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I'll give architecture to Detroit. Downtown Detroit has probably the best assortment of art deco buildings I've ever seen. Almost as if the city were frozen in time.
Unfortunately it's also a bit of a ghost town, so the other points go to LA.
I think LA's downtown had an earlier rebound than Detroit's. In the 60s, both downtowns were pretty bad but LA's really made a rebound throughout the 80s and 90s and from what I've seen recently is still getting better especially in regard to streetlife. Detroit still has quite a ways to go but it's at least rebounding.
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