Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Most importantly which I neglected to go over initially, the cost to replace a battery. I'm leasing my car thru my employer, one year lease so I don't worry about it. But just another reason why I would never buy an EV. Solid 4k EV battery replacement between the parts and labor.
Replacing a battery in an EV for 4k is bargain and is equivalent to swapping out the engine and transmission in an ICE vehicle, which will cost more than that. If I had an EV with 150k miles and the body and interior were still good, investing 4k to get another 100k out of it is a no-brainer. I would trust a new battery to last a long time over a rebuilt ICE motor.
Replacing a battery in an EV for 4k is bargain and is equivalent to swapping out the engine and transmission in an ICE vehicle, which will cost more than that. If I had an EV with 150k miles and the body and interior were still good, investing 4k to get another 100k out of it is a no-brainer. I would trust a new battery to last a long time over a rebuilt ICE motor.
I disagree. Once the battery goes, you're asking for trouble. You're neglecting how much more software an EV requires. You don't see old EV's for a reason...
Replacing a battery in an EV for 4k is bargain and is equivalent to swapping out the engine and transmission in an ICE vehicle, which will cost more than that. If I had an EV with 150k miles and the body and interior were still good, investing 4k to get another 100k out of it is a no-brainer. I would trust a new battery to last a long time over a rebuilt ICE motor.
You wouldn't believe the insane prices Chevy dealers are quoting Volt owners, it's anywhere from $7k to $10k. I think the higher ones are just to make to customer go away so they won't have to mess with it.
The cheapest place I have seen is a place called Greentec, and their refurbished packs are $6k with a 3 year warranty.
Mine is under warranty through GM until 12/2022, so if it fails I hope it happens before then . Actually, the biggest issue with these seems to be faulty temp sensors, but the sensors are embedded into the battery and there's no way to replace them. Some people start getting a "battery too cold" message even if it's warm outside, and then eventually the car bricks itself.
I disagree. Once the battery goes, you're asking for trouble. You're neglecting how much more software an EV requires. You don't see old EV's for a reason...
I wouldn't necessarily say that. I known some to replace their battery and they say the car performs like new again.
More power to them but high mileage EV's have zero resell value so maybe investing more money than it's worth.
Yeah a lot of people find themselves in that situation, where a defective battery basically 'totals' the car. It just depends on the overall condition I guess, and how much you like it.
I haven't looked at the stats but I don't know one person that switched to EV in the last few years.
Up here in ND, I don’t know anyone with an EV. When it gets to -30, I’m stuck. None of my cars or trucks will start. And even my weather station and security cameras die in that kind of cold. Batteries die in the cold.
You wouldn't believe the insane prices Chevy dealers are quoting Volt owners, it's anywhere from $7k to $10k. I think the higher ones are just to make to customer go away so they won't have to mess with it.
The cheapest place I have seen is a place called Greentec, and their refurbished packs are $6k with a 3 year warranty.
Insane! the most I ever paid in my life for a gas vehicle was $1800 for my present 2004 Caravan with 154k on it, all Ive done to it since I bought it a year ago was replace fluids, plugs and wires, battery, and the water pump, about $350 total. My car insurance is about $60 every 6 months, and the registration about $38 a year, you buy a $30,000 or whatever car NOW you need comprehensive insurance, the registration fees are insane, and they are starting to tax electric vehicles because they are not paying gas taxes that maintain the roads they use. When that's in full swing you can expect fees per mile or some such as a gas tax substitute.
I watched a video of a tear down of a Tesla EV motor assy, they had the whole thing on a bench explaining every part, oh boy, you'd think it would be a simple electric motor and a gear box and it sure isnt!! they had to remove all kinds of stuff just to get into it- oil pump and cooling system, the motor which has POWERFUL magnets they had to use special techniques and all to safely dismantle, the transmission and sensors, speed sensors, wiring and controls.
The piece de resistance was when they opened up one part of it to reveal a large electronic circuit board- the kind you'd see in your tv, computer etc that when it goes bad and starts to fail it's not repairable- you have to replace the whole board per the photo attached.
Replacing a battery in an EV for 4k is bargain and is equivalent to swapping out the engine and transmission in an ICE vehicle, which will cost more than that. If I had an EV with 150k miles and the body and interior were still good, investing 4k to get another 100k out of it is a no-brainer. I would trust a new battery to last a long time over a rebuilt ICE motor.
All depends on the type of ICE, and its age, as well as how much of the motor you are replacing (short/long block). It's not very expensive for my 2012 Corolla, other than labor. Then 100k miles x $4K battery is quite expensive. My 2005 Silverado 350-Vortex motor shows over 210,000 miles on the odometer. The number of idling hours is quite high too, since I live in the interior of Alaska. The motor seems to be in perfect shape, and so the rest of the truck except for some of the body panels at the lower edges (some rust). I imagine that I can easily drive this truck another 100,000 miles without any trouble, before I get rid of it. Two years ago i had a mechanic replace the water pump, and one of the power steering hoses. Paid around $350.00. Oil filter and synthetic oil done by myself each year costs me $14.00 for a Mobil 1 filter, and $26.00 for 5 quarts of oil. Then I replace the $17.00 air filter every other year or so.
Up here in ND, I don’t know anyone with an EV. When it gets to -30, I’m stuck. None of my cars or trucks will start. And even my weather station and security cameras die in that kind of cold. Batteries die in the cold.
Same thing on my side of the pond. Our vehicles have to be winterized: block heater, battery blanket, oil pan heater, and lots of idling before driving since the windows and windshield inside the cab are covered with icy fog. I laugh at some of the people in this forum when the say that one should drive the cold vehicle slowly so that it warms faster. But you and I already know that if the ambient temperature is -30 degrees and one "drives away," there will be a few minutes of -30 degree air blown on ones face or any exposed flesh
Last edited by RayinAK; 02-26-2021 at 07:02 PM..
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
. Actually, the biggest issue with these seems to be faulty temp sensors, but the sensors are embedded into the battery and there's no way to replace them. Some people start getting a "battery too cold" message even if it's warm outside, and then eventually the car bricks itself.
Same thing on my side of the pond. Our vehicles have to be winterized: block heater, battery blanket, oil pan heater, and lots of idling before driving since the windows and windshield inside the cab are covered with icy fog. I laugh at some of the people in this forum when the say that one should drive the cold vehicle slowly so that it warms faster. But you and I already know that if the ambient temperature is -30 degrees and one "drives away," there will be a few minutes of -30 degree air blown on ones face or any exposed flesh 