

Originally Posted by Floyd_Davidson

This topic is discussed every winter on many photography forums, and there usually are some people who simply cannot ever understand the practical aspects, never mind the physics theory involved. I haven't gone into any of the physics in the above discussion, but if the thread drifts in that direction or if anyone specifically asks, I'll be happy to provide technical details.

Please explain in detail - how a dozen different brand name cameras defied the laws of physics ??

Pentax K1000 Mamiya RB 67 Mamiya C330 Pentax 6x7 Cannon AE1 Minolta SRT 101

I guess I just got lucky ??? or your theory is flawed and wrong !!

I am speaking from 30 years experience in the field with award winning photos to illustrate my point.

I could care less what is written in forums - I've seen plenty of mistakes that have been copied & pasted

PERSONAL EXPERIENCE - Sony makes a point & shoot camera - According to the manufactures spec's that camera will not function below 32 degrees F

We used that point & shoot out on the ocean ice @ minus 40 below zero !! We posted photos that PROVED OUR POINT !!

[Barkingowl]

Floyd I completely agree with you. I've had similar things happen with my lenses in the Caribbean going from an air conditioned ship into a broiling summer day. I can't rep you but I think your advice is well thought out & presented.

[RayinAK]

At least in the interior of Alaska where the air is quite dry, I haven't had any problems with condensation, not even when bringing the camera from the outdoors into a warm vehicle, nor into my house. If very cold outside, I just keep the camera and lenses in the camera bag for an hour or two. However camera manufacturers recommend that you place the cold camera and lens in an airtight plastic bag (any plastic bag you can squeeze-out the air and seal), and then bring inside the house.

[SityData]

Yes !! that is what they - recommend!

I speak from experience in pushing the envelope as far as possible with no damage or ill effects.

[Moose Whisperer]

Placing a camera in an airtight bag when moving from extreme cold to warm is a sensible precaution. However, squeezing the air out is unnecessary - if the bag is sealed up while outside. Outside air trapped in the bag with the camera will only decrease in relative humidity (i.e. move farther away from the dewpoint) as it is warmed, thus no condensation will form. If anything, it will help to dry out the camera. As was stated before, the only benefit to removing the air in this scenario is to help speed the warming process, since the trapped air will act as an insulator.

Only if the camera is sealed up with inside, heated air will it be necessary to remove as much as possible (and then only if the air has been artificially humidified in any way).

[Moose Whisperer]

Originally Posted by SityData

I speak from experience in pushing the envelope as far as possible with no damage or ill effects.

Yes, there is allot of talk about theory here, but in real use, I've found my cameras to be quite hardy as well. I'm amazed they take as much abuse as they do - in fact, they usually stand the cold better than I do!