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Old 08-04-2015, 01:01 PM
 
3 posts, read 2,973 times
Reputation: 15

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Thanks for the thorough reply, sunsprit. I think I bought a car that was heavily abused (there were some other signs I should have heeded, but the pre-purchase inspection "okay'ed" it). It did fine (power-wise) around town, but the clutch was always really touchy. But that's all besides the point. Your point is well, taken, I won't worry about the hp as much as I was thinking I ought to.

I think I'll be looking at Foresters, with or without the turbo.
Maybe the XV Crosstrek. Anyone have an opinion on those? Consumer Reports' review made it sound slow. I believe they used the word "sluggish". In the end, though, it got the CR recommendation. It was something of a mixed review, and they're pretty critical.
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Old 08-04-2015, 01:57 PM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,754 posts, read 58,128,451 times
Reputation: 46247
Turbo will be a benefit on a 4cyl running at high elevation.

Turbo's come with 'overhead'... can be tough on head gaskets / oil temps / engine life (if above not addressed).

For good Mtn 'pulling' Consider an A3 TDI! (or Beemer TDI). (a Diesel MAY not have the performance things you desire (speed / higher RPM). Give it a try, but DO NOT buy one, unless you are a diesel head.


An NO you should not be having clutch problems. I have many 4 cyl. that go 300 - 500k on one clutch. 200k would be reasonable.

I am NOT a fan of CVT transmission (had one in a rental car yesterday).
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Old 08-04-2015, 02:51 PM
 
Location: Edgewater, CO
531 posts, read 1,146,954 times
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I've pretty much exclusively owned lower powered, 4 cylinder cars. The only one that had any trouble was an old Chevy Celebrity that had its own problems. Anything modern can go up and down mountains all day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthRabbit View Post
I am NOT a fan of CVT transmission (had one in a rental car yesterday).
I actually really like the CVT in my Nissan Versa. The transmission is usually at the right ratio for what I'm driving. The shifter has a button to turn overdrive off that I'll push when descending the hills, and it'll keep the car right at speed. It takes some getting used to, and even then, I know people who still don't like them.
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:45 PM
 
371 posts, read 363,790 times
Reputation: 899
In the mountains, a turbo is your best friend. I once saw a magazine test in which a normally aspirated car lost 25% of its power at 10,000 feet above sea level. A comparable turbo car lost only 10%. Trust me, forced induction fours will always outperform a wheezing six, and even give a V-8 a run for its money at altitide.
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:09 PM
 
Location: Aurora, CO
8,606 posts, read 14,906,163 times
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I've got a 2011 Honda Fit Sport with a tiny 4-popper and it does just fine in the mountains. I think it's a 1.4 or 1.5L engine. The intake manifold is literally the size of a shoebox.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:24 AM
 
3,490 posts, read 6,103,619 times
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My wife drove her Rav4 to the top of Pikes Peak with a total of 4 adults riding inside it. I figure you won't be going any higher than the top of pikes peak. Of course, it does require being a good driver.
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Old 08-10-2015, 09:13 AM
 
Location: california
7,321 posts, read 6,933,408 times
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I grew up in Big Bear lake California 7000 ft elevation .
My son had a 4wd 4 cylinder Toyota truck and fallowed the big boys every where they went . I never actually needed 4wd and got every where with little trouble .
It's learning what you're vehicle is in snow, and being properly prepared with training and skill to handle the unexpected.
I had a 58 cheve rear wheel drive truck that I put the narrowest most aggressive snow tire in front ,and standard snow tires on the back. I had a second set of rims with highway tires for off the hill long distance events and used chains for the return trip if necessary.
I learned several rules
1. Though it is easy to do ,breaking traction in snow rounds off the corners of the tread thus making the tire less effective in the snow .
2. The tire and the relationship of movement require that traction work like a rack and pinion ,if you strip the gears you've thrown away the motion.
3. It is not more power that is required , it is discipline and a sense of feeling the connection between the road and the tires.
4.Mud is a completely different animal, so the same techniques do not apply.
5. In some events, if you know how to read the snow ,it is best to wait for morning, to get unstuck, while the snow/ice/slush is hardest.
6. carry rope for towing , not just your self .
7. If a plough put's a berm in front of your drive ,get rid of it before it hardens
8 I used shrink wrap material they use for boats storage and shipping ,for covering my vehicle when I'm not in it ,
a. it makes it easier to get going with out having to shovel off the car and scrape off the windshield or thaw out the door lock .
b. it keeps snoopy people from looking in your car for things.
c. It holds the heat in the car for a while longer thus making it easier to start .and have enough to go all the way to the ground all around the vehicle . With my old 58 cheve I put a rough service light and clamp on fixture under the hood by the block and it worked like a charm, every winter, no matter how cold it got.

The little trouble it is to put on and remove is nothing, compared to the hassle of not having it.
I would use the door jamb to lock the fabric in place .

One last thing , no matter how good I though I was driving in snow , I would find a parking lot that had no obstructions and was still covered in snow and do some practicing getting out of control and regaining it .
Tire wear and vehicle load change , so keeping up to date with the skill is essential.
IMO
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:35 AM
 
3,490 posts, read 6,103,619 times
Reputation: 5421
That's good advice Arleigh. While working from home I have let my driving skills weaken. Honestly, I'm not the driver I was at 20. I'm more cautious now to make up for weaker skills, but it would be good to practice taking my pickup to drive in some empty snowy lots to make sure I have the reactions ready for the next time I need them.
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Old 08-02-2016, 01:38 AM
 
1 posts, read 715 times
Reputation: 10
I'm not gonna say you can't make it up the mountain 4cyl but please if you are in a 4cyl please stay to the right lane so people can pass by the way don't use your ac or just make sure you don't over heat that engine specially during the summer

Some of the passes Colorado range from 10-12 thousand ft if you don't have a v6 get at least a 4cyl turbo

Last edited by Mike from back east; 08-02-2016 at 09:46 AM..
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Old 08-03-2016, 01:32 AM
 
Location: Blah
4,153 posts, read 9,271,823 times
Reputation: 3092
This is old thread but what the heck.

Technology has come a long ways people. In the past, a 4cl backed with an automatic transmission had issues getting out off their on way @sea level. So buying one with a manual was the only way to go. Heck, my old factory Turbocharged 2.3L (SVO) Mustang had 175 bhp. That was considered a big deal 30 years ago but it's nothing to find a naturally aspirated 4cl today with that same power. The AWD will chew up some hp, a typical automatic uses about 20%, so an AWD probably robs an additional 5% more. It's still more than the 80-100 bhp 4cls of tester-year.

Electronic fuel injection with computerized fuel curve maps are considerably more efficient than the old carburetors and previous first generation management systems.

Now with that said, we still opted for the 256 bhp 6cl model. I've driven all over the state, Mt Evens, Trail Ridge rd, Vail etc and see 175 bhp 4cl Outbacks doing fine. I just like having the extra pep pulling hills and passing large trucks on the highway.
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